Athrean RS3 sound
- Thread starter gmoore
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NYC_George
Well-Known Member
RS-3 dummy sound
I've seen one Atlas RS-3 that's was done. It's extremely hard to do. Even if you able to cut the frame reposition the motor mounts etc. The sound quality isn't going to be that great. Go down to the thread - Installing Soundtracks DCD1012LC into P2K SD60M - look at the photo I uploaded installing sound using a dummy RS-3. I also ran jumpers to make sure the sound unit stays powered. I still had to mill one weight and cut the frame to provide room for the dual speakers, but it sounds great.
NYC_George
I've seen one Atlas RS-3 that's was done. It's extremely hard to do. Even if you able to cut the frame reposition the motor mounts etc. The sound quality isn't going to be that great. Go down to the thread - Installing Soundtracks DCD1012LC into P2K SD60M - look at the photo I uploaded installing sound using a dummy RS-3. I also ran jumpers to make sure the sound unit stays powered. I still had to mill one weight and cut the frame to provide room for the dual speakers, but it sounds great.
NYC_George
The easiest thing to do would be use a Soundtrax replacement board. If I were to do it again, I might even go that way.
I did one using a TCS M1 for the motor/light functions and a Soundtrax DSX for sound. Mounting the decoders isn't that big a problem. The TSC will fit under the short hood and you can get the DSX to fit under the long hood.
The real trick is mounting the speaker. I used a 14 x 24mm mini oval. There really isn't enough room to use an enclosure, so I had to baffle it as best I could. It sounds okay, I intend on opening it up again at some time and try to get the baffle done better.
The other minor issue is some "overlapping" cv's with the two decoders. Best thing is to get the TCS set up first and use the decoder lock and then you can play with setting the DSX. Otherwise, you have to have one or the other wired alone and do it that way.
You might also figure a way to put a small round speaker in the cab. Would be a bit of work, but might end up easier to baffle.
I did one using a TCS M1 for the motor/light functions and a Soundtrax DSX for sound. Mounting the decoders isn't that big a problem. The TSC will fit under the short hood and you can get the DSX to fit under the long hood.
The real trick is mounting the speaker. I used a 14 x 24mm mini oval. There really isn't enough room to use an enclosure, so I had to baffle it as best I could. It sounds okay, I intend on opening it up again at some time and try to get the baffle done better.
The other minor issue is some "overlapping" cv's with the two decoders. Best thing is to get the TCS set up first and use the decoder lock and then you can play with setting the DSX. Otherwise, you have to have one or the other wired alone and do it that way.
You might also figure a way to put a small round speaker in the cab. Would be a bit of work, but might end up easier to baffle.
I have a TSC that fits after removing the jumper plug. Did you place the Soundtraxx on top of the adapter board? Wher did you put the speaker? Also how do you lock the decoder? I have a NCE PowerCab set-up.
I was looking at it and if I remove the adapter board I could replace whole thing with a Soundtraxx motor/sound board like you said. The speaker in the cab is going to be a trick to get in. I could try to fit a speaker in the rear Transmission cover(thats what the parts sheet calls it)
I was looking at it and if I remove the adapter board I could replace whole thing with a Soundtraxx motor/sound board like you said. The speaker in the cab is going to be a trick to get in. I could try to fit a speaker in the rear Transmission cover(thats what the parts sheet calls it)
I removed the original light board. Then I hardwired the TCS M1. The M1 is mounted on the Front Transmission cover. TCS decoders lock using CVs 15 & 16. I haven't locked mine yet, I played with settings as I was working, so I could do one or the other at a time.
I also removed the Rear Transmission Cover. When you do that, there was enough room to fit the Soundtrax DSX where the Rr Trans cover was.
The speaker is actually below the Soundtrax decoder. Front edge of the speaker is very close to the motor. The sound goes down, pretty much through the rear truck. Since the DSX is over the speaker, it's part of the baffle. Then I just used Kapton tape to close off openings to seal and baffle the speaker. With the body off, you can barely hear it at all. When the body is on, due to the small size, the sound gets much better. It's still a little quiet, I will work on it more to try to improve it.
I don't think the cab mounting would be that bad. Sure, some amount of cutting and probably "opening" at least one or two windows to let the sound out. I figure you might get a 3/4" round with a small enclosure in the cab.
FWIW, change the 1.5 volt light bulbs right away and use LEDs. I tried resistors on the bulbs first, miscalculated the value and burned them out quickly. Doesn't take long to so the LEDs. They will mount right in the notch on the frame. Then use 1/16" clear acrylic rod in the headlight housing for light pipe.
I think it you go with the Soundtrax replacement board, it would make it pretty easy. The board would be a one for one swap, so no space is used up. Then instead of mounting the speaker IN the Rear trans cover, remove the trans cover. There will be plenty of room for the mini oval then.
I also removed the Rear Transmission Cover. When you do that, there was enough room to fit the Soundtrax DSX where the Rr Trans cover was.
The speaker is actually below the Soundtrax decoder. Front edge of the speaker is very close to the motor. The sound goes down, pretty much through the rear truck. Since the DSX is over the speaker, it's part of the baffle. Then I just used Kapton tape to close off openings to seal and baffle the speaker. With the body off, you can barely hear it at all. When the body is on, due to the small size, the sound gets much better. It's still a little quiet, I will work on it more to try to improve it.
I don't think the cab mounting would be that bad. Sure, some amount of cutting and probably "opening" at least one or two windows to let the sound out. I figure you might get a 3/4" round with a small enclosure in the cab.
FWIW, change the 1.5 volt light bulbs right away and use LEDs. I tried resistors on the bulbs first, miscalculated the value and burned them out quickly. Doesn't take long to so the LEDs. They will mount right in the notch on the frame. Then use 1/16" clear acrylic rod in the headlight housing for light pipe.
I think it you go with the Soundtrax replacement board, it would make it pretty easy. The board would be a one for one swap, so no space is used up. Then instead of mounting the speaker IN the Rear trans cover, remove the trans cover. There will be plenty of room for the mini oval then.
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