DCC Decoder and sound for Athearn GP40 Help

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J

Jason K

Member
I have a Athearn HO GP-40-2.. As you have seen I am going over to DCC here very soon.Is the a drop in decoder for it and I want good sound too. Or what you ppl say would be a really good decoder and sound for it?

Thanks
Jason K
 
I am lookin to outfit my loco's with either QSI Quantum sound OR Sountraxx Tsunami sound. Thats it, nothing else. The decoders are between $80-100 a piece, but in the long run it will be worth it to have the added realism. There are digitrax decoders out there for $45, but they have nowhere near the sound and driveability quality like the other 2 I mentioned.
 


Well it is a RTR..And I don't know to much about DCC yet.But what I have seen here is go with a Soundtraxx Tsunami.Where would I get one for my Athearn GP40-2. And is it a drop in or what..

Thansk Jason
 
Well I found out they do make a drop in for the Athearn I have.But I need to know what sound and speaker sounds good and fits nice.I have a GP38-2,GP40-2,GP60 and a Dash 9.Looking for sound for them.All Athearn.

Thanks
Jason
 
It don't have a spot for the speaker.So What do I do now.2 are BB's and the other 2 are RTR's.

Thanks
Jason
 
Last edited by a moderator:
There are NO drop in sound decoders for Athearn RTRs. It is a complex install that requires hardwiring.

I suggest you find a DCC installer to do it for you.
 
Motley said:
There are NO drop in sound decoders for Athearn RTRs. It is a complex install that requires hardwiring.

I suggest you find a DCC installer to do it for you.
Click to expand...


Motley,
I do know that is no drop in sound decoders and I do know they all have to be hard wired in.What I mean is drop in DCC decoders.
Plus there is NO DCC installer anywhere around me..I am fairly good with things like that.I have a Hakko 936 with tips so I am no stranger to soldering..Just on edge about modding the frame for the speaker and etc.The only thing is take my time.Plus I have to fig. out how too take the shells off yet..lol. Just trying to get all of my ducks in a row before I go for it.

Now what co makes the drop in for the athearn models(DCC Decoders).The person I talked never said and never told me how good they are either. They make them for BB's and RTRs.He told I can pick them up for 20 bucks ea.I think that smells alittle cheap for a drop in DCC decoder.I would like to see input on this one ..

Thanks
Jason K
 
Last edited by a moderator:


OH I did some checking it is a MRC. So I am not even going to go there.Well what would you all say is a good name brand in DCC decoder..
 
Jason K said:
Motley,
I do know that is no drop in sound decoders and I do know they all have to be hard wired in.What I mean is drop in DCC decoders.
Plus there is NO DCC installer anywhere around me..I am fairly good with things like that.I have a Hakko 936 with tips so I am no stranger to soldering..Just on edge about modding the frame for the speaker and etc.The only thing is take my time.Plus I have to fig. out how too take the shells off yet..lol. Just trying to get all of my ducks in a row before I go for it.

Now what co makes the drop in for the athearn models(DCC Decoders).The person I talked never said and never told me how good they are either. They make them for BB's and RTRs.He told I can pick them up for 20 bucks ea.I think that smells alittle cheap for a drop in DCC decoder.I would like to see input on this one ..

Thanks
Jason K
Click to expand...

OK you asked for a drop in decoder and you want sound. Which is it? A NON-Sound decoder, OR a Sound Decoder. You can't have both in the same loco.

You don't even know how to take the shells off? Wow. Good luck with that.

You said you want to install a sound decoder your self. I don't care if you're the best soldering person in the world. Good luck with that, and try not to fry anything.

A good non-sound decoder is NCE.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Digitrax makes two decoders with harnesses that snap in to the Athearn BB and unretooled RTR components for a no-solder installation. The harness can be purchased separately and used with other brands of decoders including sound decoders.
 
Motley said:
OK you asked for a drop in decoder and you want sound. Which is it? A NON-Sound decoder, OR a Sound Decoder. You can't have both in the same loco.

You don't even know how to take the shells off? Wow. Good luck with that.

You said you want to install a sound decoder your self. I don't care if you're the best soldering person in the world. Good luck with that, and try not to fry anything.

A good non-sound decoder is NCE.
Click to expand...

Why do you have to be a d*ck about it? The guy is just askin questions here. Obviously he is refering to a non sound decoder in his last post, so now you wont have to stress out about it. He never said he "didnt" know how to take a shell off he just needs to see how it comes off. And as for soldering, you seem to be implying that you are far superior for some reason, and like you said, I dont care if you are the best solderer in the world....we dont care.
 
