Beginner Question: EZ Track or not?

ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Online since 2002, it's one of the oldest and largest model railroad forums on the web. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.


y2kdad

New Member
Hi,

I'm planning my first HO layout. Can someone tell me if it's better to use EZ Track or regular HO scale track? I've heard that EZ track can limit your abilities to expand the layout and limits your options. Also, are there significant differences in cost between the two?

Thanks in advance!
 
Proviso: I've never used EZ Track or any similar product and I don't know the relative costs. Personally though, I see no need to limit oneself to EZ Track or whatever when you can have more flexibility and get good results with any or many brands of flex and any number of roadbed choices.

But I've been playing with trains for 50 years, so maybe I'm just getting to be a cranky old fart (and I still haven't found what I'd consider to be the "perfect" roadbed).
 


I enjoyed my first layout. It was built with EZ-Track. However, the system is restrictive due to the limited curve radii offered. Also, it is very expensive, almost four times as expensive per linear foot of track as flex. Once I converted to flex track, I never looked back.
 
Well, that settles that....:)

Thanks to all of your for your input. I was leaning towards NOT using EZ Track and your input was very valuable.
 
Flex track is where it's at... that on a cork roadbed, easy as pie to install.

That said, I had very bad luck with the Micro Engineering flex track, as the ties were so tight on the rail that I couldn't get a good arc out of it... ended up throwing it aside and using some Atlas Super flex that I found at a train show for 4 bucks a stick...
 
I mix some of the large curve gray EZ track with flex, and have been in the hobby since the 70's. I found my engines have run the best on Kato's Unitrak(the HO version).
 
Not EZ, but if you want to use modular track on a base, go with KATO Unitrack. It comes in a wide variety of curve radii up to 31-inches and the turnouts are supposed to much better, and best of all, the price is about the same - at least on some popular mail order sites!
 
At a recent train show, I noticed that most of the club layouts did not use any cork roadbed at all. They simply attached the track to either a foam layer on top of the plywood base OR they used another material instead of foam, such as homasote. Would I be able to do the same? When I include the risers, I suppose I'd need to use cork roadbed on those areas......right?
 
At a recent train show, I noticed that most of the club layouts did not use any cork roadbed at all. They simply attached the track to either a foam layer on top of the plywood base OR they used another material instead of foam, such as homasote. Would I be able to do the same? When I include the risers, I suppose I'd need to use cork roadbed on those areas......right?

What are you modeling? If you're modeling a well-groomed, Class 1 mainline, then you'll want proper roadbed. If you're modeling an urban switching layout, or a small short line, then the track probably wouldn't be as well maintained.

Here's an example of where you could get away with not using roadbed. Notice how the ties seem to be embedded directly in the mud with little or no roadbed.
http://chicagoswitching.com/v6/arti...ationid=1&locationname=Lakewood&articleid=129

Steve S
 
Last edited by a moderator:


What are you modeling? If you're modeling a well-groomed, Class 1 mainline, then you'll want proper roadbed. If you're modeling an urban switching layout, or a small short line, then the track probably wouldn't be as well maintained.

Here's an example of where you could get away with not using roadbed. Notice how the ties seem to be embedded directly in the mud with little or no roadbed.
http://chicagoswitching.com/v6/arti...ationid=1&locationname=Lakewood&articleid=129

Steve S

I'm planning on some track in my layout that will be "less maintained" and some that is well maintained. The "less maintained" will not use the cork roadbed. How do I transition between "Less" and "well" maintained at say, the turnouts?
 
Flex track will allow you to do any curve you want. You WILL have to saw track to get pieces to join up. You WILL have to spike it down with additional effort near joints to prevent kinks. You WILL spend less on track. You WILL hear less clickity clack.
 
How do I transition between "Less" and "well" maintained at say, the turnouts?
I use HO scale cork for mainlines only. I use N scale and no roadbed for sidings and spurs. I make the transitions away from turnouts (close only means trouble) and use "shims" purchased at the local Home Depot. Insert them under the N roadbed to go from HO to N. I also use short pieces of shirt cardboard layered in succession to go down to base. Use a continuous piece on top. Keep the cardboard to tie width and spike securely to avoid warping later when you ballast.
willie
 
Well, I'm planning on a layout from the early 1950's. I have a BLI 4-8-2 steam loco and 5 PRR passenger cars. I'm going to freelance this whole project but I'm trying to base it on some local towns here in Pennsylvania. My scenery will include a small town, a mountain with at least two trains. Eventually, I would like to expand a little bit to include a yard.

I was under the impression that as long as the homasote was on top of the plywood, I could just put down the ballast on top of the tracks. Am I wrong about that? Then I need cork roadbed on top of the homasote/foam layer? What about the risers I plan to include? I want to have a trestle where one line will cross on top of another. I would need to attach roadbed to the risers too, right? Sorry for all the questions.....I'm still trying to absorb as much of this information as I can.
 
Ballast serves to anchor the ties, which maintain alignment and gauge for the rails. Ballast also provides drainage. For track on which the railroad relies heavily for financial robustness, the drainage problem is serious. So, those tracks will have a raised roadbed, well compacted and leveled, and then ballasted. If your terrain is going to be essentially flat, then homasote caulked directly to the plywood is a good way to go IMO. If you intend some relief in the terrain, then the homasote should be adhered to the roadbed as it rises and falls.

For the more industrial tracks, yards, spurs, and so on, I would use N scale roadbed, or thinner cork than the homasote. Or, transition right down to the plywood if you wish. I have used long thin door jam cedar shims. Later, without forcing the flex track either up or down, but having it anchored at the diverging route of the turnout, I just lay it on the roadbed/plywood and let it conform and shape itself. I add one or two shims for support, but I often rely just on the ballast grains groomed to look right to support the flex track. Once it is glued, the ballast acts like a roadbed of sorts, and no one will know that you don't have a properly prepared roadbed. That's the way I did it for my recently built layout. I let the flex track tell me what it wanted to do, filled under it, or even built two plaster ramps in two cases. The plaster doesn't have to be carefully shaped initially. Just goop it into a couple of forms made with wood or plastic, and then sand it reasonably smooth.
 
When you say you "add one or two shims for support" doesn't that support need to be underneath the entire length of that section of track? It would create a "bump" or a little hill, if that was not the case, right? Also, why does the roadbed have to be thinner for the more industrial tracks? I'm just curious.....I would never have that to do that.
Thanks!!
 
Just a note on roadbed - people have used / do use as many things as you can think of - cork, sheet cork, Homasote, shelf liner, floor underlayment, Woodland Scenics foam, etc, etc. And some use no roadbed at all.

As mentioned, the "best" material will be determined by what you're modeling. For example, the ballast on the south side of Chicago Union Station has a very low profile so I'd probably go with thin sheet cork at most. Once you get out west on the BNSF Race Track, you see well-maintained high profiles. I'd probably use regular cork roadbed for that. Up to you...
 




Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website (Learn More Here)

Back
Top