Airbrushes

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mopacbuff

Missori Pacific RR
Gents,

As I am jumping back into the hobby with both feet, I think I may need an airbrush for painting stuff.

Please tell me your thoughts and recommendations on them. Brands/models? Techniques? Best paints to use?

I have an air compressor now (I do quite a bit of woodworking), but I assume I'll need a regulator, etc to make it work (if it WILL work).

Fire at will.

MPB
 
MPB, look for a airbrush that you can get parts for locally. If you can stay away from the cheep ones. I have badger. I have 4 different models and use them all. A top feed is good for most jobs. a siphon is nice for the bigger jobs so you don't have to keep refilling all the time. I have a Crescendo 175 and you can get different needles for it for doing fine, medium and heavy painting. It is a siphon gun but has a side cup so you don't have to mix up a lot of paint for a small job. Also look for a dual action air brush, that way you can control the air and paint while shooting. A single action you control the air only and have to make a adjustment to change the spray pattern. You can get a heavy duty braded cover hose or a plastic one. you can also get a quick disconects so you don't have to screw the hoses on and off. If you need more info PM me. Dale :)
 


Thanks gents,

I read through those threads and I'm tempted to try out the HF unit for starters. There's a HF not far from me and I buy other goodies there all the time.

Now all I have to find is an external regulator to reduce and control the output pressure from my compressor (the regulator knob on mine got knocked off at a job site, now it runs at 120psi all the time, good for nail guns, but prolly not so much for an airbrush).

MPB
 
Thanks gents,

I read through those threads and I'm tempted to try out the HF unit for starters. There's a HF not far from me and I buy other goodies there all the time.

Now all I have to find is an external regulator to reduce and control the output pressure from my compressor (the regulator knob on mine got knocked off at a job site, now it runs at 120psi all the time, good for nail guns, but prolly not so much for an airbrush).

MPB

HF has those as well. Depending on the model, they'll run from $5 to over $30.
 
I have two airbrushes, both badger. One is a badger 250. It's a simple external siphon feed airbrush that I use for enamel and laquer paints. It's a good beginer airbrush because of it's simplicity and ease of use. It's pretty inxpensive as well
The other brush is a badger 200, a internal mix single action with a medium tip. I use it for water-bases acrylics because it atomizes the paint better than the pervious brush. I also use it for weathering due to it's ability to control paint volume.
 
You'll want to consider a water/oil separater also to run out of the line. Keeps the condensation from getting out into the paint. I've had it happen, you get little droplets in your work. Drain your tank often, so it don't rust out from the inside, had that happen also.

I use Badger, Paasche, I have a couple friends that like Iwata.
 
I have a pair of Iwatas and like them. Continental Art Supply in Reseda, CA carries a full line of replacement parts. The airbrush expert there is very helpful and he knows what he's doing! That was why I chose Iwata.

I also have a 40 year old Binks that is OK for painting large areas.

I prefer models with the bottle feed method and have the cap & tube that fits Floquil bottles. Very handy. I bored a bottle-sized hole in a block of hardwood that won't tip over to rest the airbrush in when I need to pause the spraying.


I bought a portable Porter Cable compressor and love it for air brushing. The tank dampens the pump's pulsations. It has outlet pressure regulator and control knob and tank pressure gauges built in. It powered the nail gun for building the layout too! :)
 
The three big names for hobbyists are Badger, Paasche, and Iwata. I own several of all three brands and one or two others. The HF air brushes are cheap Chinese knockoffs and will work, but their assembly and quality are spotty. Parts can also be hard to come by, but they are so cheap that you can just buy another one and cannibalize it if you have to.

If you have not airbrushed before, I would not recommend these knockoff brushes, simply for the reason that I would prefer to see beginners painting, not fiddling with their equipment trying to make it work and getting frustrated if it doesn't.

We all have different size hands and different tastes, so I'd suggest you try some local craft or hobby stores and get your hands on the three major brands. It should feel good in your hands, and the trigger action should be smooth, not sticky. Badgers have slim bodies and people with smaller hands will like them. Their quality is good, parts are available, and they are not overly expensive. Try the Anthem for a siphon feed, or the Patriot for a gravity feed. Paasches have chunkier bodies, so if your hands are larger you might like one of these. I'd recommend the Millenium for a siphon feed or a Talon for a Gravity feed. They are also reasonably priced and parts are easy to find. Iwata is very good. They also tend to be a little more expensive, but they are more rugged and tend to be higher quality. Parts are easy to find, but more expensive than Badger or Paasche. The upsde here is that you won't need many. Their needles and nozzles, the two most likely things you'll damage, are made out of tougher materials than Badger or Paasche. I have been using an Iwata for three years as my main airbrush and have not yet needed any parts. I'd recommend their Eclipse HP-BCS for a siphon feed or their Eclipse HP-CS for a gravity feed.

Siphon feeders are good if you're going to shoot a lot of paint.

