4x8 Ho Layout

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R

RavenKnight21

Member
From design to life.

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I know 4x8 is old and from the past, we have moved on, but it is a great starter layout for my son and I, and eventually when i have a dedicated room, i can expend.

3 loop system, small helix on the outer mainline.

wont be having any long trains until i expand and go with 22+ radius curves. for now, 18" will work with the smaller f7a's
 
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Looks good. Is there enough clearance on the loop? Looks like you should be able to get the height where the 3 bridges are but you will need to come down fast from my vantage point.
 
bwells said:
Looks good. Is there enough clearance on the loop? Looks like you should be able to get the height where the 3 bridges are but you will need to come down fast from my vantage point.
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Thanks!

Still working on the numbers. 3% up, trying to get a 2% down, even if i have to isolate the outside track as just a loop without turnouts.

I am also waiting for my foam grade kit to come in the mail.
 


Trying to clear the 2 tracks on the right of the loop is going to be tough. 2% is 1/4 per foot and you need at least 2 1/4 to 2 1/2. Do you need the loop? You can still get elevation without it and come back down to the left. I'm dealing with the same thing now so I'm interested in what you come up with.
 
bwells said:
Trying to clear the 2 tracks on the right of the loop is going to be tough. 2% is 1/4 per foot and you need at least 2 1/4 to 2 1/2. Do you need the loop? You can still get elevation without it and come back down to the left. I'm dealing with the same thing now so I'm interested in what you come up with.
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i am trying to hit a total of 4 inch height on the start of the bridge, and fall back down to the layout platform.

doing the small helix will give me the lowest grade of about 3%-3.5%

i wont be running a 20 car train on it. smaller is fine for now. once i get my risers in i'll be posting a better update with grade information.

Also if i need to, the inside loops i might lower into the layout, not only to give depth to the layout, but to give extra clearance on the helix. I have a 1 inch foam baseboard i can cut into and still lay the track bed for sound deadening against the 1/4inch plywood platform.
 
Once you move to a different loop,you can't get back to where you started without backing up. You might add another crossover or two.
 
i ran out of turnouts.... lol ( i do have brass but i don't like to mix )

i want to get a double crossover, but money is tight, and i am not about to drop a bill on one just yet...

i have been looking at some #6 turnouts with a 19* crossover but right now i am focused on the outside loop, grades, helix and bridge mounts...

lots of upgrades to come, just the pre stages right now.
 
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Using Atlas components to come up with a double crossover is definitely cheaper than a Shinohara/Walthers, or even a Peco. But even a #4 crossover would take up a lot of room, something thats at a premium on a 4x8.
 
Cjcrescent said:
Using Atlas components to come up with a double crossover is definitely cheaper than a Shinohara/Walthers, or even a Peco. But even a #4 crossover would take up a lot of room, something thats at a premium on a 4x8.
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I was able to design one with #6, i couldn't get it to line up properly with a #4

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In any case, i'll probably use the pic above and add this into the center loops.
 
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A number 4 xover, involves a 25 or 30 degree crossing, not a 19 degree. It would probably shorten the length by 3 inches or more. Of course, that would mean lower speed thru the turnout, but 'everything is a tradeoff.'
 
Future DCC question & switch....

Well, while i wait for my foam risers to come in the mail(for the helix and downgrades), i guess I'll get to the tedious work of soldering most of the joints.

Anyone have a good recommendation on wires? i am currently running DC, but i want to setup for future DCC, every 3 feet? 6? 9? what works best for you?

i have enough wired rail joiners i can do on average every 27 inch's of track (2.25 feet).

Also ordered "Caboose Industries Ground Throws", anyone use them? how are they? I had figured it would have been a better option over the atlas switch machine or automatic under table switching machines ( on a budget currently and wont be getting a switch machine or anything like that yet )

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Caboose ground throws should work fine-they're a defacto standard. NJ International also has some fancier switchstands, which are more accurate, but also more delicate. According to my LHS, every other railjoint should have feeders attached, if you're going DCC. That works out to a feeder every 6', if you are using 36" flex track sections. Its a lot more, if you're using some other kind of sectional track. Its something I'm facing going forward too, so I'd be interested in what others have to say.
 
otiscnj said:
Caboose ground throws should work fine-they're a defacto standard. NJ International also has some fancier switchstands, which are more accurate, but also more delicate. According to my LHS, every other railjoint should have feeders attached, if you're going DCC. That works out to a feeder every 6', if you are using 36" flex track sections. Its a lot more, if you're using some other kind of sectional track. Its something I'm facing going forward too, so I'd be interested in what others have to say.
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yea right now i only have 5 3' sections of flex track, everything else is sectional... i'll be swapping over to 100% flex when i expand the layout to a dedicated room.
 
Rocomendation....

Any good recommendations on metal wheels for rolling stock?

A lot of my rolling stock and passenger sets have plastic wheels, 33 & 36 inch wheels...

i have one Santa Fe passenger set with metal and they run great. No derailments.
 
Kadee 33" wheelsets used to be the standard for freight car replacement wheelsets. I'd also consider reboxx and Jay-bee.
 
Update on layout

update on the layout... still waiting for a few more risers and bridge mounts.. also changed up the layout some bit... took out the third loop, and added a crossover between the outer rail and inner rail.

but the layout is coming together, soon will be upper shelf at the helix, Mountains/cliffs, gluing and painting track bed track... ugh the list goes on! slow and steady!

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What grade did you end up with on the loop? It looks as though you made it work! Edit: on post number one, is that a wall clock I see? I think I can see a pendulum bob.
 
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bwells said:
What grade did you end up with on the loop? It looks as though you made it work! Edit: on post number one, is that a wall clock I see? I think I can see a pendulum bob.
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I did get it to work! it should!! be around 3.2%-3.5% taking in the factor of a grade on a curve.

I glued the inside foam grade today and laid the foam track bed on the outside loop.

Still working on a few things.. right now, my outside loop has cliff sides along the edge so i am custom cutting wooden barriers to start the cliff and will drape a plaster cloth down once i finish the upper level of the helix.

i'll have about a 6 foot run of wooden barriers... here is a pic... glue is still drying, and no details on it as of yet.

*Side note that is a piece of decorative glass in my entry way, not a clock.*
 
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