Attemping a decoder install on a new Athearn GP38-2

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Motley

Active Member
Well, since I fried a decoder on my first attempt to install a decoder, I am going to try this again.

I just picked up an Athearn GP38-2 which does not have a DCC plug in it. In fact this thing doesn't even have any wires at all when I took off the shell.

And what is up with the big single light? it only has one light? No backup light? I discovered this when I took off the shell.

The decoder I got is a Tsunami AT-1000 EMD 645 Non-Turbo. So I just called Soundtraxx tech support and they told me I have to take off the trucks, and the motor in order to wire this up.

Has anyone installed a decoder on one of these? Can you please post some instructions with photos.

Here's a pic with the shell off:
IMG_0365.JPG


I appreciate any help you can give me on this....

Michael
 
this is the old "crew fryer" loco, basically a slight refresh from BB. not DCC ready of course so instalation of decoder is to solder the leads in. a cheapest 2 function decoder will be at home here (unless you plan to super-detail and add bunch of stuff). as far as lights you will have to make your own headlight and back light. even if you not going to install new headlights i'd remove the cab bulb, IMHO looks dumb.
 
Oh boy, this is looking like it's gonna be way over my head. I think I'll reach out to some members here that can do the install for me.
 


I can post pictures of a completed one I did, but if you can use a soldering iron, then you can do the install. The main problem I found is which speaker to use and where to put it.
 
Oh boy, this is looking like it's gonna be way over my head. I think I'll reach out to some members here that can do the install for me.
Best thing is to get a Digitrax non-sound decoder that was made for those virtual blue box engines, follow the instructions, and use it as a non-sound locomotive. Save the Tsunami for another locomotive.
That Tsunami will be at home in an Atlas or Proto 2000 GP38-2, Kato SD38-2, you could even put it in an Athearn RTR SD38.
If you wanted to, you could even get an Athearn Genesis MP15 or Atlas MP15, and install it in one of them.
 
yep, IMO sound for RTR GP38 is a bit overkill. luxury for only ok'ish engine . but it is possible. (although i'm not sure where to jam that speaker...)
 
It's actually not hard at all. The first decoder I ever installed was in an Athearn GP38-2. PM me if you need instructions or if you need other help.
 
When I talked to Soundtraxx, they told me I need to remove the weight that was on top. So I removed it and also took a dremel and removed the plastic part that holds the weight. To make room for the decoder.

There seemed to be enough room for the speaker under the rear shell.

But yesterday I shipped it off to Mark (MGWSY) to do the install for me. Just too complicated for me right now.

I hope it runs OK, it's gonna be my yard switcher. Does it at least run smooth at slow speeds?
 


I installed 2 Digitrax DH123D's in two of these Athearn BNSF GP38-2's yesterday. It was actually very easy to.(i watched some youtube installs!) Only problem I have stumbled upon, is the limited space under the shell. It sits very very snuggly against the engine on both sides aswell as the weight on the top.

This leaves limited space for the decoder to be placed. I can see where having longer wires would come in handy to place it towards the back of the engine where there seems to be a bit more space. I was going to do a sound decoder like you in one of the engines but after i had first taken the shell off, i decided against it for these little engines. Maybe tackle the task in a larger Dash-9 or similar engine.
 
My local DCC guy generally advises to place the speaker above the rear truck, underneath the fans of a GP unit. Depending on the type of locomotive and shell and such will determine if the speaker faces up or down. The decoder is then mounted as far forward, with usually half of it in the cab.

In my GP38-2, I removed the weight underneath the exhaust hatch (where the dynamic brake blister would be if it was one with dynamic brakes). The flat plastic area there looked just big enough for the decoder (same as yours) but I couldn't put the hatch back on without removing almost all the plastic. I then ended up putting the decoder almost on top of the motor, with it being mounted slightly forward. Since I was using a locomotive that my local DCC guy installed LEDs (front and rear) for me, I had a limited amount of wire to work with, so I ended up assembling the locomotive and then doing some of the soldering.

The speaker was a little more difficult, since 1) I had issues with the rear flywheel contacting the baffle 2) had a small amount of aluminum tubing (where the rear LED was), and 3) the metal arm (which the spring conductor clip carries current from the top of the truck to the motor) was in the way. I ended up cutting off that metal arm, and shaving a lot of the baffle to get it not to rub on the flywheel. Not a pretty install, and the next GP38-2 will be different.

I do, though, prefer the Atlas Trainman version GP38-2 (or Atlas in general) for slow-speed work. Unfortunately, Athearn is the only one for me for IC/ICG since the paper filter box is prototypical to the IC. If I could put a Athearn shell on an Atlas frame, I'd have the best of both worlds.

Oh, and if the motor doesn't run slow enough for you, you can remotor to a Mashima or something.
 




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