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Some may say, its dumb. Some will say its unique and never done before. I say why not? Thought about it a while back and thought to myself why not create a 21st century B unit and possibly a A-B-B-A set. The F7's, E8/9's are great looking locomotives and the P40/42 is as close to a Modern day F7/E8 we'll ever get to see.
So here is a quick pic of the project. It was a pita. I had no tape measure or ruler. Crappy set up with that aluminum miter box and hack saw. Had to use a huge file to try and make it as close as possible. But i had to shore up the joints inside with some left over shell material. I now need to fill in the gaps with some green putty. Im just worried that it will crack over time if the shell is removed often. Also need to patch the roof where the horn would be, smooth the antenna mounts and fill in all the windows on the side's.
Interesting creation, to say the least. I would fill in the one big window but leave the door windows since FRA regs require entry and exit doors to have windows. You should put gussets of thin styrene over the cracks from the inside before you fill them with putty. That should make the structure plenty strong. If it still seems shaky, run some more vertical and horizontal styrene gussets on the inside so it feels solid. I've never though of a "real" B unit for modern engines but, if worked for the last generation of railroaders, I suppose it could work now.
UP, they require windows on the doors? How come the newer P42's and NJT's PL42ac's dont have windows on the side doors or rear door on the long hood? Just strange that even the side doors behind what was athe cab would need windows.
Anyway, going to the local or well slightly out of the way hobby shop since its the only one with a god selection. Going to pick up some more styrene, maybe see if they have the details west super detail kit in stock. Also see if they can get ahold of some more blue box amd-103 kits since everyone i bid on ebay gets outbid and sells for a ridiculous amount of money even after not selling the previous 3 times.
NYSW, a cabless B unit that requires entry from trackside would now require windows as a safety measure to prevent a crew member from opening the door into an oncoming train. Obviously, there aren't many B units with no cabs that require entry from trackside. Your unit would fall under those rules, though.
NYSW, a cabless B unit that requires entry from trackside would now require windows as a safety measure to prevent a crew member from opening the door into an oncoming train. Obviously, there aren't many B units with no cabs that require entry from trackside. Your unit would fall under those rules, though.
It is going to be a Ac6000B unit. the shell is cracked in a couple places (too ,many stripping agents), so either I have to putty it up or get a new shell. Decisions decisions.......
I'm working on a F-40PH A-B-B-A set (no, I haven't gotten past the acquisition stage yet, still looking for steals on Lifelike F-40's... I have 2 so far out of the 8 powered unit's i'm gonna need...)
Well the project should get a good kick in the pants by next week. I ordered 2 Athearn/Walthers P42 in the shamoo paint scheme, and won another dummy engine along with two others beinig purchased. so it should be in high gear soon.
Thats gonna look cool when done, can't wait to see it. Instead of green putty have you ever thought of using CA? Thats what I do. Add Gap filling CA, then I add a few drops of Accelerator for CA. after a few minutes you can sand it down. In my opinion its stronger then green putty, won't crack and smoother as well
Thats gonna look cool when done, can't wait to see it. Instead of green putty have you ever thought of using CA? Thats what I do. Add Gap filling CA, then I add a few drops of Accelerator for CA. after a few minutes you can sand it down. In my opinion its stronger then green putty, won't crack and smoother as well
Excellent idea, thanks. I had thought about using plastic expoxy. That stuff that smells worse then a rhino's butt on a hot summer day and has to be mixed.
But looks like i'll be making a stop somewhere for this stuff. Now I wish I had bought the thick stuff a few weeks ago instead of the really thin stuff for gluing to brass pieces together.
forgot to add that my 2 athearn/walthers P42's got delivered to my mothers. going to pick those up tomorrow along with hacking up the 2 shells i have hear at the apartment. Then hopefully test fit the newer style athearn motors with the dcc plug/light board with clips for older trucks. Then fill gaps with styrene, thicker glue where needed. Some green putty where needed. And I found some nice thin masking tape so i can mask off the shamu wave without the tape binding up when curved (1/8" wide)
I would fill in the one big window but leave the door windows since FRA regs require entry and exit doors to have windows. You should put gussets of thin styrene over the cracks from the inside before you fill them with putty. That should make the structure plenty strong. If it still seems shaky, run some more vertical and horizontal styrene gussets on the inside so it feels solid. I've never though of a "real" B unit for modern engines but, if worked for the last generation of railroaders, I suppose it could work now.
