A Beginner's Journey Pt 2

[Jacob Z]

Just laid another meter of flex track on a curve and waiting for the latex to dry. I'm seriously thinking about reverting to set track for the remaining curves because it is such a faff. This is the last bit of 15" radius, the remainder are 12" and 9" (in the yard). Fortunately, Peco's code 80 set track is compatible with its code 55 flex track.

 

[Jacob Z]

Ballasting the most recent two meters of track. I've saturated it with glue, but based on the previous sections I've done, I will need to do it again tomorrow.

I feel like I'm getting proficient at ballasting just in time to be finished with it I'm getting better at doing narrower (more prototypical) shoulders. I'm also thinking that on my next layout I might skip the foam underlay. The shoulders won't be as high, but it does make ballasting a whole lot easier. I have a little doohickey that spreads ballast both between the tracks and along the outside, and if it weren't for the underlay, that would be it. I would also probably only need one pass with the glue.

 

[Jacob Z]

One thing I'm struggling with is how to drop power feeders on the elevated section. I wish I'd thought that through much earlier. I'm beginning to see the wisdom of doing track first...

 

[Jacob Z]

YAY! I finally have a completed loop (actually, it's a folded up-and-over figure 8, where a climb to a hilltop crosses over while the track underneath runs through a decent-sized tunnel). I can run trains continuously, although still ironing out a couple of rough spots that sometimes cause the leading loco truck to derail. Almost there.

I'm also having some issues with my yard engine, which seems to stall a lot, and in one spot as it goes through a turnout it brings everything to a complete halt, which makes me wonder if it's somehow shorting when it crosses the frog (unpowered)?

Anyway, light at the end of the tunnel. Will post video soon.

 

[Jacob Z]

Also: LESSONS LEARNED: I hate tracklaying, especially connecting two lengths of flex track, and especially especially on a curve.

Next time, I am very much inclined to do set track, maybe even unitrack.

I might also skip the foam underlay, it feels like overkill.

 

[ctclibby]

Also: LESSONS LEARNED: I hate tracklaying, especially connecting two lengths of flex track, and especially especially on a curve.

Next time, I am very much inclined to do set track, maybe even unitrack.

I might also skip the foam underlay, it feels like overkill.

Jacob: For the flex, you might try connecting the 2 pieces together, solder - then create your curve. Make sure the expansion tie joints are on the same side. At one time I would slide the ties and/or rail to get good mating tie distances which required the rail sliding into the tie's rail holder. BS, thought I, now I just cut out the necessary ties, do the work then glue in either newly cut wood ties or the remnants of the removal pile where necessary. Ya, you have to stain those wood ties but you can get them to a shade with a pretty close match. After ballasting, nobody knows but you.

With the foam underlay, all it does it to raise the roadbed up above the surrounding ground which in the 1:1 case accounts for drainage. I assume that you are not using the foam to hold track/rail nails and gluing stuff down? Cork roadbed will hold nails somewhat.

L8r

 

[Jacob Z]

ctlibby: I did successfully solder two pieces for one long curve, and yes that made it a lot easier. The second one, the two parts still separated when I tried to curve the track which I guess says something about my soldering skills :-( Anyway, that's another lesson learned for next time!

I agree, the foam underlay does make it more realistic, but it also makes for twice as much ballasting work. I really need to work on my patience in order to enjoy this hobby more.

And yes, I'm gluing stuff down. I'm using Alex Plus acrylic latex cork, which I saw recommended elsewhere. I like it because it's not rigid when set, and also has good working time for adjustments.

ETA: The rail that slides goes on the inside of the curve, right?

 

[Jacob Z]

Here's a pic of my loco with some freight, bridges in the background. I will try to make video later.

 

[Guilford Railman]

I really need to work on my patience in order to enjoy this hobby more.

This is probably the most important skill to develop/have in order to get the most enjoyment from the hobby.

I used to get so frustrated at my lack of soldering skills that I did in fact switch to Unitrack for a time. Eventually I realized that the only way to grow in the hobby was to push my limits. This new layout I’m building incorporates everything I’ve always thought was too difficult for me to accomplish. It’s taken me a while but I guess I was wrong about it all, who knew!

 

[Jacob Z]

This is probably the most important skill to develop/have in order to get the most enjoyment from the hobby.

I used to get so frustrated at my lack of soldering skills that I did in fact switch to Unitrack for a time. Eventually I realized that the only way to grow in the hobby was to push my limits. This new layout I’m building incorporates everything I’ve always thought was too difficult for me to accomplish. It’s taken me a while but I guess I was wrong about it all, who knew!

Thanks. I need to keep reminding myself that I have already exceeded my own expectations in areas like scenery and kit building.

My next project is to add some audio to the buildings, controlled by an Arduino, so my soldering skills are going to get a workout.

 

[ctclibby]

Thanks. I need to keep reminding myself that I have already exceeded my own expectations in areas like scenery and kit building.

