Building a room for only trains and other hobbies

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homersimpsonlikestrains

homersimpsonlikestrains

Active Member
I have decided that I want to build a dedicated room for my hobbies such as a train layout. This will be built in my backyard.

The room I plan to build would be around 10ft x 8ft x 7ft tall. The foundation would comprise of a wooden frame on top of concrete blocks. That is all I know about building the foundation for the room.

Can anybody guide me with tips on how to make the flooring and how do I protect the outside walls from the rain? Should I add insulation to the walls? I think I will use shingles for the roof. And I want to have two glass sliding doors on opposite walls to let sunlight in. And there will be electrical sockets too.

This will be my first time building a room. It’s like a garden shed concept but dedicated to my hobbies only.
 
I found this photo on google:
It says the outside walls are called “channel siding”. Is that available at Home Depot? And then for the roof it says “sheathing”? Is that regular plywood? And why do I have to install felt underneath the shingles?

A3CDF57F-A8AA-454A-8407-5495DC19EF3B.png
 
Have you considered getting a sea can (sea shipping container)? Prior to COVID-19, you could get a good sized one, still protecting from the elements, for a couple of thousand dollars. I hear they've become scarce on the open market since then, but....might be worth 15 minutes of your time to do some research. You can line them with $300 worth of insulation foam, get it wired, put in overhead lights, a couple of wall sockets (one for dehumidifier/heater), and you'd be in business. Just a thought.

For a foundation, six patio blocks, or even a bunch of clean 'crush' that they use as roadbed before paving. (Does it have to be the dimensions you cite above?)

I partitioned our double-wide garage and took 24 X 9. Framed, poly'd, insulated, drywalled, painted, and wired, it was about $3K.
 


Selector said:
Have you considered getting a sea can (sea shipping container)? Prior to COVID-19, you could get a good sized one, still protecting from the elements, for a couple of thousand dollars. I hear they've become scarce on the open market since then, but....might be worth 15 minutes of your time to do some research. You can line them with $300 worth of insulation foam, get it wired, put in overhead lights, a couple of wall sockets (one for dehumidifier/heater), and you'd be in business. Just a thought.

For a foundation, six patio blocks, or even a bunch of clean 'crush' that they use as roadbed before paving. (Does it have to be the dimensions you cite above?)

I partitioned our double-wide garage and took 24 X 9. Framed, poly'd, insulated, drywalled, painted, and wired, it was about $3K.
Click to expand...
Thanks but I like building things and there’s no way a shipping container would fit through my driveway.

This photo is sort of what I am aiming for. It looks east to build. Would I screw plywood sheets to the outside frame? And then I add insulation between the studs? And then what do I cover the insulated walls with?

5B4AB171-3897-4534-8FA4-93E2EAA07F57.jpeg
 
Based on your questions I may suggest purchasing a pre built.

Selector - I was going to suggest a shipping container. We have a 20' x 8' x 8' is rodent proof cost $1100 in 2019, probably way more today.

You may check with local zoning or association to make sure it is permissible.

I would use 3/4" plywood floor with treated lumber as joists, probably 2 x 6

Paint the exterior or use vinyl or other product weatherproofed

May want to add vents in the gables or eves

The felt underlayment for your shingles will prolong their life and is not expensive

You can use plywood, oxboard, oriented strand board (OSB), waferboard, many products as sheathing, usually 1/2" or 5/8"

I would insulate the ceiling especially and walls, from both cold and heat.

You may want something bigger, my train is in a 11' x 12' room and I wish it was bigger

Your example you just posted nails are usually code for nailing on siding but some use screws
 
Yes, sheeting (exterior grade) 3/8" ply should do, and yes they go on the outside of the studs. Yes, insulate between the studs. Wire first! You need heat, lights, and power for the trains.

Then, with the wires in place, place poly over everything except door/window. Try not to slice it and leave holes if you can. You'll have to make some to install at least one wall socket and a light switch. Also, put in overhead lights. In your space, a single 2X4 flat panel LED will do nicely, provided it is higher than 7'. If not, you'll need two 2X2 LED panels separated by about 4'.

You'll want a backdrop, so you'll need hardboard or drywall at least from 3' and on up. Might as well do the ceiling while you're at it, but not necessary.

Paint a backdrop of some kind before you start building the train table. Simple mountains is the best, and a blue sky. Go light blue, not what your mind says is the 'right' blue for the sky.

OSB might do quite well as exterior sheeting, but it tends to warp a bit when it gets damp. So.....be warned....make darned good'n sure your siding is water-tight.

If it were me doing this, I'd build at least 3' overhangs to keep water and snow as far away from the lowest two feet of the building as I can.

Don't forget to plan for at least one gutter. See previous comment, just above. Oh, and a downspout long enough to get water about 3' away from the foundation.
 
Start by checking your local building codes and permits. That may determine what you can and can't do. Next determine if your soil/subsoil can support the concrete block foundation without digging down and installing concrete footers. Your drawing and the picture pretty much explains the floor. I would use 5/8" tongue and groove plywood which will seal out the air leakage from underneath. The exterior walls can be made with "Smart Siding" which wouldn't require a plywood underlayment. It can be painted to protect it from the weather, although it is pre-primed already. Channel siding may be the same thing with the grooves going the other way. Don't forget to use the 1" x 3" trim on the corners.
Yes, insulate it, and then add 1/4" sheathing to the inside. Using sliding glass doors is not a good option for an outdoor shed. Use small slider windows like the picture shows, and a standard door for entry. The felt on the roof is a moisture barrier, and should not be omitted. You should also use it or Tyvek around the outside before applying the siding. You might consider a metal roof if it can be afforded. Still need the sheathing and felt though. Depending on where you live, air conditioning could be just as important as heating.
10' x 8' is a bit small, go bigger if you can. 7' high is not recommended by me, as it would require trimming every 8'-2" x 4" stud. Same with standard siding. Like Crandell posted, make the eaves 3' if possible. The shed roof in the picture would be easier to construct, but it would require trimming the studs and siding.
Have fun!
 
homersimpsonlikestrains said:
I have decided that I want to build a dedicated room for my hobbies such as a train layout. This will be built in my backyard.

