Code 70 and Code 55 track

[ICG/SOU]

Does anyone here use it? Is it easy to work with? Are there any pitfalls to avoid?

My first layouts (one as a kid, one now being redone) were with Code 100. I'd like to go to Code 83, but have found that one of the prototypes I'm working on had 85 lb rail on their old mainline. I looked and it seems that Micro Engineering is where it's at for the smaller codes, but have no experience with their track.

Thanks in advance.

 

[zoegraf]

Does anyone here use it? Is it easy to work with? Are there any pitfalls to avoid?

My first layouts (one as a kid, one now being redone) were with Code 100. I'd like to go to Code 83, but have found that one of the prototypes I'm working on had 85 lb rail on their old mainline. I looked and it seems that Micro Engineering is where it's at for the smaller codes, but have no experience with their track.

Thanks in advance.

I use code 70 on my mainline and 55 on my sidings. No problems; not even with my older brass locos. Micro Engineering track is a little stiff for my liking, but it is great track. With a little practice and probably some pointers/info on this forum, you will lay it well. I suggest buying some used ME track at a hobby show and practice making curves with it with templates.
Now with code 40, you may have a problem with older wheels that have deeper flanges especially if it is hand spiked.
Here is a shot of code 55 hand laid on my layout.

 

[ICG/SOU]

That's beautiful looking work.

All my rolling stock and locomotives have metal wheelsets with RP25 contour. Only a hand full are narrow tread/semi-scale.

Did you cut your track in 39' lengths (after laying)? I'd like to use joint bars and such on mine when the time comes.

 

[dave1905]

I use codes 70 and 55 for my entire railroad. Of course it is 99% handlaid.

 

[Shark Nose]

Here is a shot of code 55 hand laid on my layout.

Sorry for being off topic, but dude, that grass is incredible! How did you do it? All the little tufts!

 

[zoegraf]

Sorry for being off topic, but dude, that grass is incredible! How did you do it? All the little tufts!

Hi,

I did it by hand. When the diluted white glue in the ballast becomes sticky, I place some static grass between the ties. Later, when the ballast is dry enough (holding in place), but not completely dry, I place a vacuum hose over the track about an inch and a half so not to vacuum up the ballast. I tape tooth pics around the vacuum nozzle to prevent the vacuum getting sucked down onto the track by accident, which will suck up chunks of ballast. The vacuuming lifts up the static grass.

 

[fast_ian]

.....The vacuuming lifts up the static grass.

Wow! *Great* tip - Thanks for sharing! That's definitely a "keeper".

I keep looking at the Noch static applicator thing, but damn - $250 [I've looked at a couple of the home made versions, but they seem a little "dodgy" to me.....]

I love the vacuum idea - Thanks again,
Cheers,
Ian

 

[zoegraf]

That's beautiful looking work.

All my rolling stock and locomotives have metal wheelsets with RP25 contour. Only a hand full are narrow tread/semi-scale.

Did you cut your track in 39' lengths (after laying)? I'd like to use joint bars and such on mine when the time comes.

I don't cut my track at those lengths, but like you, want to get some joint bars. A good portion of the track on my layout is not visible so I don't bother.