Ballast?

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michaeljoe

Well-Known Member
I want to ballast my ho track. I had trouble finding cork track bed, so I wound up buying "Woodland Scenes" track bed.
Its feels like foam rubber.
Do I still use the same method as cork bed? Or did I waste my money?
 


I agree, largely the same, but as with all things in the hobby, ya gotta learn yourself how to get the best performance out of them....and out of YOU using them. Sometimes a few kerf cuts on the inside or the outside of the curve helps if you need to curve them a bit tighter than 20' radius, but it depends on the material. I use DAP Alex Plus with silicone 'clear' caulk as an adhesive. I have found that it is better than the 'white' stuff...no idea why, it just is more pliable and stick better. Note that, should you wish to try this for yourself, it goes on white as well, but will dry clear/yellowish, and shiny. Your ballast will cover the shine.

Use an old credit card, or a spatula, and spread the bead of caulk quite thin. You don't need more, and it will just ooze everywhere if you overdo it. A single bead running down the centerline, spread with a 'food to your door' throw away card or something, and then use small nails or tacks to keep the roadbed flat and in place for two hours until the caulk sets up a bit.
 
Thanks everyone, I don't know why, but I'm having trouble finding the best way to glue/attach the train track to the....foam roadbed... before the ballasts process.
I feel like an idiot, I looked at YouTube but can't find that anywhere, (at least now, I know where to find Ukrainian women to date) anyways,
I'm pretty sure that caulk is the way to go.
Any better suggestions. Thanks.
 
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Yes you can use the same calk for the track or use track nails temporarily until ballasted.
I say temporarily as the nails will transmit wheel noise to the layout base.
Otherwise maybe one of the Ukrainian women you mentioned may have a solution? 😝
 
Just a simple application of caulk that dries flexible to fix the track to the roadbed. I always just weight it down instead of nailing it so I can do the minor adjustments before it dries.
For the application of glue for the ballast, I use an old plastic (squeeze bottle) catsup bottle instead of an eye dropper. Makes the work go quicker.


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D&J RailRoad said:
Just a simple application of caulk that dries flexible to fix the track to the roadbed. I always just weight it down instead of nailing it so I can do the minor adjustments before it dries.
For the application of glue for the ballast, I use an old plastic (squeeze bottle) catsup bottle instead of an eye dropper. Makes the work go quicker.


View attachment 204402
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Ketchup bottle, great idea!
 


I stole the squeeze bottle with the blue nozzle from the wife’s stash of goodies. (Shhhh!)
It’s great for measuring the glue/water ratio.
The mustard bottle is for water/soap/alcohol mix.

IMG_1170.jpeg
 
To all the experts here at MRR. should I scrape the foam roadbed, and go with cork roadbed?

I haven't started the roadbed, yet I just don't want to have any regrets latter.
Just gathering ideas and supplies before I get started.
 
michaeljoe said:
To all the experts here at MRR. should I scrape the foam roadbed, and go with cork roadbed?

I haven't started the roadbed, yet I just don't want to have any regrets latter.
Just gathering ideas and supplies before I get started.
Click to expand...
I have never used the foam roadbed, so I can't really compare. But I have been very pleased with the cork roadbed for over 40 years. I glue it to the plywood with Elmer's White Glue. You have a few minutes to make adjustments from there.
 
I too am on the fence with this and not an expert. I am planning on not using nails/screws or the like for attaching main line roadbed to the sub roadbed; probably some sort of construction adhesive. Ties also 'glued' to the roadbed. Yes, some sort of glue that can be ..um.. easily removed if necessary. Thought about cork, foam and blue board. From past experience I found that the cork dries out over time and can loose 'chunks' of which bubble up and get into the works of things: switches, trucks ... etc no matter how well ballast is done. The foam I was looking at is pretty much too 'squishable' and might not be a good base. Blueboard would be thicker than either of the other two, but maybe not a problem in the grand scheme of things.

In my case, the industrial sidings will be hand laid. Those sidings will not have roadbed, just placed on the sub roadbed. The issue is the rail needs to be nailed in place. Sure, some sort of really strong glue for that might do the trick although putting that on rail, or ties could get really messy real fast. Will play with that, If it does not work to my expectations, nails need something to stick in that is solid as ties alone might not be enough. Cork handles that, the other 2 not so much.

Bottom line here is that I want something simple, in-expensive and works. I played with blueboard a bit and found it easy to cut into 4' sections, then 2" wide strips and angle cutting those into 1" strips. They are easy to bend to the radii I need with not much 'dust' if cut with a masonry blade. Have decided to sandwich 1/8 plywood on top blueboard for sidings, and test with blueboard strips on top of blueboard for the main's. Blueboard is the cheapest by far $$$ wise, and it does not take too long to cut those strips, so hoping for that. We all know that it costs $$$ for anything we do as MRR's - time is money; I now have the time and don't have to 'throw money' at it.

I will get back to my favorite construction material store and talk with them about any 'new' materials that might work for this in the next month or so. Things could change.

Later
 
If you have the foam roadbed, use it. It's softer than cork, and will reduce any noise from the rolling stock on the rails. You should be able to mix and match foam and cork, as long as you use the same height of both. If the foam is taller than cork, shim the cork underneath. If the foam is shorter than the cork, you can trim off some on the underside of the cork. Just do it over at least 6" or so to minimize vertical curves.
 
michaeljoe said:
Thanks everyone, I don't know why, but I'm having trouble finding the best way to glue/attach the train track to the....foam roadbed... before the ballasts process.
I feel like an idiot, I looked at YouTube but can't find that anywhere, (at least now, I know where to find Ukrainian women to date) anyways,
I'm pretty sure that caulk is the way to go.
Any better suggestions. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Those Ukrainian women are probably from Ghana, and they're probably darker in complexion...and they probably have deeper voices😉
Caulk is a good way, like others suggested. Another is a model railroad supply what is a Goo, but it's probably a little more expensive. Also unlike caulk, goo stays tacky, and it's easier to realign the track if you choose so.
 
santafewillie said:
I have never used the foam roadbed, so I can't really compare. But I have been very pleased with the cork roadbed for over 40 years. I glue it to the plywood with Elmer's White Glue. You have a few minutes to make adjustments from there.
Click to expand...
For some reason i found that fully balasted foam roadbed creates more noise from passing trains than fully balasted cork. I would think it would be opposite. I tried both out of curiosity.
 


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