Applying stripes

[zoegraf]

I don't often use decals so if someone can give me some tips/techniques on how to apply long stripes on a model keeping them straight would be much appreciated.

 

[Artieiii]

Masking tape works well. It may take a couple tries to get the stripe the way you want it but as long as you take your time and get it "just right" before spraying the paint it works well. I have read about "frog tape" is supposed to be even better. I have not tried it yet. If you pull the tape off before the paint fully dries (still tacky) it makes the painted stripes less visible (paint lays down flatter). Here is an example. of taped stripes:

-Art

 

[CoolRuehle]

Using Decal Stripes

Be sure they are of good quality (Microscale, etc). If they are cheap, and are of a light color like yellow or white, and you put them over a dark color like black or blue, that dark color will show through.

To get a linear decal straight (any decal, could be a road name, a stripe, etc),

be sure to have a good coat of clear gloss over your color coat
use a LOT of water on the model as well as the decal

Lay out the decal in the general location it needs to go. Then gently pull it from side to side until it is straight. Keep adding water as you go, making sure the space between the decal and gloss coat is wet with water.

Once you have it where you need it, take the edge of a tissue and lightly wick up the excess water.

Once you have that excess removes, blot it some with a lightly dampened (not wet) paper towel.

If it looks good, apply decal setting solution.

Once this dries (wait a day or so), re-coat the whole thing with clear gloss, then weather, and clear flat.

--Jon

 

[CoolRuehle]

He was asking about decals, not masking. But if you mask,

the best tape out there is Tamiya masking tape. Why? It has the perfect stickiness.

I have tried 3m Blue, Frogtape, Post-it sheets, etc and NOTHING works like Tamiya.

http://www.atpkits.co.uk/catalog/images/Tamiya Tape 6mm.jpg

--Jon

 

[Mark R.]

I believe the OP is asking about decal stripes - not painting them.

When you have you decal down roughly where you need it, sight it from a long low angle down the length of the stripe - much the same as you do when laying flex-track. Any waves will be easy to see and correct.

Getting the decals to conform to all the details can also be frustrating. I use Microscale's Micro Set first. It will begin to soften the decal, but not to the point you can't still nudge it around. Once you have it in position, let the Microset finish working, them come back and apply Solvaset to fully set the decal. If the details over which the stripe is over are rather pronounced, or deep, I use a small sponge wheel and roll firmly over the decal - this will perfectly form the decal over those bumps and ridges. Otherwise, you'll get the decal film showing on either side of the ridges like the ones shown on the Ski Train above.


Mark.

 

[kjd]

I use water at first to set the decal on the model. Solvaset and other setting solutions soften it making it harder to move. I use the tip of a small brush and the tip of a #11 blade to position it by sighting down the line like Mark said. It helps if there is a line of hinges, doors or latches to help you keep it level. After its where I want it I carefully put on the decal setting solution. Here's a photo with a tough 1" wide stripe the whole length of the loco:

 

[Cjcrescent]

You can also use a straight piece of styrene to "push" it straight. I have used this method for many years, and it works better for me than my mark 1 eyeball. I used to use the stretch method and while it works well, you have to be extremely careful not to pull too much and break the decal.

 

[zoegraf]

Thank you all. Very informative.

I will practice on a piece of styrene. The decal stripe I'm using will be put over rivets. Yikes!