Code 83 track compatibility

[Diesel-Electric]

Hello People,


I'm kinda stuck at the moment, if to buy some code 83 ME flex track or Peco North American flex track.

All my current track is Atlas code 83 sectional track, which one is more compatible with Atlas track? ME or Peco?

Also, if You recommend a one or the other to work with the Atlas track, which brand of rail joiners should I get to join the two different brands?


Thanks in advance!

 

[D&J RailRoad]

I have Atlas code 83 wood tie and concrete tie track on the D&J Railroad. I don't think there would be a problem mixing different manufacturer track of the same code. You would need a conversion track when going from one code size to another, not for the gauge but for the height of the rail.

 

[notabob]

The biggest issue you'll run into between different manufacturers' track is thickness of the sleepers. Joining them together can result in one being higher than the other. This will force you to have to shim the track with thinner sleepers to make sure the rails are at the same height. Rail profile can be slightly different as well, with some having thicker feet than others. Also, the width of the rail head can be different from one manufacturer to another. These are minor issues, as ultimately the height of the rail and track width remain the same. The worst you'll have to do is play with different rail joiners to make sure they fit both sections. Keep in mind, that such connections can sometimes be loose, and it's always a good idea to solder these joints to assure good conductivity and eliminate any possible motion.

On my layout I'm using Peco flex and regular turnouts joined to Walthers curved turnouts & crossovers without issues. Walthers sleepers are thinner than Peco, requiring a bit of shimming. Peco rail profile is also thinner, so their joiners won't fit onto Walthers track, however Walthers joiners work fine on Peco. In a single late-night experiment Peco track also seemed to join to Atlas pretty well using Atlas joiners - sleeper height was practically identical, although Atlast track is a bit thicker.

 

[Selector]

Use a joiner to mate any of them together, pry up the low rail end so that it's top matches, and then solder the joiner. Do a feeder at the same time.

Then, when you ballast, carefully adjust the depth of the ballast along the low side of the join so that you don't get an obvious hump, or see the engine's nose slump just after the height-matching join. IOW, make a 12" transition using the ballast grains and some tape or cardstock shims if you wish.

 

[Diesel-Electric]

Hello there!


Thank for the input people. Based especially on notabob's post and looking around the web for further info and 2nd opinions, I finally decided to get Peco code 83 (N American style) flex track and Atlas rail joiners to go with it.

Also, this is the first time I'm gonna work with flex track, I've heard that most flex track have one rail that slides and the other not. Is it true that if one should curve the track, the sliding rail should be in the inside of the curve?

Also, is there any other words of caution when using flex track?


Thanks again!

 

[notabob]

Hello there!


Also, this is the first time I'm gonna work with flex track, I've heard that most flex track have one rail that slides and the other not. Is it true that if one should curve the track, the sliding rail should be in the inside of the curve?

Also, is there any other words of caution when using flex track?

Thanks again!

Unlike some other manufacturers of flex track, Peco track's design enables it to flex in either direction. Both rails slide. In general, I've been pretty satisfied with Peco - easy to lay down, not as stiff as some others, thinner rail profile... If I were you, I'd stick to Peco joiners when joining Peco to Peco. Peco joiners are much smaller profile and are less visible than Atlas. They also will fit more snugly. Only when joining Peco to other manufacturer's track or turnouts would I use that manufacturer's joiner.

The big word of caution beyond shimming to line up heights of different track manufacturers has to do with joining flex track on a curve. Try to avoid doing it if you can. If you can't - be sure to join and solder the two sections of flex track BEFORE laying it down, while they are both still straight. Once the joint is soldered and secure, you can then curve and glue down the flextrack as required.

 

[gregamer]

I'll second using Peco flex. Both rails slide, making it real easy to meet up with any joint. I'd stick with the Peco joiners with Peco track, especially to the Peco turnouts because they slide right into the spike head detail and negate the need to trim a tie or two to get the joiners to fit. Nice track.


Greg Amer
The Industrial Lead
gregamer.com

 

[Diesel-Electric]

Hello there!

notabob said:

Try to avoid doing it if you can. If you can't - be sure to join and solder the two sections of flex track BEFORE laying it down, while they are both still straight. Once the joint is soldered and secure, you can then curve and glue down the flex track as required.

