atlas turnout mod

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Jacob, this is more an issue with a particular type of wheel than the frog. We have so many different wheel diameters, flange depths, and tread cross sections today that it's almost impossible not to find a wheel that doesn't have a problem with the frog of almost any switch. Atlas makes their switch to operate with as many different wheel types that are out there, including the old pizza cutter flanges. The fix for smaller wheels is to just super glue a strip of styrene into the frog to stop the wheel from dropping.

Actually the smaller wheels rise. I think the flange is too tall. I do get the point however.

I've ran everything that I have through the FastTracks and nothing is having trouble. There is no frog drop and no flange rise. Our Free-mo group is pooling resources with FastTracks jigs and we now have a 5, 6, and 8. There is no reason for anyone is our group to operate with inferior switches anymore.
 
Couldn't agree more on the Fast Tracks jigs but it does take some time and experience in the hobby to start making your own switches. A little work with a flat file will solve the frog problem, which is probably a few millimeters too high. I just think that, for the newcomers here, we have a tendency to say that switch "S" is always vastly superior to switch "A". I think we disappoint a lot of folks who find out that almost any RTR switch needs some adjustment and we make their wallets a little lighter than they have to be.
 
Hi: I agree with Carey and Jim. If I were to build another layout, knowing what I do now, I would use Fast Track turnouts, and hand lay with code 83 all the track, except staging. Am I going to rip out all my track and Atlas turnouts on my present, mostly finished layout? I don't think so. Can Atlas turnouts be modified to work reasonably well? I think they can, I have over 60 of them on my layout. The majority of beginners do not have the time, money, or skill to hand lay turnouts and track. Just my opinion.
 


Couldn't agree more on the Fast Tracks jigs but it does take some time and experience in the hobby to start making your own switches. ...
I think we disappoint a lot of folks who find out that almost any RTR switch needs some adjustment and we make their wallets a little lighter than they have to be.

Well said Jim. Sometimes we do tend to not only disappoint, but even confuse people with the Brand A vs. Brand B comparisons. All brands have their shortcomings, and learning how to overcome those shortcomings is part of the learning curve of the hobby. But its something that not everyone will do. Instead, they buy another brand and because it may perform better, they start saying that they use Brand B because Brand A is trash and is no good.

While I agree that for anyone who is a handlaying "noobie", that the fast tracks jigs are very, very good. My only complaint about them is really the same one I have against all commercial track manufacturers. That is you are limited to only what you can buy. With "freehand" handlaying, you can build a turnout in any geometry you need, and a side benefit is that the same techniques are used for building any "specialty" track piece you may need, like a crossing. Ever need an odd angle crossing? Just build it!
 
I guess you can compair switches like we do with loco mfg

Most of us long time modlers wont buy a standard Life like or bachman loco for reasons off poor running and lack of details. but most of us all started with them around the christmas tree or on a 4x8 board. I think its the same with track we use. Snap switches might be good for a starter or first time layout but after learning about the other switch mfg out there our eyes open to see that there are better performers out there. Like gramps said... most of us wont go ripping out track...instead we try to fix the issues first.. We learn that next time we build a layout there may be a better switch option availible.

only after I installed all my atlas switch tracks did I find out from this foum that peco and other brands exsisted. I feel this was just another learing example for me and I hope that others see threads like these to learn of all the options availible before just sticking to what they know. again just my .02 ;)
Trent
 
I guess you can compair switches like we do with loco mfg

Most of us long time modlers wont buy a standard Life like or bachman loco for reasons off poor running and lack of details.

Very true. You do on occasion find a diamond in these, (I got one!:p)but not enough often to justify building an entire layout around them.

but most of us all started with them around the christmas tree or on a 4x8 board. I think its the same with track we use. Snap switches might be good for a starter or first time layout but after learning about the other switch mfg out there our eyes open to see that there are better performers out there. Like gramps said... most of us wont go ripping out track...instead we try to fix the issues first.. We learn that next time we build a layout there may be a better switch option availible.
only after I installed all my atlas switch tracks did I find out from this foum that peco and other brands exsisted. I feel this was just another learing example for me and I hope that others see threads like these to learn of all the options availible before just sticking to what they know. again just my .02 ;)
Trent

