Affordable Layout Table Materials

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railfan

junk collector
One thing I've noticed while exploring model train forums and sites is there are so many good and different ways to build a layout table and a variety of available materials to use for very little money.

Since beginning my first layout table using a slab door covered edge to edge with 1/8" cork, I've seen some other effective and very inexpensive materials I will try out on my next module. Figuring out how to glue the cork sheets onto the door so they stick permanently while getting them aligned and straight took a bit longer than I hoped, but in the end it worked ok. Now that I've done it...should be easier next time (ask me if you want some tips on this). I thought this would be less time and effort than cutting cork roadbeds and laying them under the track, but either could have been done in roughly same amount of time.....that is......if your track design is ready to go. Mine was not.

Another reason for avoiding raised track beds, mountains, grades, etc., at this stage....this being my first layout I knew some track changes would be happening for a while until I settle on something I like that works....and get the wiring and polarity rules figured out. There's going to be a big freight yard with many switches. Next module can be for learning to do more landscaping.

Back to the topic, the 36" x 80" door ($24) is an ok way to go and I did not have to use a saw to cut anything in the winter outside since I have an apartment. Now it's already 70-75 degrees in March so cutting 1" x 3" lumber on my porch for the table frame and legs will be easy.

Some folks have lots of room and resources which is fine......but for now I'm enjoying how N scale, being small and lightweight, obviously can work well without heavy duty structure and mega framework. At Lowes building center I get bundles of six 1" x 3" x 8 foot sticks for $8 or less, to make light yet sturdy support frames and table legs....and to use as fascia and to make a lip around the table edge to keep train wrecks from falling off onto the floor.

Lately I've seen more pictures of layout platforms made with celotex fiberboard that comes in 4' x 8' sheets for around $9. This material is also called soundboard since it's made for sound insulation in buildings and has a similar effect as cork for reducing train noise. Some HO people with bigger layouts use a plywood base under the celotex.....but for a cheap and quick medium size N scale table you could use a few extra cross supports and just the celotex would be fine. Of course you wouldn't want to store firewood or barbells on top of this.....but after all it only needs to hold N scale stuff.

I bought some new-tech self drilling and counter-sinking wood screws that should go right through the soft pine one-by frame sticks without pre-drilling. These screws are a bit pricey though at $8 per box of 100....but they work great and save time. You could use drywall or deck screws for less money.

So if you're considering building an N scale layout table.....with these low cost and lightweight materials....you'll have an adequate, functional table and frame....and easily stay within budget. :)
 
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Building materials that these 'new builds' use are drywall/Sheetrock & flake/chip/particle board (take your pick) are cheap and that turns me off, especially at the price of new houses (I love old homes, pre WWII). Especially flakeboard when used on roofs, in spite of the cheaper price. But, I understand it is suppose to be better at not wrapping (as long as it doesn't get wet) than regular thinner plywood.

Amazing how popular 2" rigid foamboard (pink or blue, not white) is now, just by itself. I could never see using a door for a table. ;)
 
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Two reasons for using a door, 1.) seemed a popular way for doing modular N scale layouts with many track designs based on various door widths. 2.) door is already finished size....no cutting or trimming necessary.....and a very flat surface.

For a second module....considering either thin plywood or chipboard (not particle board), or celotex....keeping thickness to a half inch maximum....to reduce length of music wire servo pushrods for switches.
 
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"Door Layouts" are great!! when I got into Nscale I would build three or four of them bring them to shows throw a power pack and a small train and would go home empty handed on Sunday.
L
 
Hollow Core doors are great, and even the 2" thick foam is good for smaller layouts but it can be fragile and gets gouges in it easily.

Avoid the 1/4" chipboard. That will warp super easy and you will need to make a good solid frame under it, you can't just go with the board by itself it is way to flimsy.

Right now I am building a small 2'x3' layout on a thick piece of cabinet grade wood.
 
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Hollow Core doors are great, and even the 2" thick foam is good for smaller layouts but it can be fragile and gets gouges in it easily.

Avoid the 1/4" chipboard. That will warp super easy and you will need to make a good solid frame under it, you can't just go with the board by itself it is way to flimsy.

Right now I am building a small 2'x3' layout on a thick piece of cabinet grade wood.
I edited my original post and removed the part about using the 1/4" chipboard. Agreed, it's probably too thin.
 
My local door shop gives away (free) the old doors the take off. Some are still pretty good. A cheap renew is to laminate a fresh 1/4" Luan door skin over the whole thing for about 11 bucks. It's a fine grade plywood sometimes made from mahogany. I also use it to remake a dastroyed card table top to make it look better than new. Apply resin or Varethane to it & will last for years. Back to the layout: for small layout try to think outside the box to achieve the lightest results. I also like the use of drywall screws cause they come in so many lengths and are cheap.
 
Since the Mid 80s I have used a sandwich of peg-board and Styrofoam (construction grade). .....................................-1- I cut the peg board to the size and shape I want/need. ..................-2- Then I cut 1x4 (or 1x3) long frame runners and fasten them with wood screws that tighten flat w/o pulling thru. ......................-3- Then I measure and cut cross member supports. The edge frame boards are set back 2-3" from the edge for mounting electronics etc. ..................-4- I then glue the Styrofoam (cut to match the peg-board base) to the peg board and also use a few wood screws so it stays in place form many years. ...................-5- what I end up with a light-weight yet sturdy layout. ............I paint my layout tables green and still use cork roadbed (personal choice). I have modified my trackage several times over the decades of using the same tables w/o any problems yet. I pin my track using regular track nails. For wires I poke holes from underneath using nearest peg hole and angle the nail if needed. Easy to wire. I left the plywood (chipwood) club ages ago, and celotex I used once and did not care for it. JD
 




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