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Hello first post here, but longtime model railroader. I've just recently decided to get back into the swing of building a layout again. I've come up with a plan that uses (6) 5'x3' sections of layout together basically making a large J pattern that can be disassembled and put back together if need be. So I went to Home Depot and was standing there checking out all the "tops" I could use; foam, plywood, and finally I came across something that peaked my interest. It was a 1/4" thick material called fiberock which is an underlayment for tile I suppose. I was considering using this as a foundation as it is a very rugged yet firm base to build a layout on, basically cause the stuff also has a very nice touch to it, it comes in 3'x5' sections! . The layout I'm planning will have atleast one helix along with a section on top for a branch as well modeling an area here where I grew up. It was a bit heavy, but that doesn't really bother me much, thoughts???
Are you talking about something like WonderBoard or Durock? If so, this would be a really bad choice for a layout surface. It's usually called concrete backerboard because it's concrete enclosed in two layers of some kind of fiberglass or MDF wood. As you say, it's very hevay per square foot so your bench work will need a lot of extra bracing to just hold up the backerboard. It's very difficult to cut and you need carbide blades unless you want to change blades every third cut. The worst part is that, because it's concrete, it's extremely difficult to drill holes in. You are going to need to drill a lot of holes for a layout. I would really rather go with foam or plywood in your case.
I don't think it was durock, this stuff was called Fiberock. It was cracked on one corner and felt like paper almost, yet it was extremely durable. I couldn't see any concrete anywhere, perhaps I'm wrong though. I've looked all over for a suitable base to build a layout on besides plywood which I hate to waste so much of cutting and cutting. Not to mention a good smooth plywood is rather expensive! The layout I'm planning is to have 3 levels, the lower of the 3 just to run hidden trackage on, then middle the main layout then upper being a branch.
Fiberock is a Fiber-Reinforced Gypsum Panel. The coating is highly compressed wood fiber and the core is gypsum. While not as heavy or difficult to cut as a concrete core backerboard, this stuff is still very heavy per square foot compared to plywood. With the exception of the fact that Fiberock is already cut to the size you happen to need, I see no advantages to using it over more conventional materials. Since you are building this with the idea it might be disassembled and put back together, why not use 2" foam framed with 1"x2"'s? The foam is easy to cut, gives you a smooth surface and allows you to model below grade features like creeks and ditches easily. Any leftover foam becomes good material for building hills or mountains. The structure would be both strong and light, requiring a minimum of benchwork reinforcement compared to Fiberock.
There are several different brand names for tile backer board. Never use any of them for a layout. Very messy to cut, breaks easily if not supported extensively, would be very loud unless you put homasote or foam on top of it, and would cause extreme cracking when doing your scenery as it will suck the moisture out too quickly. Plywood or foam or both.
Avoid anything gypsum based. Simply put they ain't waterproof. The coating may be resistant but as you cut and drill you expose the underlying material. Once you start the scenery lots of liquid gets splashed around. (ballasting track etc) This will get into the gypsum and it will start to swell and eventually crumble.
My recommendation is to go light weight and use closed cell foam. (blue or pink, not the bead filled white stuff) Much easier to work with and a hell of a lot lighter too.
alright, thanks for the replies. I think I'll give the 2 inch foam a shot, the weight issue is something worthwhile. I've never worked with it though as a base material. Of course since this is a layout that I'm really building to be rather complex yet permanent. Have questions about how to frame all that in, but I guess I'll have to do some more research here with regards to tortoise machines and all attached under the foam.
Hi Hos77: All good advice from the other posters. Personally, I like L girder framing and cardboard strips, plaster cloth, and Sculptamold/Structolite mix for scenery.
HOS, latex caulk will hold a Tortoise machine to the bottom of the foam with no problem. Some modelers will build kind of a box for the foam, with the bottom being 1/4" plywood and 1x2's for the sides. This gives the switch machine a little more solid footing but it's purely optional.
I'm building a 5X10 tabletop with 3/4 inch baltic birch plywood top. Then I'm using anywhere between 1 inch and 4 inches of foam on top (depending on where you are on the layout).
I would go at least 1/2 inch ply, then foam.
2x4s are way overkill for framing. See if you can locate some 1X4 and 1x2 Poplar boards for framing. I found it very economical at a local lumber store.
The nice thing about the baltic birch ply is that it comes in 5x5 sheets.
He does a really nice suspended system on pulleys that is foam with a few braces underneath. Also shows his approach for mounting tortoise switches to the foam.
Well then congratulations on your site, it is very good, thank you for sharing it with us (or rather the world in general). I really like you suspended system, looks very polished as well, I'm not that talented with woodworking.
Any kind of gypsum board is gonna be very heavy and, as someone has already mentioned, not good with moisture... Not to mention, its lateral flex is much more than plywood or foam. i.e. it's heavier, weaker & less water-resistant than plywood or foam. So why?
Honestly... and it's just my opinion... most benchwork is massively overbuilt. My layouts have all used 1x2 gridwork on 18-24" centers with 1/4 plywood and/or 1" foam topping it... Every joint is glued & screwed with corner braces. Cheap, light & nary a problem in years of operating. Yes, I would not likely get on top of my layout and walk on it... So? If you have to put that kind of weight on your layout, you have design issues with reach...
I have a friend who uses 1x4 gridwork on 12" centers with 1/2" plywood AND foam on top... I got under the layout and had a look. His 1x4's are screwed together using 1 single 1" drywall screw at each joint. Very weak and a total waste of wood. No glue, no corner braces, nothing. Your joints will define your benchwork strength as much/more than you materials... And yet, he makes fun of me for my 'weak' construction...
A long way of saying... don't overbuild it. What the modular guys do is well worth a look, even if you're not going modular...
. The layout I'm planning will have atleast one helix along with a section on top for a branch as well modeling an area here where I grew up. It was a bit heavy, but that doesn't really bother me much, thoughts???
I may get to it this weekend.
