Anybody mount an N-Scale Local to display case?

[Sleeper]

I mounted 3 Diesel Locos in a glass display case last year and they keep coming loose when bumped into. I want to keep them in mint condition so I had mounted them using monofilament fishing line to Kato Unitrack and glued the track to the shelf.

I think the monofilament fishing line must be stretching with temperature changes and I’m think maybe wire might be better, but I don’t know what to use that will not be too visible. Each of the Locos is brand new and operable so they could be removed and used although that will not happen unless they end up in an estate sale, but I still want to keep it that way.

I also thought about removing the weights so it would not be heavy, but don’t want to lose them and want them stay with the locos.

I did something similar years ago and hot glued the wheels to the track, but the body came apart from the trucks. So any suggestions?

.

 

[viperjim1]

Don t remove the weights as this will make them lighter and more prone to falling over. And don't use wire as this will rub into the paint and plastic. Try some double sticky tape , the clear kind this may help, or put them somewhere in a plastic display case where they won't get bumped and they will still be protected.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Sleeper]

Thanks viperjim1, but I'm not sure if the tape will stretch out like the fishing line. When I first did the fishing line it was pretty tight and I could turn it upside down without any movement at all. Now only a year later, it moves enough to touch the glass. I just don't know what to do now.

 

[tootnkumin]

Get some fine, stranded electrical wire (about 6") and separate the strands. Take out the screws from the coupler boxes, and placing the screw at the mid-point of a wire strand, fold the strand around the screw thread close up under the head. Twist the wire around itself a few times only, so that the screw is firmly held. Bend it so it's in-line with the screw but away from the head. Replace the screws into the couplers/boxes.

You should now have 2 partly twisted wires with separated ends hanging down from under the loco. Drill holes through your track and base to line up with the wires. Lower the loco onto the track while passing the wires through the holes. Place a stick or nail across the bottom of the base-board between the tails of each of the tie-down wires and twist the wires together over those reasonably tightly. Cut off excess wire and fold down the ends against the board. This should give you a firm mounting and the wires should be hidden from view above by the loco's structure. If necessary, paint the wire black before installation on the track.

If they ever need to be removed, it's just a matter of cutting the twisted ends off.

 

[Sleeper]

hmm, that sounds pretty interesting and might just work. Thanks tootnkumin.

 

[tootnkumin]

Ah! Whether my idea will be useful to you is a moot point. Lesson to be learned here. Always post the pic with the question

 

[tootnkumin]

Another idea, if you can get long enough threaded 2/56 rod (most but not all coupler screws are that thread) and use that to extend down from the coupler boxes and secure both the boxes with nuts wound down against them and washers and nuts under the shelves.

 

[Sleeper]

I was looking at the coupler boxes and they don’t look very strong compared to the weight of the locos. I may have to wrap the wire around the frame and motor and snap the body over the wire.


Anyway I found this 22 Gauge Colored Jewelry Wire that comes in black and it’s not that expensive. I don’t know what gauge wire strand would come out of a piece stranded Wire, but 22 Gauge might work, I think.


http://www.amazon.com/Beadalon-Arti...ant-Silver/dp/B000SOVVHO/ref=pd_bxgy_ac_img_y

 

[tootnkumin]

I was forgetting this is N scale and any screws are going to be very small and the couplers may be truck mounted anyway. Sorry about that. 22 gauge wire should be OK. You might get away with just a single tie-down. Will depend on how close the body fit is over the frame. Can you pass the wire in a loop over the trucks behind the wheels?

 

[Skipjacks]

Just use a tiny, and I mean tiny dab of hot glue on the wheels that are against the back of the case. You won't see it in the display. And it will easily peel off if you want to take the train out and run it again.

And it'll hold the wheels on the track forever in the mean time.

If you are careful it'll be just enough to touch the bottom of the metal wheels and won't get up into the gearing system.

 

[Sleeper]

Just use a tiny, and I mean tiny dab of hot glue on the wheels that are against the back of the case. You won't see it in the display. And it will easily peel off if you want to take the train out and run it again.

And it'll hold the wheels on the track forever in the mean time.

If you are careful it'll be just enough to touch the bottom of the metal wheels and won't get up into the gearing system.

I did that before and it only lasted 1 to 2 years before falling apart.