Coupler questions...urgent

[Midnught Special]

Ok I need some help, most of my cars have the really old style "hook" couplers that are no longer used and I want to start using my older engines with same type of couplers, and some new-ish cars that a friend has ordered to help with my (our) rail road, the New Berlin Railroad have the newer style clamp couplers (magnetic?) and we want to use our current set ups with those as we cant afford to purchase every thing new again and that would mean too many spare/non-used trains that would just collect dust.


so our question is this, what type of couplers (brand, length, type, ect, ect, ect) will we need to get, most of our cars are Tyco, and AHM if that helps, I have one Riverosi engine, and one Yellowstone cabforward (in transit) that have to be converted as the cost of both units prohibits replacing them and just sidelining them...so HELP!!! im lost...I know I need the new style magnetic couplers (i think thats what they are...)

 

[Roy Buchanan]

I think you are looking for "Kadee" couplers. I suspect you'll want either No.5 or No. 148. The No.5s have a spring box separate from the coupler and the No. 148s have whisker springs and are much easier to put together. There are many different types depending upon the application, but those two are the most common. I suggest that you visit a hobby store and ask for guidance, so you don't purchase the wrong couplers. Buying in bulk is the cheapest if you have a lot of cars to do. Engines, especially steam engines use many different kinds and it is best to seek guidance from Kadee or a hobby store.

Hope this helps.

Roy

 

[Midnught Special]

thanks, if i took a car appart and snapped a pic of what I have now would that help? it does look like i could remove my couplers from some if not all with out tearing the car down

 

[LIRR Guy]

This is probably what you are looking for, they convert the hook-horn style of coupler to kadee's. http://kadee.com/htmbord/page212.htm. Here is a video that will explain the conversion. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3nYPIYA_m1M Hopethis helps you.

 

[jeffrey-wimberly]

While you can mount Kadee couplers in truck mounted coupler boxes what's the point. It's been my experience that the truck mounted couplers, be they horn-hook, knuckle, hook-n-loop, etc, they push sideways against each other when backing a train and cause derailments. I have the same type car that was used in the Youtube video and it's very easy to convert to use body mounted couplers.

Remove the trucks from the car, cut off the truck mounted coupler box. Place a Kadee #242 coupler box on the bottom of the car so it's centered on the end with the lip of the box just hanging over the end of the car. put a small nail through the center post hole of the box and push to make a mark on the bottom of the car. Remove the box. Locate the mark you made with the nail and drill a small hole there. The hole should be just smaller than the screw that will be used to anchor the coupler box. Most use a 2-56 screw for this. I use small brass wood screws because it's what I have plenty of. OK, your hole is drilled. Place a small drop of super glue gel (not the runny stuff) between the hole and the end of the car. Put the coupler box in position so the hole in the box and the car line up and put in the screw and tighten it enough to hold the box snugly against the car. Wait 15 minutes for the glue to set then remove the screw. Now put in the centering spring followed by the #5 coupler then put on the lid with the raised lip on the lid against the coupler shank. Put in the screw and tighten to hold the lid in place but not so much as it restricts the couplers movement. Put the truck back in place. That's it. Once you've done it a couple of times it's really very easy.

 

[UPBigBoy]

^^^ Good description except you forgot to mention about getting the coupler to the proper height. If they're not all at the proper height there's going to be coupler problems.

 

[jeffrey-wimberly]

^^^ Good description except you forgot to mention about getting the coupler to the proper height. If they're not all at the proper height there's going to be coupler problems.

Good point. I didn't mention it as there was no adjustment required for this car. It was dead on.

 

[Larry]

You will have to get reg. #5's & then get some w/upper or lower shanks to get the diff. heighths of cars to get the couplers to line up w/ea. other.

 

[jeffrey-wimberly]

So far I've had only three that required any height adjustment. None of those were Tyco. One Bachmann, two Model Power. Couplers were too high. Used shims made from scrap styrene to make the adjustment to bring the couplers down.