Can't get Tix solder to work

[astroboy]

This isn't strictly a wiring issue, but:

Up front, I am the World's Worst Solderer, bar none. Still, I usually manage to get things to stick together and conduct electricity. Today, I tried some Tix, a low temperature (275°) solder that I'd like to use for a metal locomotive kit. Well, it wouldn't stick even to itself, let alone anything else. I painted all surfaces with Tix flux first, and used a 15-watt iron. I tried brass-to-pewter (on the third try, I melted the pewter!), brass-to-brass, and copper wire to nickle silver track. None of the joints held. In a couple of cases, the solder stuck to the surfaces, but came apart from itself. Not hot enough, perhaps? Pewter melts at 338-446°, so how could the Tix not be hot enough?

I hate to solder. Anybody have any ideas?

Thanks,
Jeff

 

[tootnkumin]

I doubt a 15w iron can get hot enough to solder wire or wire to rail. The trick to soldering is to get the metal to be soldered hot enough that the solder will melt onto it rather than the tip of the iron, although in practice it doesn't look like that's what you're doing. It takes a bit of practice to get both the joint and the solder to a matched heat so that you're not spending too much time on the joint and overheating it. I'm not familiar with Tix, but usually low temp solders are high in lead, whereas the ones for electrical joints, higher in tin which is better for conductivity.

As far as soldering Pewter and especially trying to solder brass to it, Pewter itself takes a high degree of skill as you have found out because of it's very low melting point, brass requires a much higher temperature which could make such a joint near impossible.

 

[marriedshades]

You will find differnt metals types have differt densities. so they melt different and you can also get a side problem at a later date of corrosion. from differt metals not bonding right certain soders are made to slow this i would talk to your local radio shack about getting better sodler for you project. and see if they know of someone to show you a few tricks or see if there any class around cheap

 

[Iron Horseman]

Today, I tried some Tix, a low temperature (275°) solder that I'd like to use for a metal locomotive kit.

Interesting. The only thing I've used low melting point solder for is adding weight to freight cars. Never thought of actually using it for soldering.

Well, it wouldn't stick even to itself, let alone anything else. I painted all surfaces with Tix flux first, and used a 15-watt iron. I tried brass-to-pewter (on the third try, I melted the pewter!), brass-to-brass, and copper wire to nickle silver track. None of the joints held. In a couple of cases, the solder stuck to the surfaces, but came apart from itself. Not hot enough, perhaps? Pewter melts at 338-446°, so how could the Tix not be hot enough?

If it flowed (is that even a word?) onto the rail or wire then it was hot enough. Seems like there is something else going on preventing it from sticking. Perhaps too much flux. Is the flux burning off or dissolving away? Have you tried a simple copper wire to copper wire joint?

The other day I tried to solder a resistor to the internal lighting tabs of a Walther's passenger car. Got it hot enough (it was red hot) but the solder wouldn't stick .... oh, Silly me, they are stainless steel, so I crimped instead.

 

[fire5506]

A couple of things.

1. Make sure you are using flux and not Tix anti-flux, which is made to keep solder from sticking in that area.

2. DO NOT use Tix flux on electrical connections as it is an acid flux. Tix flux needs to be washed off or it will keep eating at what was soldered. Electrical connections made with Tix Flux will eventually fail from the acid.

3. Not knowing the size of the items being soldered I cannot comment on what wattage iron to use, but a 15 watt soldering iron is made for light electrical soldering, as in soldering printed circuit boards. I use a 50 watt adjustable iron.

Richard

 

[astroboy]

Thanks, all, for the input. I tried again today, and got a good joint between two pieces of thin brass wire, and the same brass wire and pewter. Still looked messy, though.

Iron Horseman: It sure seemed like it was flowing yesterday.

Richard and Iron Horseman: I touched the iron to the fluxed surfaces before I tried to solder, and it sizzled. Would there still be enough of it there to compromise, say, a feeder wire-to-track connection? I'm glad you mentioned that, Richard, as I thought I could at least use the Tix for that purpose.

Jeff