My next project is to add some audio to the buildings, controlled by an Arduino, so my soldering skills are going to get a workout.

Soldering is an art. The more you do, the better it will be and the more you will enjoy it. There are a ton of 'how to' things on the web. #1 thing to remember - materials and solder tip are hospital clean. #2 is proper heat. Play around with the heat for awhile. You will get better.

L8r

 

[Guilford Railman]

Thanks. I need to keep reminding myself that I have already exceeded my own expectations in areas like scenery and kit building.

My next project is to add some audio to the buildings, controlled by an Arduino, so my soldering skills are going to get a workout.

With a project like that, you’re sure to become much more skilled with soldering!

 

[Jacob Z]

I've been running some trains for a week now and I'm feeling pretty happy. All of my curves are navigable, none of my track joins cause derailments (I was able to fix the one bad spot), and my 3% inclines are not causing any issues.

Now I'm running in my yard engine, which I read is a thing I'm supposed to do.

 

[Jacob Z]

Welp, this is a bit frustrating. There is one rough spot in my track laying where my yard engine (an EMD NW2 from Broadway Limited) stalls, and of course it's inside the tunnel where I can't reach. My Heavy Pacific gets through there just fine, so maybe the answer is just to not let my yard engine out of the yard... but it's always going to nag at me.

It's frustrating on several levels because I spent a lot of time checking that particular stretch of track before I built the tunnel over it, and it worked fine at the time. However, I only tested with the Heavy Pacific as I hadn't yet bought the NW2. And I went to some trouble to leave access points to reach stuck or derailed vehicles in the tunnel, which turn out to be not quite large enough for me to reach that spot.

I might have to buy a track cleaning car.

 

[Guilford Railman]

Welp, this is a bit frustrating. There is one rough spot in my track laying where my yard engine (an EMD NW2 from Broadway Limited) stalls, and of course it's inside the tunnel where I can't reach. My Heavy Pacific gets through there just fine, so maybe the answer is just to not let my yard engine out of the yard... but it's always going to nag at me.

It's frustrating on several levels because I spent a lot of time checking that particular stretch of track before I built the tunnel over it, and it worked fine at the time. However, I only tested with the Heavy Pacific as I hadn't yet bought the NW2. And I went to some trouble to leave access points to reach stuck or derailed vehicles in the tunnel, which turn out to be not quite large enough for me to reach that spot.

I might have to buy a track cleaning car.

If it’s always going to nag you then take the time to fix it now before you get further into the project.

I just started a rebuild of a section of mainline on my layout that I had up and running for a week because the curves weren’t able to handle the freight cars I wanted. I miscalculated the tightness of the radius.

I chose to rebuild and it will definitely pay off in the long run and leave me feeling happier in the end. You should try and do the same if you can.

 

[Jacob Z]

If it’s always going to nag you then take the time to fix it now before you get further into the project.

I just started a rebuild of a section of mainline on my layout that I had up and running for a week because the curves weren’t able to handle the freight cars I wanted. I miscalculated the tightness of the radius.

I chose to rebuild and it will definitely pay off in the long run and leave me feeling happier in the end. You should try and do the same if you can.

Yes, good advice. I need to figure out how to get in there with the minimum of damage to the line overhead.

Lesson learned: do all the track work, and test it thoroughly, before building anything that will make it hard to fix.

"Experience is that thing that you get right after you could have used it".

 

[Guilford Railman]

Yes, good advice. I need to figure out how to get in there with the minimum of damage to the line overhead.

Lesson learned: do all the track work, and test it thoroughly, before building anything that will make it hard to fix.

"Experience is that thing that you get right after you could have used it".

If you post some pics of the problem area(s), I’m sure some of the crew can chime in with some creative ideas

 

[Marlin39]

If that NW2 is a paragon 4 it should not be stalling.

 

[Jacob Z]

If you post some pics of the problem area(s), I’m sure some of the crew can chime in with some creative ideas

The area in question is in the back left corner where one track goes through a tunnel and the other passes over the top. Here's a shot from the rear and another from the left side, the best I could do given the lighting conditions. I hope it gives some idea. The gap is about 1.5". My thought is to hack out some of the frame there (with a hacksaw), which would gain me about another inch, so I can get my hand further in, and maybe I'll be able to reach with a track cleaner.

Plan B is to invest in a Bachmann track cleaning car. Also, this might be the perfect excuse to get a scope. Any excuse to get a new toy...

 

[Jacob Z]

If that NW2 is a paragon 4 it should not be stalling.

It is indeed a paragon 4. It also stalls sometimes on my turnouts (Peco, code 55, medium radius). What is different about paragon 4? Should I contact BLI support?

(My Heavy Pacific is paragon 3, which I got on clearance when paragon 4 was coming out. It has no problems, but obviously it has a much longer wheelbase than the NW2.)