Banded Iron Rail

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Hi

Have a construction problem, making a basement structure for a car dumper, that will be attached to the underside of an acrylic sheet (red 10mm thick), would like it to be removable, but I'm not sure that will be an option. The basement was going to be made from 3mm acrylic.

The 10mm acrylic sheet sits on a 50mm foam base board.

Any ideas would be appreciated on either making it removable or permanent.

Cheers

From the top
Car Dumper-01.JPG


From the underside

Car Dumper-02.JPG
 
Hi

Have a construction problem, making a basement structure for a car dumper, that will be attached to the underside of an acrylic sheet (red 10mm thick), would like it to be removable, but I'm not sure that will be an option. The basement was going to be made from 3mm acrylic.

The 10mm acrylic sheet sits on a 50mm foam base board.

Any ideas would be appreciated on either making it removable or permanent.

Cheers

From the top
View attachment 166618

From the underside

View attachment 166619
Could you add runners to the outside so it slides out like a desk drawer
 
Thanks, sent some time seeing how that would go and the short answer is no.

So the dimension from the top to bottom is 63mm, so 10mm will be sitting on top of the foam so the bottom will only just clear the underside of my baseboard, so sliding it in and out will not be an option.

It's going to have to be permanent there is no way around it.

This is going to be a pain in the ar#e
 


Things have been on hold, while I try to work out how to control the turnouts. I've been looking at using servos and control them with Arduino or just servo testers. So I'm thinking about making a point motor that looks like it works, So I've printed a point motor, still needs work, just have to start testing.

IMG_8661-web.JPG


IMG_8663-web.JPG
 


Hi
I was explaining this to a mate at I was going to use PCB cut into sleeper size pieces and replace the plastic ones over the joint and solder the rail to the sleeper, and he asked why? Why don't you glue the plastics ones and cut through them?

There seems to be no difference between the two methods. To be honest I don't see why you should replace the original sleepers with PCB sleepers. Any thoughts on this or am I missing something?

Cheers
 


Hi
Finally finished one tunnel portal. This is how I did it, it's not perfect, maybe I should have started on a straight.

What you'll need
- 1.5 x 1.5mm styrene angle Evergreen 291
- 0.5mm thick styrene
- Anko Modelling Paste
IMG_0150.JPG


IMG_9725.JPG


I cut 13.5 to 14mm wide styrene strips (measure between the rails), then length depends on your tunnel.Being on a curve,

I cut kerves into the styrene every 10mm to 15mmso I could bend it around the curve and glued it between the rails using Gorilla Clear glue.

I then glued the 1.5x1.5mm angle to the styrene using push pins as a spacer or 1.5mm balsa. This became the trough for the modelling paste.

Mask the top of the 1.5x1.5 angle so to keep the modelling paste out of the inside of the rail and the outside of rail, apply the modelling paste, I used paint scraper to level it off.
IMG_0180.JPG

For the area between the rail and the tunnel, I placed an 8mm high plastic strip so that I have something to guide the paint scrapper against the rail and the strip. Mask of the inner part of the rail.

IMG_0254.JPG


The modelling paste will crack if applied too thick, but I just filled these in as the modelling paste dried off.

Tip remove the masking tape 24hrs after you have applied the modelling paste otherwise it lifts ups and turns to cr#p.

You can sand the modelling paste fill required, well depending how good you leveled it to begin with.

Then paint I used Vallejo Model Colour Deck Tan for the concrete that was the closest for me.

IMG_0578.JPG


Hopefully I didn't miss anything.

Cheers
 




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