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After years of GeoTrax, Thomas, and Tomy (Tomica) train sets my son wants the real thing. I've spent the last week or so gathering as much information as I can and my head is spinning ! So much to consider.
This isn't going to be some amazing permanent set but rather our entry into the model railroad world.
Thought I had settled on the nickel E-Z track until I started reading some negative stuff on the switches. Are we making a huge mistake going that route?
We're not looking for a layout with turnouts galore but just 2 or 3...thinking of something simple like this:
I don't want my son getting frustrated when his switches don't switch nor do i want to spend money on switches that don't switch.
The EZ-Track itself is OK but the turnouts (switches) leave a lot to be desired. For one they don't lock in position unless you get the manual-only model. The point rails don't sit flush against the stock rails. This can be corrected to an extent by lightly filing the end of the point rails so they sit flush with the stock rails. I got mine to work fairly reliably although I have a couple of locos that seem to be allergic to them. An easier fix is to substitute Atlas turnouts in place of the Bachmann turnouts. Just put cork roadbed under the Atlas pieces. You may have to add some shims of card stock as the Bachmann roadbed sits slightly higher.
Stopped by the train store to "look" and Grandma couldn't resist getting a starter Bachmann EZ track Santa Fe set to see how he does. I bought a EZ switch to see how it works and for the first few hours it's been great.
So, if that changes and I go the Atlas route what code do I need to get? Once I shim it to make it level with the EZ track I'm assuming it will fit via the joiners and the EZ lock flange thing (that locks it to another piece of EZ lock) will just be bypassed and won't interfere?
My son went the same route!
Its a natural progression from Thomas to the real stuff.
His interests turned when he saw that "Extreme Trains" episode with the UP 844. Ever since then it has been real trains all the way!
Its been such a great hobby for my son and I.
I started out with True Track and had a horrible experience with it.
I made the switch to KATO Uni-Track and have not looked back since.
For a young person starting out, I think it is such a good track. My son is now 6 and has had the Uni-Track for about 2 years now. Very durable and the switches have not given us any problems.
So, if that changes and I go the Atlas route what code do I need to get? Once I shim it to make it level with the EZ track I'm assuming it will fit via the joiners and the EZ lock flange thing (that locks it to another piece of EZ lock) will just be bypassed and won't interfere?
You'll need code 100 Atlas turnouts. The Atlas and Bachmann rail joiners are interchangeable. I frequently use Atlas nickel-silver rail joiners as replacements. The locking tab on the end of the EZ-Track roadbed won't interfere with the Atlas track. In fact when I put my Bachmann turnouts in I cut the tabs off the ends of the turnout and the end of the track sections they would connect to. That way if I have to replace a turnout in the future I can loosen the ballast, cut the rail joiners and lift the turnout out without disturbing the other pieces. at the point you're at you can use those tabs to your advantage. After you put the Atlas turnouts in place carefully place a nail in the hook part of the EZ-Track tab and tap it in so the head is below the top of the ties of the Atlas section. This will hold the Bachmann track sections so they won't spread apart and lose contact with the turnout. And you don't have to worry about pulling nails out of the track sections later.
Ive got about 12 ez track switches and almost all of them needed work to be usable. Some of the issues could be to the mismash of cars and wheels I have currently. But after using a dremel to grind the points and make sure the armature is in the correct location, they work ok, but only ok. Some derailments but usually only trying to back a 5 car passenger train through a #6 turnout or when cars aren't weighted correctly. Although they are remote capable, I only use them manually. You have to flip them one way or another pretty good or you will get a derailment. Its very easy to get in the middle if you arent paying attention or bump it,
I will be picking up my first DCC switch this coming week, we'll see how that goes.
I can't swap them though since I don't have a permanent layout and the set is setup and taken down all the time.
BTW, my son is 5 and he has a slew of electric thomas trains (all dcc) we run on this as well as "real" trains.
Jeffrey has always been very well satisfied with getting his EZ Track switches to work.
We went that route {at first} for our N scale layout. Bought a bunch of EZT and EZT switches to match- all manual.
We regreted it as soon as we put them into play. ANd fussing with them didn't seem to help much. Maybe we weren't doing it right, who knows.
We gave up and wasted a lot of money.
We can't GIVE the stuff away now.
Just our experience.
Galaxy: I had the same problem with N Scale EZ-Track turnouts as you. The N Scale turnouts are junk pure and simple. I substituted Atlas turnouts in their place just as I advised for the HO ones. Those who are mechanically inclined can tackle the problem with the HO EZ-Track turnouts the same way I did. Lightly file the ends of the point rails, bend the ends of the point rails slightly so they meet more firmly with the stock rail.
