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I look at my layout (I've been working on it over 20 years). The layout is an around the walls 15 x 24 foot layout and other than some ballast that I put under Joan's town (2 tunnels), I have not laid any ballast. I have tons of ballast waiting to be installed; but after a quick count, I have over 20 turnouts (and I seem to always want to add more). I know that ballast plays havoc with turnouts and it is a real bitch removing ballast to add a new turnout; so I am asking how many modelers have ballast on their tracks. I don't for the above reasons; but I can't be the only person.
I’m slowly ballasting my turnouts when the mood hits.
I’ve done the real thing and can tell you it’s a pain as well!
You only need a little, like half way up the ties and use a pipette or eye dropper to apply the glue mix.
If you’re looking for a super easy method I have used metal duct tape on the bottom of the switch under the points then pressed the ballast in from the top, works pretty dang good!
First, I mark where the throw bar will be. Then I remove the cork that would be under the throw bar to prevent any glue migration from messing with the throw of the points. Next, I paint the sides of the ballast strip (I use cork) and sprinkle on some ballast keeping it nice and neat like what a well kept roadbed would be. I then allow it to dry overnight with the glue mixture becoming firm and holding everything in its place. I then do the area between the rails. Also, I have found that using ballast made from real rock is far better than the ground up walnut shells that Woodland Scenic sells. Real rock ballast will stay in place and will not float when the glue mixture is applied.
I look at my layout (I've been working on it over 20 years). The layout is an around the walls 15 x 24 foot layout and other than some ballast that I put under Joan's town (2 tunnels), I have not laid any ballast. I have tons of ballast waiting to be installed; but after a quick count, I have over 20 turnouts (and I seem to always want to add more). I know that ballast plays havoc with turnouts and it is a real bitch removing ballast to add a new turnout; so I am asking how many modelers have ballast on their tracks. I don't for the above reasons; but I can't be the only person.
My thoughts on ballast! GROAN. The one thing about model railroading I actually hate, followed closely by adding grab irons to HO models..
As the others have said, keep the glue and the ballast itself far away from turnout points and throw bars. I have dental picks to help remove stray grains. I use spray bottle of soapy water to get everything moist before I start gluing, otherwise the glue will make the ballast blob up and "roll" down the sides.
I need to ballast a number of areas on my layout, but I'm still trying to work the bugs out of a few sections, and the others I'm considering some possible changes.
If you want realism, you need two things. Painted track and ballast. Like it or not, there it is! In talking with guys at Model Railroader, those were the two top reasons a layout would be disqualified from a magazine appearance. You may not care about getting published, but the track work looks so much better!
If you have time, ballasting and painting the track are definitely worthwhile. I did mine before all the other scenery was in place, especially before the trees and buildings in front go in.
I paint before ballast, using a spray can and wiping off the top of the track almost immediately to keep that clean, being careful to not disturb the paint on the sides of the track.
Everyone seems to have their own method, I use a small bottle with a nipple opening which I apply the ballast with, after using an eyedropper to get the alcohol and water wetting agent down. I also apply the watery white glue with an eyedropper over the applied ballast. I went over a couple hundred feet of track with this method.
For Unitrack, use gray latex bathroom caulk, spread to your desired shape and spread fine gray ballast on it. Use your finger to gently press the ballast into the caulk and let dry. Vacuum or if you can tip the module over it then drops free.
I ballast everywhere, but I place a piece of masking tape over the head blocks and throwbars of every turnout. Sometimes I don't glue the ballast in turnouts (it's a good idea not to), but just as often I do glue it. I immediately remove the tape and work the points back and forth after clearing all the grit from near the head blocks. If the points close properly, then that's good enough. I don't use electro-mechanical throws. I line my routes by hand because I enjoy thinking about and executing those functions before moving a train. I always sense when my throws are not moving well or completely.
If you want realism, you need two things. Painted track and ballast. Like it or not, there it is! In talking with guys at Model Railroader, those were the two top reasons a layout would be disqualified from a magazine appearance. You may not care about getting published, but the track work looks so much better!
painted track is another, GROAN. I see very little track that looks right. A lot of people get it way too rusty red, others too brown. I've not come up with a color I like yet so I'm still experimenting. My test section track looks more like patchwork at the moment.
The thing about painting track is do it in segments and don’t rush.
Light passes of a spray can or airbrush are critical not to cover the details in the ties. It can be done using a brush, patience and time but spraying can be very satisfying.
After painting then ballast. There are some excellent suggestions about ballasting here. Afraid of the turnouts, I totally understand and have been there done that. Secure the ballast right up to the parts that move. Walk away. When you’re ready add ballast to the area you missed, leave dry. Works for me and unless someone sneezes overbthe turnout it will stay in place.
painted track is another, GROAN. I see very little track that looks right. A lot of people get it way too rusty red, others too brown. I've not come up with a color I like yet so I'm still experimenting. My test section track looks more like patchwork at the moment.
The club track looks pretty good at NAPM. I'll find out what their mix is. YMMV since you're a Santa Fe guy. Our club was intended to be "Anywhere USA".
Hi !
First I airbrush the turnouts a dark/medium grey colour, then I clean the rails tops.
I apply ballast ( N scale for HO ) with a folded piece of thin cardboard and a small paint brush.
I push a little ballast just under the throwbar ends, but not underneath.
At the throwbar ends I very gently wet the ballast with 70% alcohol using a pipette, a couple drops are enough.
Again with the pipette I carefully apply a 50/50 mix of water and white wood glue with a few drops of dishwashing detergent added.
Same procedure and caution for the turnout points.
While the glue sets I come back once in awhile and move the throwbar back and forth. The throwbar ends actually shape the ballast.
I never had any problems doing so.
Later on I like to paint all rail tops not touched by the wheels a rusty tint.
I finish with airbrushing an off white colour to give a dusty look. Then again cleaning the rail tops.
The thing about painting track is do it in segments and don’t rush.
Light passes of a spray can or airbrush are critical not to cover the details in the ties. It can be done using a brush, patience and time but spraying can be very satisfying.
After painting then ballast. There are some excellent suggestions about ballasting here. Afraid of the turnouts, I totally understand and have been there done that. Secure the ballast right up to the parts that move. Walk away. When you’re ready add ballast to the area you missed, leave dry. Works for me and unless someone sneezes overbthe turnout it will stay in place.
This!