ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Online since 2002, it's one of the oldest and largest model railroad forums on the web. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.
I did a test of the wiring on my GMRC build and everything works great, except for the lift gate. That section is completely dead! I was under the impression I just needed to wire a single set of feeder wires to the track and connect it to the bus wire and that would be it. Am I forgetting something? I’ve never made a lift gate before so perhaps I’m overlooking the simplest concept.
Here’s the basic concept:
The wire on the right is the main power from the DCC panel which feeds into the terminal block. The feeder wire for the lift gate splits off and allows the rest of the bus wire to continue with all the T-taps for other feeders and frog juicers, etc, etc.
Hmm that should work just fine.
Try a light or meter across the gaps when the gate is closed, that will at least show which wire is at fault?
Just thinking, even if the colors were crossed you'd at least have a short.
You could also try switching the positions of the two blacks and two reds on the block for the heck of it, in case the jumper terminals aren’t connecting?
I can not see the terminal block close enough but it looks like there is nothing on the top and bottom wires on the block. They need jumpers to the bus wires or just move them in one position to the other bus wires
Hmm that should work just fine.
Try a light or meter across the gaps when the gate is closed, that will at least show which wire is at fault?
Just thinking, even if the colors were crossed you'd at least have a short.
You could also try switching the positions of the two blacks and two reds on the block for the heck of it, in case the jumper terminals aren’t connecting?
I switched positions of the wires as that was one of my first thoughts but that didn’t do anything unfortunately.
I created an extra set of feeder wires and connected them to the terminal block to see if it would work and the locomotive worked great! So now the issue is the feeder wire or Model Tech power feeder itself. It is soldered to the track but perhaps I got a “dud” in the pack?
I will double check to make sure the contact points for the power feeder are touching the rails and resolder. If that doesn’t work, at least I know if I solder a new set of feeder wires to the rails, it will work
I can not see the terminal block close enough but it looks like there is nothing on the top and bottom wires on the block. They need jumpers to the bus wires or just move them in one position to the other bus wires
I believe I have isolated the issue to the model tech power feeder itself. It is either faulty or not making proper contact with the rails. My plan for tomorrow is to resolder it to the rails, perhaps with a little additional pressure so that I make sure full contact has been made. If that doesn’t work, I’ll try soldering the feeder wires directly to the rails.
I believe I have isolated the issue to the model tech power feeder itself. It is either faulty or not making proper contact with the rails. My plan for tomorrow is to resolder it to the rails, perhaps with a little additional pressure so that I make sure full contact has been made. If that doesn’t work, I’ll try soldering the feeder wires directly to the rails.
Gilford: Volt/Ohm meter is your friend. With power applied, have DCC at the inputs of the terminal block? DCC at both of the secondaries? If not, without power, have continuity between both wires through the terminal block? Good starting point me thinks.
Gilford: Volt/Ohm meter is your friend. With power applied, have DCC at the inputs of the terminal block? DCC at both of the secondaries? If not, without power, have continuity between both wires through the terminal block? Good starting point me thinks.
Thanks for the feedback! I did test with a volt meter. I don’t know if my volt meter is just old or was acting up but it wasn’t giving me consistent results. It did show VERY low voltage however so I decided that if any power was getting through, it wasn’t going to be enough to do anything. I opted to create a secondary and temporary set of feeders to use as a backup and see whether or not the first set was faulty. This was certainly the case so now that I’ve isolated the issue, I can move forward from there
A long time ago, I got into the habit of putting the meter in the resistance function and shorting the leads together as the
first thing to do before using the meter. Per your post, I've also experienced broken leads.
A long time ago, I got into the habit of putting the meter in the resistance function and shorting the leads together as the
first thing to do before using the meter. Per your post, I've also experienced broken leads.
I took a couple hours last night and not only replaced the power feeder with a new set of wires soldered directly to the tracks but I also replaced the entire bridge track section itself. More on that later on the GMRC build thread. Problem solved and everything is operational
I took a couple hours last night and not only replaced the power feeder with a new set of wires soldered directly to the tracks but I also replaced the entire bridge track section itself. More on that later on the GMRC build thread. Problem solved and everything is operational
I agree! However, I examined the model tech power feeder after cutting it from the track and it shows no signs of damage. I also checked the wires soldered to it to make sure they weren’t broken or cracked and they were fine too. Very odd and a mystery for sure but I guess it’ll remain a cold case until new evidence comes into the picture haha.
I agree! However, I examined the model tech power feeder after cutting it from the track and it shows no signs of damage. I also checked the wires soldered to it to make sure they weren’t broken or cracked and they were fine too. Very odd and a mystery for sure but I guess it’ll remain a cold case until new evidence comes into the picture haha.
The only way to be sure would be to use a multimeter and run continuity from one end of that wire or the other.
That would probably tell the tale.
Could possibly of been a cold solder joint?
The only way to be sure would be to use a multimeter and run continuity from one end of that wire or the other.
That would probably tell the tale.
Could possibly of been a cold solder joint?
That parts did not get heated up enough for the solder to stick or bond together like it should. There was enough heat to melt the solder but not make a good bond
Like AC said but a little more. To recap: Cold solder joint can also be from not heating up both parts, I.E. wire got hot enough, but rail did not. Since the rail did not get hot enough, solder will not flow proper.
Can also be because one of the connections is dirty; hence not good heat transfer. You can always tell - A good solder joint is bright and shiny with solder flow on both connections..bad is a dull gray with bubbles or space between ( in this case ) the rail and wire; you may also see remnants of flux between the joints too.
And always remember to grab one of the connections ( if possible ) and give it a yank to test the mechanical connection.