Yes, in my track plan, the flex tracks will be all on straight sections, some will have a very slight curve just to align up. On my sharper curves I'll be using the Atlas 24" sectional track I have.

I've heard this been said elsewhere about using flex track on curves, so yes, I'm avoiding doing so.


Thanks again!

 

[Diesel-Electric]

Nailing down track directly to wood? And another Peco code 83 track question.......

Hello there,

Since this is still relating to track in general, I thought rather not start a new thread.

But first an update: I had to pull dismantle my first ever (4'4''x 6') layout due to space needed for more storage .

This was the layout,

Link: http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25701


I couldn't go beyond laying track and running trains due to various reasons, including a spell of loosing interest, therefore it remained like that for the duration it was around. I did however run trains now and then and did have a good time doing so.

That said, I'm starting a new shelf layout in due time, got permission from the wife and mother (mum's house ) to drill the wall etc etc.......

The shelves will consist of 10" deep sections and some narrow 4" sections. The shelves will be plain wood planks fixed on to metal L brackets which will be fixed on to the wall.

This layout will be strictly for running trains, no scenery (may add in the future, but don't think so) due to financial restrains, time etc etc.....

Of course there will be light signals, a basic building or two and will consist of a single main line with a tiny two track yard and one spur (as planned).

Now about the track:

As I have no intention whatsoever about scenery, I don't plan to ballast the track and would just prefer to nail down the track directly on to the wood and drill holes for the feeder wires from a buss wire.

Is it alright to do so? Would you guys advice against it? Advice would be really appreciated .

BTW, I also want to add a Peco code 83 #5 RH turn out, is it true that the points are spring loaded and therefore the points can be moved into place with your finger without the need for a switch machine?


Thanks in advance!

 

[bnsf971]

It'll be quieter if the tack is mounted on some cork or foam roadbed. This will benefit you, as less noise should equal more tran tolerance from the other residents of the house. It will also look a little better, also benefitting further expansion on your part.

Hello there,

Since this is still relating to track in general, I thought rather not start a new thread.

But first an update: I had to pull dismantle my first ever (4'4''x 6') layout due to space needed for more storage .

This was the layout,

Link: http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25701


I couldn't go beyond laying track and running trains due to various reasons, including a spell of loosing interest, therefore it remained like that for the duration it was around. I did however run trains now and then and did have a good time doing so.

That said, I'm starting a new shelf layout in due time, got permission from the wife and mother (mum's house ) to drill the wall etc etc.......

The shelves will consist of 10" deep sections and some narrow 4" sections. The shelves will be plain wood planks fixed on to metal L brackets which will be fixed on to the wall.

This layout will be strictly for running trains, no scenery (may add in the future, but don't think so) due to financial restrains, time etc etc.....

Of course there will be light signals, a basic building or two and will consist of a single main line with a tiny two track yard and one spur (as planned).

Now about the track:

As I have no intention whatsoever about scenery, I don't plan to ballast the track and would just prefer to nail down the track directly on to the wood and drill holes for the feeder wires from a buss wire.

Is it alright to do so? Would you guys advice against it? Advice would be really appreciated .

BTW, I also want to add a Peco code 83 #5 RH turn out, is it true that the points are spring loaded and therefore the points can be moved into place with your finger without the need for a switch machine?


Thanks in advance!

 

[Selector]

Peco Streamline series, Code 83 turnouts, are definitely the kind with an 'over-center- spring, and while they can easily be moved via a fingertip, I prefer to use a thin metal skewer tip or a bamboo skewer tip in the tiny hole at the ends of the throwbars.

Code rail is code rail heightwise, but the rail cross-sections vary at the wide top part, the rail head, and the bases also vary. Peco makes their own joiners, Atlas markets universal joiners and adaptor joiners. I found the adaptor joiners to be good value, but boy do they require work to get them on without splitting your fingertips. You must us needle files to thin the web and bevel the foot to get them to slide on with comparative ease and leavey your skin unpierced your your nails unlifted.

Also, the tie heights vary between brands. While the rail heights are virtually identical, it is the thickness of the ties between brands that causes the mismatch at the top surfaces of the rail heads.

 

[Diesel-Electric]

Hello there!


Thanks for the information people.

bnsf971, thanks, I'll be using a road bed then!

Thank you Selector for the info on the Peco turn out.