Basic weathering steps

[Toolbelt]

My fleet is still factory finished, and untouched as far as weathering is concerned. My basic plan on the bodies is as follows;

1. Apply decals (mainly graffiti and conspicuity stripes)
2. Airbush acrylic (mainly light fading on uppers and road grime undercarriage)
3. Seal with matt clear
4. Spot rust/streaking with acrylics and water soluble oils
5. final seal (if needed) with matt clear
6. weathering powders as accents only

Anybody see anything glaringly wrong with my plan??? Best to seal acrylics before applying spot acrylic/oils over top? Should I seal after applying decals, and before any painting begins?

trucks/wheels will be done separately.

 

[migalyto]

If you havent already, read thru this thread. It is a wealth of knowledge for the beginner who wants to start the process.

Thread 'Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread'

Feb 28, 2022

Hello fellow modelers with interests in painting and weathering. This will be my new spot. Instead of starting a new thread for each weathering project, they will be here. Pictures of rolling stock will be here. At this time I do not do locomotives.

I encourage you to give Constructive Criticism and hope you show some of YOUR work with descriptions of what you did, what you used, etc…

I am not showing any of the 51 pulpwood cars I have weathered since October, 2021. I have kept 16. As I have taken on a project for a modeler of 15 pulp wood cars with no loads. You may get sick of seeing...

• TLOC
• Replies: 2,805
• Forum: Painting, Detailing and Weathering

• 
• 

 

[CambriaArea51]

Do #6 before #5. You want to seal the powers. Wear rubber gloves before handling car after dull coat otherwise the oil on your fingers will leave a print and the powders will expose your print.

 

[RhB Michael]

Before you apply decals you first need a gloss coat so the decals will adhere properly. If you choose not to do this, your decals will have a 'silvered' effect after drying when viewing the model. Decals do not like flat or semi-gloss finishes.

 

[Toolbelt]

Before you apply decals you first need a gloss coat so the decals will adhere properly. If you choose not to do this, your decals will have a 'silvered' effect after drying when viewing the model. Decals do not like flat or semi-gloss finishes.

Most, if not all of my victims, have the typical semi-gloss factory finish. Some are more a satin finish. For the satin or flatter ones, I will apply spot gloss if required.

 

[Toolbelt]

Do #6 before #5. You want to seal the powers. Wear rubber gloves before handling car after dull coat otherwise the oil on your fingers will leave a print and the powders will expose your print.

The powders will mainly be a light dusting of the trucks/wheels and couplers. Apparently there is a optional wetting agent to bind the pigments to the surface if needed. I likely won't be applying powders to the bodies itself or in areas prone to touch.

 

[moonlighting_racer]

Wash the car with warm water and soap before doing anything.

If you're going to use panel liner, use it before doing anything else.

Decals like logos and reporting marks first, graffiti is usually fresher and shouldn't be as heavily weathered, save those for later.

Fade is key to fixing the often toy-like factory colors and really makes the car look more like a model. I've found putting a few drops of white or a lighter hue of the body color into your favorite clear is the best method.

Now you can graffiti if you like.

I love powders, they're capable of far more than just a finish step. Think of them as makeup. They can highlight areas, conceal mistakes, and blend your brush work. Seal your powders after application, the clear will usually knock down their effects a bit too.

Post powders, I'll still spray a bit of earth tones on the very bottom of the car, it makes a really big difference somehow. I won't always seal after doing so. I'll also do some grimy black on the front and rear.

Even if you're not modeling a specific car, study lots of pictures of similar ones and make a plan. Just splashing on rust or washes randomly is not going to look good.

 

[Toolbelt]

Wash the car with warm water and soap before doing anything.

If you're going to use panel liner, use it before doing anything else.

Decals like logos and reporting marks first, graffiti is usually fresher and shouldn't be as heavily weathered, save those for later.

Fade is key to fixing the often toy-like factory colors and really makes the car look more like a model. I've found putting a few drops of white or a lighter hue of the body color into your favorite clear is the best method.

Now you can graffiti if you like.

I love powders, they're capable of far more than just a finish step. Think of them as makeup. They can highlight areas, conceal mistakes, and blend your brush work. Seal your powders after application, the clear will usually knock down their effects a bit too.

Post powders, I'll still spray a bit of earth tones on the very bottom of the car, it makes a really big difference somehow. I won't always seal after doing so. I'll also do some grimy black on the front and rear.

Even if you're not modeling a specific car, study lots of pictures of similar ones and make a plan. Just splashing on rust or washes randomly is not going to look good.

My intent is just too slightly alter the "newness" of my fleet. I will mainly be doing a highly diluted fade by airbrushing. I will do small amounts of rust effects on just a few pieces, keeping in mind that less is more. I will airbrush the bottoms with road grime colours, as well as a bit on the ends, including some wheel kickup. I want to simulate no more than 10 yrs of wear n tear. My plan to apply the decals first was based on the efficiency of having an untouched factory surface to apply them too, although I hear what you're saying about covering them with paint. I will look into spot applying a gloss where the decals will go so that I can apply them at any stage in the process, then finish up with a matt. I've been watching tons of YouTubes and taking notes. Techniques can vary greatly between modelers but the concepts air fairly consistent.