I bought five of these switches. Two worked perfectly out of the box, one required modification and two fell apart while I was trying to modify them to make them work. I do love the ez-track system, but I will never use the switches to make a layout again. It is best served on carpet with a non-permanent layout imo
My recommendation is to use Atlas turnouts in place of the Bachmann turnouts. The rail joiners are the same and it's easy to slip roadbed under the Atlas sections. I did it for three years until I took the time to learn to tweak the Bachmann turnouts.
I just got a new bachmann dcc turnout and there are a couple major improvements.
The rails have a triangle shape cut into them for the points to fit into, negating the need to thin them down with a file. You also have the choice to power the frog or not. Powering will not affect dcc operation. It feels like they are still using the same gear and steel rod mechanism to move the points. Programming with zephyr was easy, works with jrmi, and seems to operate well. Box says these are dcc only and to not use on dc track, but I would assume the same improvements are in the dc versions.
Chris
I just got a new bachmann dcc turnout and there are a couple major improvements.
The rails have a triangle shape cut into them for the points to fit into, negating the need to thin them down with a file. You also have the choice to power the frog or not. Powering will not affect dcc operation. It feels like they are still using the same gear and steel rod mechanism to move the points. Programming with zephyr was easy, works with jrmi, and seems to operate well. Box says these are dcc only and to not use on dc track, but I would assume the same improvements are in the dc versions.
Chris
I am new to all of this as of the first of this year. My layout is entirely Bachmann EZ Track. I agree that the turnouts leave something to be desired in the area of derailments. If I understand from the posts, I could swap the EZ Track switches for Atlas switches? Something to consider. Could anyone please give me the details and what has to be done?
My next question would the control panel. I designed a DC powered panel to control the switches. Not being familiar with how the Atlas switches work, would my control panel still work?
To start off, if you're using DC power to control Bachmann non-DCC turnouts you're going to burn out the switch machines in the turnouts. They're rated for AC.
The conversion of EZ-Track to Atlas turnouts is really easy. It just takes some time. First you need to cut the plastic connectors of the ends of the EZ-Track sections the Atlas turnout is going to connect to. This is to make room for the cork or foam roadbed you'll be putting in to support the turnout. If you decide not to cut the off there will be a gap at either end of the roadbed section. The Atlas turnouts can be put in with no further mechanical alterations. If I remember correctly the Atlas switch machines run on DC so don't connect them to the AC current the Bachmann machines use. Atlas and Bachmann rail joiners are fully compatible so there's no need to change them. It's that simple.
Thanks for your reply. As for the Ac vs DC, I know that Bachmann switches us eAC, but my using momentary DC current works just fine. Even some others have said that it will work. So I know firsthand that it does. Is the wiring for the Atlas switches the same? Three wire?
I think that Atlas switches come in different # sizes, so what ones would I use to be the same as the Bachmann standard turnout?
So, I understand about cutting off the tabs. So basically all I need is some cork road bed and some switches? Half of my layout is already ballasted, so will tear up some of that. But the end result of a much smoother switch will be worth it. This excites me.
First train show of the season is this Sunday, so Atlas switches will be added to the list.
EZ-Track comes in code 100 only unless they came out with something when I wasn't looking. Atlas turnouts come in two flavors. With switch machines and without. It's dead simple easy to add a switch machine to an Atlas turnout. As far as the actuator switch to make it work you can use the Atlas switch controller or you can use SPST push buttons mounted on your control panel. The Atlas #4 is the same as the Bachmann standard turnout. The Atlas switch machine uses three wires.
# 4 looks correct. Now what is the difference between the HO Remote Snap Switch and the HO Manual Snap Switch, other than price? How easy it to mount the remote switch under the layout? I would prefer not to have anything showing on top.
In looking at the two switches, it looks like the only difficult part, if you can call it that, is matching the track pieces for length. Probably would be best to use Code 100 pieces, rather than fool around with the EZ track.
Jeffrey, you have been a great help. What I may do is buy one this weekend and see how it all comes together. Then replace the remaining 8 switches.
Keep the computer on. I am sure I will have more questions down the line.
The switch machines will work with AC or DC, the coils don't care. What you don't want to do the keep the power applied. This is why the control (electric switch) is momentary, the power is applied for a second or so then you release the control to remove power to the switch machine.
! So much to consider.