Gravity feeders are easier to clean, allow you to use less paint...just a few drops if you want and, can shoot at lower pressures because they don't have to suck the paint out of a bottle.

Definitely go with an internal mix double action. The added capability is a must IMO. Single action brushes don't allow you the flexibility or fine control of what you are spraying that a double action brush will, and internal mix brushes atomize the paint much better than an external mix brush will.

Do a little research on the net. Check out prices. Deals can be had.

Hope this helps. :D
 
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Ok Gents,

I think I've decided to try a HF unit to experiment and get my feet wet with. I'll go there next weekend and get that and a regulator set up for my compressor. But a coupla questions;

Floquil or Polly S paint?

How thin do I need to make the paint to shoot well?

Normal operating pressure for painting locos etc?

Thanks

MPB
 


You'll have to try both. The market exists for both. It's personal taste.

My preference is for Floquil because I grew up with it and I'm careful about the fumes. :D They can make you loopy if you don't take proper precautions.

I think Floquil can't be beat for durability. I have brass locos I bake-painted 35 years ago that are still perfect with no chips. Recent times they changed the solvent so you can shoot on plastic without melting it. Before you had to shoot "barrier" first.

I shoot Floquil straight out of the bottle at about 25-psi. It keeps the paint looking flat with no gloss. Thinning seems to make a glossier coat and encourages runs. I like the paint to hit the surface almost dry. If you go too far, it starts to look like flocking instead of paint. Buy some old used $1.00 Tyco or similar boxcars and practice on them first.
 
Ok Gents,

I think I've decided to try a HF unit to experiment and get my feet wet with. I'll go there next weekend and get that and a regulator set up for my compressor. But a coupla questions;

Floquil or Polly S paint?

How thin do I need to make the paint to shoot well?

Normal operating pressure for painting locos etc?

Thanks

MPB

The H.F. will be fine to get going, you can always move up if it's something you like doing.

I still like Floquil paints, even though they changed it, I do thin it with Dupont Automotive Lacquer Thinner but I do spray in a booth to exhaust the fumes. I generaly run about 20-25 PSI.
I know a guy who paints profesionally and he only uses Scalecoat Paints, they are an enamel but he too thins it with Dupont Lacquer Thinner. Check his stuff out it's super nice, way better than I could ever do. http://www.dynamicmodels.net/Gallery.html
A friend of mine (on here too) uses only Acrylics, not sure who's

One more note on Air Brushes,
the Badgers I have are "Dual Action" and the Paasche is a "Single Action". The Dual is you have control of how much air is coming out the tip and how much paint is flowing. Single Action you just push down the button, the more you press the more air and paint comes out. The Dual is nice for weathering or doing real fine touches.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Ok Gents,

I think I've decided to try a HF unit to experiment and get my feet wet with. I'll go there next weekend and get that and a regulator set up for my compressor. But a coupla questions;

Floquil or Polly S paint?

How thin do I need to make the paint to shoot well?

Normal operating pressure for painting locos etc?

Thanks

MPB

Depends in you. Floquil is a solvent based paint. Thins with Xylene or Xylol. Toxic, stinky, and requires ventilation, a respirator and gloves. your respirator should have canisters rated for organic solvent vapors. A dust mask won't get it

Polly S is water based. Thin with water. Badger Modelflex is also water based, and is airbrush ready. No thinning. Thin to the consistency of skim milk. Shoot at 20-25 PSI.
 
Here's something that I haven't seen mentioned as yet. The HF brush is a clone of the Badger Anthem and Badger parts do fit this brush if you ever need to find repair parts for it.

But as someone else has said, they're cheap enough that if you need parts you can just buy a new one! During Christmas and right after, they were on sale for $7.00!
 
Here's something that I haven't seen mentioned as yet. The HF brush is a clone of the Badger Anthem and Badger parts do fit this brush if you ever need to find repair parts for it.

But as someone else has said, they're cheap enough that if you need parts you can just buy a new one! During Christmas and right after, they were on sale for $7.00!

If you check here: http://airbrushtips.110mb.com/Harbor Freight Airbrush.html
You'll find some interesting facts about the HF airbrush. First, it is not an Anthem clone. There are significant differences in the needle/nozzle combo, so if you do try and fit Badger parts, be sure and fit both needle and nozzle. The link goes to a very good review on this airbrush. Check it out before you buy one.
 
Harbor Freight sells at least 2 different styles of airbrushes. One is a simple single action and the other is the more complex double-action. I last checked when I stopped in to get an air hose for the double-action model on Monday.

On the opposite note i.e. removing paint, HF sells an air eraser that is stocked right next to the airbrushes. I am in the process of hooking mine up to test how it works using baking soda to remove stubborn paint and lettering.

I got the double-action airbrush and the air eraser just after Christmas and it was about $15.00 for the pair of them. Even if full price they are not that much.
 




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