The room I plan to build would be around 10ft x 8ft x 7ft tall. The foundation would comprise of a wooden frame on top of concrete blocks. That is all I know about building the foundation for the room.

Can anybody guide me with tips on how to make the flooring and how do I protect the outside walls from the rain? Should I add insulation to the walls? I think I will use shingles for the roof. And I want to have two glass sliding doors on opposite walls to let sunlight in. And there will be electrical sockets too.

This will be my first time building a room. It’s like a garden shed concept but dedicated to my hobbies only.
Click to expand...
Two thoughts on size, for starters....................

For one, go with 8' wide x 12' long x 8' high. Standard 4' x 8' sheets of plywood can cover the floor and the exterior sheeting with anywhere from a minimal amount to no cutting.

Second thought, go bigger if you can, in 4' increments if possible, or 2' increments anyway. 'Cuz no matter how big you build it, you'll always wish it was larger.
 
1. Where do you live?
2. How old are you?
3. Have you built any other buildings?
4. Can you dig a ditch and pour a concrete footing?
5. Can you run electric to the building?
6 Can you install heating equipment?
7. Do you have $10,000.00 to spare?

I may be moving soon and am considering upgrading a 12x16 shed with electric, lighting, insulation, heat for trains.
Shed is $8000, foundation could be $2000 electric and lights $1000 heat $1000.
It adds up quickly.
 
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Is this a common practice for a model railroad or any kind of indoor hobby?
You didn't mention where you live or I didn't see it.
A small outbuilding like this in N. Dakota may be OK for the summer months but winter will be a no-go season.
For an outbuilding in Florida, you'll be battling the insects most of the time along with the building being more of a sweat box.
You'll also be battling the ever expanding and contracting of the wood with humidity.
but hey, I could be wrong, and this will turn out as an excellent idea.
 
I'm in northern Florida near the cost, so just a little moderation from humidity and temp. My handi-house shed has alum siding (can't be wood siding for fire hazard in neighborhood). It has 2x4 stud framing which I installed insulation between, and PARTICULARLY the roof. The most fortunate thing was locating it under my carport roof of alum that just approx a foot above.

I would suggest this dbl-roof idea for any external shed as it limits that direct noon day sun exposure that can really heat things up,.....some sort of 'sun cover',...maybe even a soft material cover.

I might suggest some sort of metal/plastic insulation pieces between a concrete foundation and the wood sub framing. Wood & concrete in a wet (rainy) environment don't like each other.

i also have an external helix room that has amazed me in NOT collecting spiders, spider webs etc. I spray a home defense pest spray usually every 6 months around the base perimeters.
 
By all means check with your local zoning, building codes and HOA, if any! What you are proposing is very likely to require inspections and permits. Failure to comply could result in the building being condemned and required to be demolished! Is there any possibility of attaching it to your house? Depending on the capacity of the HVAC system, you may be able to save some money and work. About ten years ago, we added two rooms to our house...one for a study for my wife and the other a 14' x 14' (exterior dimensions) for a dedicated model railroad room for me. I don't recall the exact cost, but it was considerable (around $50K to $70K!). We did have to add a separate HVAC system, including an under-the-floor gas forced air system with A/C. The biggest hassle was with our HOA, which required negotiations on the amount the addition stuck out beyond our garage and the type of shingles that had to match the house. Initially, they had to waive the shingle material because the original house shingles weren't made anymore and the county wouldn't have permitted the original type had they been available. (Finally got everything matched when we re-roofed the main building. We live in an unincorporated suburban county, and the county required inspections at every step of the way, plus final after the interior was finished (including painting!). We hired a reputable contractor to do the work, including putting in a foundation deep enough to insure any soil expansion under the addition, matched that of the original building. If yours is separate, that step might not be necessary, but I would check with the inspectors to be sure.

I would recommend using sheetrock on the inside of the studs. with insulation between the stud and the exterior and interior coverings. Depending on your climate, you will be happier with minimizing temperature and humidity changes affecting the layout expanding and contracting. In a humid climate a dehumidifier might be a good idea. In a dry climate, a humidifier. Best of luck with your project.
Happy Holidays!
 
Some areas will not permit electric service to be installed in an outbuilding without a permanent foundation. Concrete blocks and gravel don't qualify. Check with your local building code office.
 


Well Homer, you have gotten some good advise so far on this thread, but might I make one other observation/suggestion:
- From the questions you have asked, it sounds like you may be new to building buildings. Might I suggest you look to a different forum for advise and suggestions on the construction of the actual building itself?
Now, stick with us, for sure, on figuring out just how big of a building you're going to end up wanting (as big as you can possible go... plus 2 feet!), and keep us up to date on your build progress, but there may be others than can offer better building advise.

No offence to anyone who has offered advise thus far - as stated above, some great advise has been doled out!
 
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