Coupler install

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Modeltrains2021

Active Member
Hi I have a kit bashed locomotive I bought and the person who made it filled in the coupler box with something how do I go about installing a coupler I will take a picture? Tia
 
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Hard to see in the pix, but it looks like the whole coupler pocket is gone. What I think Smudge is getting at: If the filled in hole is somewhat solid AND you can aim a drill bit perpendicular you might be able to do that, then tap it. Else, maybe some construction type glue or JB Weld to attach the coupler pocket to the shell. Might need some reinforcing too.

Later
 
No I don't know what he used to fill it
Try ctclibby's method of removing it if you can, otherwise you will have to use some strong adhesive to fix the coupler box, ensuring first that it will sit at the correct height. If that doesn't work let us know and we will try and find another solution.
 
Hi I have a kit bashed locomotive I bought and the person who made it filled in the coupler box with something how do I go about installing a coupler I will take a picture? Tia
I agree kind of hard to tell from the picture but height is imperative. I would start by using tape or something to attach a coupler box with coupler where it goes and see if the height is close, if it lines up either with your rolling stock or preferably using a height gauge.

If you are lucky it will line up perfectly and can be attached with a two part epoxy like JB weld. Hopefully it will not be too low. If it is too high some shims can be installed to drop it down.

I have remade numerous of freight cars with JB weld.

Dave
 
I've done a number of those atlas engines
That looks like a six axle one so the coupler box is real close to the truck You might have to use a #252 gearbox (Kadee) that one lets you use a whisker style coupler
And like stated make sure the height is ok
Can you take a couple more picts even if back a little bit so clearer and maybe one from an angle of the end
I mounted all of mine using 2-56 screws
 


I'm all most sure that's a SD24 and the trucks are really close clearance I looked at a RS12 and a SD24 both of them I was able to use a standard Kadee box however the SD24 I trimmed the back of it a little bit
RS12 on left SD24 on right
 

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Could you elaborate a little more maybe couple of photos That underframe Atlas made in Austria is made by Roco it's a very good underframe
They also had a made in Japan by Kato better yet
So must be a Atlas body which one or unknown
I know you say kit bashed must be the body not much you can change on the frame Just trying to help or not
I've kit bashed a few in my time don't remember doing any Atlas mostly Athearn No wait I did buy about a doz Atlas GP40 and swapped body for a RS3 or something I know wrong trucks but my RR
Here's one Athearn I think should be called a SD9B or something and one not so obvious a tyco shell on a Athearn drive
 

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Yea it had a high hood on then the guy added the short hood to it I belive it's all atlas I could be wrong the weird part is the front coupler is not filled with what's in the rear.
 
So he just swapped body shells ? or did he cut up the high hood and make it short hood I wonder why he filled that part in unless he split it trying to put to big a screw in it
Can you try and drill it out I think it's a #50 drill bit for 2-56 If you can then tap it and try a few different kadee coupler set ups
 


Looks good to me Wonder where he got the low nose from It all most looks like the cab is a bit wider then the body
Atlas does make a SD24 low nose now He probably did this before those came out
So if you can get the couplers installed should be a good running engine

Here's a couple picts of mine both Atlas the Cotton Belt is all Atlas The Coal Mountain is a Atlas body on a Athearn SD9 frame
Also the new Atlas SD24 low nose
 

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