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I've been adding some Delaware and Hudson stuff to my layout. I'm not modeling anything in particular from the D & H line. I have the Like-Like Proto 2000 PA1 that some of you have seen in another thread.
I chose the 85ft IHC passenger cars with the blue roofs. I can't find any proof in all of my research that shows blue roofs on prototype D & H passenger cars, but I like how they look. I did add a Walthers 85ft Budd dome coach that has the prototypical paint scheme that D & H used on the 2 dome cars they leased or borrowed from the Canadian Pacific RR. They also had 2 dome cars from Amtrak after they returned the CP dome cars.
This pic shows the full consist with 8 cars and the PA.
The Walthers web site had this new D & H Jordan Spreader on sale, so I got this in the mail today. It's a Walthers Proto. All of the blades deploy out to the sides.
I got a good deal on this new Bachmann Silver series D & H 250 ton crane and boom tender, so I couldn't pass it up.
I'm still tuning rolling stock, adding weight and changing couplers as needed. Can't wait to start doing landscaping.
Do any of you have any D & H trains on your layout?
A few days ago I noticed a slightly uneven transition between two tables that I bolted together last year. It wasn't noticeable with 40 and 50ft freight cars, but when I ran the 85ft Budd passenger cars across that spot, it really stood out. It caused several passenger cars to become uncoupled. So I pulled up the track in that section, then used shims to raise the low side. It's all even now. I finished it this afternoon and tested it with a passenger train.
I made a video tonight that shows my newest and final track expansion project. The new L shaped yard allows me to store 7 long trains that are up to 12ft long.
Here's a link to my video of a Delaware and Hudson PA1 Passenger train, led by my Walthers Proto 2000 PA1 (yes, I have a Life-Like P2k PA1 and a Walthers P2k PA1. They are very similar, with only slight differences)
This video shows my Union Pacific DC/DCC Walthers Proto 2000 F7A and F7B set pulling a bunch of center flow and covered hoppers. I didn't use any of the horn or bell sounds in the video, but it has them.
For those who don't know, I'm using an MRC Tech 6 Sound Controller 2.0 on my DC layout, as well as an MRC Railpower 1370.
I've spent some time working on my layout last month. I finally figured out the "best" locations for all of my buildings, so I got busy painting the roads. I mixed my own color of gray, using white and black paint that I had on hand. I still have to paint the stripes and lines on the roads and parking lots, but at least the roads are painted and the 3x5 cards are gone. I have 4 buildings in my downtown area that need sidewalks added, but I dont know when I'll get around to that. This winter I hope to build and finish the waterfront scene and the valley, plus add all the landscaping and trees. I have 2 buildings from my dad's collection that I haven't assembled yet, which are labeled as a factory and office. My goal is to see if they fit near the Burlington Northern Streator depot. It feels great to finally make some progress on my layout again. Its been a crazy busy summer.
I also cut and attached plexiglass around much of my layout. Its .080" thick acrylic sheet. I cut it 4" tall x 4ft long. I have 3 more pieces to attach, but those areas are shorter than 4ft.
Here are a few pics to show my roads...
I'll be making a video soon, and I'll try to add more pics tomorrow.
No pics yet. Cutting down trees for firewood has been my main focus. We never have 85 degrees in October in northern New York, but we did today. So I have to take advantage of this weather and keep working on firewood. It's gotta be 30 degrees above normal. I'm working alone, so it takes a lot longer to get this stuff done.
Very colorful, and the Alco looks like it is moving even when standing still. My Zephyr E-units and their passenger cars look pretty plain, except when the "stainless steel" E's are pulling the Empire Builder or the North Coast Limited from Chicago to Minneapolis in the 1940's and '50's. But the Zephyrs are what I rode as a kid.
I'm using a new cell phone now, and I can't figure out how to make the whole picture clear. I haven't found a setting that doesn't blur the background. It's a little frustrating when I want the whole picture to be clear.
You will have to adjust the aperture to increase depth of field. Closing down the aperture to a smaller opening (digitally) is what increases background focus. But there is a trade-off; it also reduces the amount of light entering the lens. You have to find a compromise that works. On some phones it is not possible to adjust the f stop.
There is also a technique called photo stacking. Multiple photos are taken at progressively smaller apertures and then combined in a photo editor that can do this. Many mid-level digital cameras are capable of this. I don't know if there are any phones that will do it. It wouldn't surprise me to find at least a few out there that can do this, but you will have to search for a setting.
You will have to adjust the aperture to increase depth of field. Closing down the aperture to a smaller opening (digitally) is what increases background focus. But there is a trade-off; it also reduces the amount of light entering the lens. You have to find a compromise that works. On some phones it is not possible to adjust the f stop.
There is also a technique called photo stacking. Multiple photos are taken at progressively smaller apertures and then combined in a photo editor that can do this. Many mid-level digital cameras are capable of this. I don't know if there are any phones that will do it. It wouldn't surprise me to find at least a few out there that can do this, but you will have to search for a setting.
When drilling the holes, I left the clear plastic wrap and white plastic wrap on the plexi (clear on one side, white on the opposite side). Start with a real small bit and work your way up, going every other drill bit size, up to the size you need. I attached my plexi with #8 stainless steel screws, just tight enough that the plexi doesn't wiggle on the screws. Drill slowly and with light pressure. My first hole was only a 3/32 bit, then 1/8, 5/32, and then I think I finished with a 11/64 bit so the screw fell through the hole. If you make too big a jump in drill bit size, you can feel the bit grab the plexi and want to cut in too fast and crack the hole. Its tedious, but plexi isn't cheap. My peace of mind with the plexi on, is priceless.