The best thing you can do is pop the shells off and look. If there is no circuit board board in there, and all you see is the top of the motor and the wiper between the motor and the trucks, then there is no drop in, and you have to use the TSU 1000 (the purple shrink wrapped one). Your BB models will definitely need this. The RTR models should have a circuit board inside that can be replaced with the AT-1000. You need the EMD 645 Turbo. You'll have to solder the pickup wires, motor leads, and any bulbs. You'll also need a speaker & baffle. Soundtraxx has a decoder finder on their site now. Athearn models are here:

http://www.soundtraxx.com/choose/step3.php?t=ho&s=Athearn

The factory board looks like what you see on page two of this installation guide:

http://www.soundtraxx.com/documents/appnotes/SW1000&SW-1500App.pdf



I have done an AT-1000 in an RTR SW-1500. I didn't do it like Soundtraxx did, but it runs and sounds good. I have not done a GP-40-2. Hard wire installs are challenging, but not impossible if you have some mechanical skills and can use a soldering iron. You have to decide if you are capable. It usually takes anywhere from a half hour to a couple of hours depending on the model, and you.

If you decide to take a swing at it, good luck.

PS: BB shells just pop off. Spread them apart where you see the lugs from the frame through the holes at the bottom sills and they should pop off. Newer RTR models usually require you to take the couplers off then slide the shell off. It isn't hard!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Motley said:
OK you asked for a drop in decoder and you want sound. Which is it? A NON-Sound decoder, OR a Sound Decoder. You can't have both in the same loco.

You don't even know how to take the shells off? Wow. Good luck with that.

You said you want to install a sound decoder your self. I don't care if you're the best soldering person in the world. Good luck with that, and try not to fry anything.

A good non-sound decoder is NCE.
Click to expand...

Look,I am not perfect as you motley I guess.I am new to this all the DCC stuff I am trying too learn and so far everyone has help me alot on this forum. All I know is the house of trains in Omaha Neb told me they drop in decoders and they sell for 20 bucks.He did not tell me if it had sound or not.He left me hanging in the air on that,becouse he was in a hurry.:mad:

I do know how work with electronics I want to college (Deere tech) too be a john deere tech on there tractors and etc.I finshed with highest honors.And one semester was on electronics and repair of electronics.But yea I mite screw up but it is called live and learn.So if I fry one oh well.Like I said I am new at this.I have too start some where you know.That is Y I joined on here everyone seems help out one another here.Everyone seems like everyone gets along here.So give me a break here ok.Yea I was confused for awhile becouse of the house of trians in omaha neb.Yea I have never took one apart yet but I have to learn some how.It is apart of being in the hobby.It all about learning new things and meeting new ppl and helping out one another in a hobby when in need.(No one is perfect..)Have a good one motley:cool:

Later
Jason
 
Last edited by a moderator:
cbarm said:
why do you have to be a d*ck about it? The guy is just askin questions here. Obviously he is refering to a non sound decoder in his last post, so now you wont have to stress out about it. He never said he "didnt" know how to take a shell off he just needs to see how it comes off. And as for soldering, you seem to be implying that you are far superior for some reason, and like you said, i dont care if you are the best solderer in the world....we dont care.
Click to expand...


thank you ................
 
Espeefan said:
The best thing you can do is pop the shells off and look. If there is no circuit board board in there, and all you see is the top of the motor and the wiper between the motor and the trucks, then there is no drop in, and you have to use the TSU 1000 (the purple shrink wrapped one). Your BB models will definitely need this. The RTR models should have a circuit board inside that can be replaced with the AT-1000. You need the EMD 645 Turbo. You'll have to solder the pickup wires, motor leads, and any bulbs. You'll also need a speaker & baffle. Soundtraxx has a decoder finder on their site now. Athearn models are here:

http://www.soundtraxx.com/choose/step3.php?t=ho&s=Athearn

The factory board looks like what you see on page two of this installation guide:

http://www.soundtraxx.com/documents/appnotes/SW1000&SW-1500App.pdf



I have done an AT-1000 in an RTR SW-1500. I didn't do it like Soundtraxx did, but it runs and sounds good. I have not done a GP-40-2. Hard wire installs are challenging, but not impossible if you have some mechanical skills and can use a soldering iron. You have to decide if you are capable. It usually takes anywhere from a half hour to a couple of hours depending on the model, and you.

If you decide to take a swing at it, good luck.

PS: BB shells just pop off. Spread them apart where you see the lugs from the frame through the holes at the bottom sills and they should pop off. Newer RTR models usually require you to take the couplers off then slide the shell off. It isn't hard!
Click to expand...


Thank you for being very helpful.. It well help me out alot
Jason K
 
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