I have to admit, that the internet does make it easier to learn about new methods and products. I learn something new everyday, whether its on the internet, via personal experience on my layout, re-reading a magazine in my collection, (from 1937 on) or building a new model.:p
I guess that I was fortunate. My first HO layout was only an oval whose straight side was a 9" piece of brass track on one side and a Tru-Scale turnout kit built on the other, with an 18" long spur off of that. This was the only layout that was all "prefabbed", as any non-handlaid track was called then. I was also fortunate that my Dad really supported me as I got started.
My Dad had been somewhat of a Model Railroader prior to WWII, and had located a real train shop for he and I to go to. Once a month he'd drive me to Willots Model RR Shop, in Prattville, Al. (Long gone now.) For almost 7 yrs, he did this until I could drive myself. Will & Lottie Miller had this shop in their basement and was always giving me advice. Will was the one to get me to try handlaying track. :)
At the time Dad was driving me, (early 60's) just about the only track available, at Will's shop at least, was Atlas, affordable, always available, but flaky at times, Tru-Scale, rock solid but super expensive, and Shinohara, rock solid, expensive, but not always available. (Some things never change!;)) It was available for HO only in code 100 or code 70 NS.
There were other brands like American Flyer HO, and Rivarossi's Cassido, but they were also hard to get. He also told me to not use brass track, but use NS as it was worth the few extra pennies it cost. The best track he told me was strictly handlaid, as there were no limits on what you could do with it, and the quality was only limited to how well you did it. Other than the low material cost the only thing was it took time to learn. I never did really develop a good technique to laying track until two things happened. One, I got married while in college in Mobile, Al. Two, While in Mobile I met another LHS owner, Roy Keeley, who allowed me to work on his O-scale layout, which was a rough copy of John Armstrong's Canadaigua Southern. Roy taught me a "shortcut" from Paul Mallory's method of trackwork, and letting me practice on his track with code 172 NS rail and 1/2" Walthers spikes. (I bought the book and have used the methods in the book ever since.) After 3 months I got pretty darn good with it. I became Roy's primary trackman from '73 until I moved to B'ham in '89. In that time, 73-89, I also had 6 more layouts of my own, all handlaid as well, with the largest 12x17'.
 
God, I forgot about that one! You know I've built so many for other folks over the years, I've forgotten what I did for who! I know that for Jim Mc and the Captain, I built some turnouts in N-scale, and HOn2.5. Larry S., I built some dual gaugers, HO/HOn3. My buddy in Mobile, O, On3, On2, On2/3 dual gaugers...... There were others.:D My Half-heimers is kickin' in. Can't remember all of them....
Yeah, you built me that special, curved, two turnout combo, that I have and still use.;)
 
Yeah, you built me that special, curved, two turnout combo, that I have and still use.;)

Haven't forgot them at all, but I never was really satisfied with them. Can't to this dayput my finger on what was bugging me about those. That's what I did a lot when I was there. I would go over and study them, hoping to figure out what it was.
 
I sometimes have a problem with the points not going across level and have to work on them. (Still can't figure out a good way to have them come across smoothly all of the time.) I also had to put in several gaps at different places to straighten out the electrical problems created with the addition of detection. Other than that, they hold in there pretty good.
 
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CJ, my wife remember's Willot's train shop. It sure would be nice to have a shop like that in Prattville today. :(
 


It was a great place! There was a case on the lt. wall as you walked in, and it held nothing but brass.:D
I remember this price, A PFM Southern RR. Ps-4 4-6-2, $49.99.

To a 10 yo kid, that was all the money in the world. When I could finally got one when I got out of college, $225.00!
That was 32 years ago.
 
CJ, yeah, I remember $50 brass too and thinking who in their right mind would pay that for a locomotive. Of course, I also remember 26 cent a gallon gas. :) Both Willots have gone to the big hobby shop in the sky and no one took their place. It's rather odd to think that Prattville back then, which was probably about 10,000 people, could support a train shop but then entire Montgomery area, which is about 250,000 people, can't support one train shop. Says something about the popularity of model railroading no matter what any polls say.
 
...Both Willots have gone to the big hobby shop in the sky and no one took their place. It's rather odd to think that Prattville back then, which was probably about 10,000 people, could support a train shop but then entire Montgomery area, which is about 250,000 people, can't support one train shop. Says something about the popularity of model railroading no matter what any polls say.

Our region has created a award to encourage new modelers after Will for the way he encouraged everyone who came in his shop. Its the Will Miller Award for the best model for an entrant in the contests whose never had an entry or never had a total of 100 points or more in the contests. We wanted to "eliminate" our most experienced contest entrants, as their participation in the contests were acting as a deterent to new entrants. Even though its really an individual competing against himself, a good 90% of the entrants believed it was a model against model competition and didn't want to "compete" against the likes of some of our MMRs, and continual contest entrants.

Jim, I find it no surprise at all. You had one of the most active areas in the SER there for years. The club that is (was?) in the backyard of Will and Lottie's old house I think is defunct, but an old member of that club who is a past SER pres, is still a resident of the area.

But I think there is new hope for the area. There is a new group there, that is building up a club. I sent you an e-mail about it. Might be good to start interacting with this group, if not join it. The more that MR is promoted, the more modelers start coming out of the woodwork.
 




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