Building the Pinnacle Creek Mining & Timber Co. RR

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Actually what I've just said in those posts is baloney as well, so disregard. Those jumpers would actually cause a direct short circuit if there's no gaps near the frog.
 
I think Logger Mike is correct, the frog needs to be isolated from all the other tracks and supplied with power independently, either by a manual power routing toggle switch or a point motor that has that capability built in.
 
Jim, I'll see if I can find a diagram for wiring the frog for DC....I also think a Frog Juicer may work here also....I'm using them on my DCC System for powering my Dual Gauge Turnout Frogs


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Logger Mike, Anything would be useful at this point. I can still follow most diagrams. About my metal frog see ME's advert.

Toot, The metal frog is insulated from all other metal track parts. ME advertises DCC compatible, which I take to mean nothing more to do. DC is the real issue and of course the DPDT switch.

Thanks guys, I'm sure more than me looking in here are finding this informative. Jim:)
 
Sorry for "derailing" you there Jim. DCC compatible eh, a bit like "DCC Ready", more to it than meets the eye. i.e. provided you do this or that. It's the metal frog that must change polarity in line with the turnouts position, so that wire from the frog would connect to whatever device is used to do that. Connecting it to the points would just short things out too.

I think powered frogs are the best option, even for long wheelbase locos, there are a number of insulfrog turnouts on the club layouts (both of them) where even 6 wheel pickup locos stall.
 
Here's my understanding:
Based on your description, the frog currently has no power at all. Therefore, as long as your engine wheelbase is greater than the length of the frog, you should be fine. As long as at least 2 wheels are not on the frog the engine should have power. It's only when the frog is the sole contact wheel to rail that the problem exists. You just need power drops on both sides of the frog. Essentially before the points to power the outside rails and after the frog for the inside rails.

I just found http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches_ME_BK.htm that should clear up the situation.
 
Walt, Your link didn't work, but I found the site anyway. I actually saw this site 10 years ago. Made no sense then and I'm worse off now. I'm sorry I'm such dummy, but are you saying that in DC your directions are what I should do? Thanks, Jim:confused:
 
Thanks Sherrel, This is the same site Walt sent me to. I will study this and wire my extra turnout and see if it works. Thanks for coming over last week it was good seeing you again. Jim CM&T:)
 


Meanwhile after buying over 80 lbs. of Scultamold my luck is still lousy. I find myself 22" short of what I needed! Three layouts and I come up a bit short. I've ordered a couple of three pound bags and they arrived Saturday.

IMG_8413_zps4hfrtht7.jpg


So instead of studying my wiring I finished off the fascia a couple of minutes ago. So now I'm stuck with five plus lbs. of Sculptamold. Jim:eek:

IMG_8415_zps7jdg6coe.jpg
 
Let's try this:

IMG_8416_zps4rfyseg1.jpg


QUESTION: If the frog has wires soldered to the points will a DC loco go through the turnout, regardless of which way the points are aligned, without stopping? I do not care if this wiring is old fashioned, out of date, not recommended anymore, etc. Will a loco go through? Yes or no. Thanks, Jim:)
 
No .. There will be a direct short because each stock rail is connected to its respective point rail.
For DC ... You need a switch, SPST, as shown) in the diagram I sent you.
 
I agree (quick some-one get the guillotine), No. What's causing the problem with this turnout for using the tips of the point rails to act as a polarity switch, is those soldered connectors. They are making every piece of track in it, apart from the frog, permanently live. So what's happening in your pic, is that that wire is simply picking up power from one side and transferring it through the frog to the other side, once again a direct short. The only way to make the point rails act as switch is to cut or remove those connecting bits. Referring to the picture, with the point rail closed against the straight through track, the wire connected to it is supplying like polarised power to the frog. The diverging track's point, being open, is not, but because it is connected by it's wire from the frog, is now powered up with the same polarity, up to the cut next to the frog (just visible on top of the tie).

Changing the point to the diverging track has the desired effect for that.

The drawback with this point is the lack of a positive method of ensuring firm contact of the point ends with their respective power supplying stock rail and a clean electrical contact.
 
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If you've been watching my efforts you've no doubt noticed several revisions to get it right, The big disadvantage with the method I have outlined is the closeness together of a point rail and a stock rail with opposite polarities, would only require a touch of the back of wheel against the point rail to cause a short. With this type of turnout, only the independent toggle switch and powering it and the turnout's track's from a power bus is going to suffice.
 


Dan, Not happening. Because I can't solve this wiring riddle I can't even finish this one. If I could figure this out I would have only about an hour's work to finish this layout. Jim:confused:
 
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