Cork RB and Track installation

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My N scale friends can correct me If I'm wrong but, as a general rule, if the engine runs smoothly on DC, it's probably able to be converted to DCC. If it's an older N scale engine with a 200 mph top speed and doesn't run smoothly on DC, it's probably not worth the money and effort to convert it to DCC. Some of the early split frame motors are tough to get isolated and the engine won't run any better on DCC than it did on DC.

As far as DCC contollers, everyone has an opinion and most of them are based on personal likes and biases. The two top selling DCC controllers are the Digitrax DCS 50 starter set and the NCE Power Cab starter system. Both have advantages and disadvanteges but either will work just fine for your first DCC controller. I happen to use the DCS 50 but would have no problem recommending the Power Cab. If you belong to a club or have a club near you, find out what they are using and get that brand. It's always a good idea to stick with what the locals know so you can get help when you have problems. :)
 
Once again great info. and I will check around for local clubs as well,I am sure there is one close so I can visit to see what it is like. I 'm sure there is a ton of info. that club members would share. Thanks agin.
 
If an engine runs OK on DC, it will run better on DCC. And those 200 mph devils can be tamed with DCC.
Most split frames are easy to convert to DCC, as long as the motor brushes are not mechanically connected to each frame. If there's a wire connecting each side of the frame to the motor, just remove the link from the motor to the frame and wire your decoder in between each frame side and the motor....
The same applies for the light(s).
 


I took a trip to the LHS and much to my suprise, I seemed to have irritated most of the gentlemen by choosing N gauge. I could see that most of the guys were all HO scale enthusiasts which was fine by me as they simply just bashed my interest in N gauge. I kindly broke away from the discussion and left the LHS so thats leaves me here with you guys and ordering online which is just fine for me. Thanks guys once again for all of your help as I would have never expected a greating like I received from the LHS.
 
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The choice of scale is a very personal decision, and some folks tend to forget that. They get tunnel vision and only see one scale, theirs, as the only possible "right" answer. Thats too bad really, because we all lose in the end. In this case, you lost years of knowledge the applies to any scale. They lost a new train friend and the chance to expand their horizons.

In N scale, you will sometimes see that same reaction in folks, especially in those that have been around a while. See, N scale was for many years quite toylike and really not realistic at all. Huge flanges on gigantic rail, enormous couplers that weren't functional, two speed motors (off and light speed), grossly oversized details, and so on. It's really only been the last 10-15 years that N scale has turned into a hobbyists scale, and a lot of the old timers haven't caught on yet.
 
johnflitz3000 said:
I took a trip to the LHS and much to my suprise, I seemed to have irritated most of the gentlemen by choosing N gauge. I could see that most of the guys were all HO scale enthusiasts which was fine by me as they simply just bashed my interest in N gauge.
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Hey, c'mon. These are grown men who play with trains and hang out in hobby shops. What did you expect from a bunch of losers like that?

Seriously, aside from what PC said, the scale debate can get as rabid as sports, politics, religion, or blondes versus brunettes. Every scale has pros and cons. Run with what's right for you.
 
Beachbum said:
Hey, c'mon. These are grown men who play with trains and hang out in hobby shops. What did you expect from a bunch of losers like that?

Seriously, aside from what PC said, the scale debate can get as rabid as sports, politics, religion, or blondes versus brunettes. Every scale has pros and cons. Run with what's right for you.
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LOL,yea that was kind of funny at the LHS.I really don't care what they think after all knowone there offered to buy me anything,LOL.
 
Well i finally got a layout running and I purchased a bachman dcc controler and it dosn't work but the the controler that came with the set dose work. I have no clue as to why but when i power up the dcc controller it just makes a high pitched squeeling noise so if any of you guys might have a clue as to what the problem could be I'm all ears. Thanks and I hope it's a simple fix. LOL
 
Never mind I figured it out number 10 on the controller is the only one that allows analog. I have no idea why it still makes a squeeling noise while the throttle is being advanced and then it just stops. Thanks anyway though.

Now that I have the trains running I ran into another small problem that is kind of strange. I noticed that the steamengine that came with the yard boss set wants to derail on the turnouts only. The engine seems to run great everywhere else but there, I also noticed that when I run my amtrak engine it handles the turnouts just fine. that is a little strange but i'm sure there must be a reason for that.Any info would be great,thanks.
 
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Derailing on turnouts is usually caused by one or more of the following:

wheels out of gauge: check with an NMRA gauge, adjust as needed. Sometimes out of gauge wheels will run fine on track but derail at the turnouts.

turnout rails out of gauge: also check with NMRA gauge. Harder to adjust the track, but it can be done. Probably not your problem because another loco runs through the turnout just fine.

guard rails of turnout are too close to rails: a narrow gap between the guard and running rails can pinch a wheel, causing is to raise up over the railhead. Check by running the loco very slowly through the turnout to see where it derails.

not enough depth in turnout frog: larger flanged wheels can be lifted off the rail if the flange depth through the frog is too shallow. A very fine, narrow file can remove enough material to get the loco through the turnout without derailing.

These are the most common causes of derailing at turnouts. Hope this helps.

Darrell, quiet...for now
 


Being new at this I have no idea what makes them out of gauge or what the fix would even be. I will have to get one of those gauges and see. Thankyou for the info.
 
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