calidus_dolium
New Member
Hey all,
First post here. I'm putting up a track on the ceiling that's running a full loop in one room, going through the wall and a full loop into the other room. About 100ft of track in all and 2 wyes.
The levelness is all within about 0.10 degrees around the whole shabang.
I used peco code 83 track and #6 wyes (HO scale).
All turns are banked by 3 degrees. The transition to banked is just what the peco code 83 flex track will allow naturally and it rises to the 3 degrees, which I will glue in situ. I used my mitutoyo 3600 inclinometer for leveling it all out.
Both room loops have an AR1 on it along with separate wire runners to keep the amps/volts normalized through the loop(s).
Here's my question, I want to use the wyes to just manually flip as the train passes. Thatll allow the train to run the loops in both directions. My question is if there's anything I need to do to the wyes for the manual switching to not be an issue over time or anything I need to know? I know the wyes snap into place once they switch, but will that mechanism might wear out? I dont really have the ability to add electronic switches to the flippers unfortunately. My young kids are controlling the speed and sounds with a digitrax zephyr, but controlling the switch would likely have 100 deraillings daily. I also want to let them use any of my HO scale trains on this track they want, so I want to make sure the heavier brass ones won't derail and meet their heads....
Thank you in advance!
First post here. I'm putting up a track on the ceiling that's running a full loop in one room, going through the wall and a full loop into the other room. About 100ft of track in all and 2 wyes.
The levelness is all within about 0.10 degrees around the whole shabang.
I used peco code 83 track and #6 wyes (HO scale).
All turns are banked by 3 degrees. The transition to banked is just what the peco code 83 flex track will allow naturally and it rises to the 3 degrees, which I will glue in situ. I used my mitutoyo 3600 inclinometer for leveling it all out.
Both room loops have an AR1 on it along with separate wire runners to keep the amps/volts normalized through the loop(s).
Here's my question, I want to use the wyes to just manually flip as the train passes. Thatll allow the train to run the loops in both directions. My question is if there's anything I need to do to the wyes for the manual switching to not be an issue over time or anything I need to know? I know the wyes snap into place once they switch, but will that mechanism might wear out? I dont really have the ability to add electronic switches to the flippers unfortunately. My young kids are controlling the speed and sounds with a digitrax zephyr, but controlling the switch would likely have 100 deraillings daily. I also want to let them use any of my HO scale trains on this track they want, so I want to make sure the heavier brass ones won't derail and meet their heads....
Thank you in advance!
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