40' x 8' x 8' shipping container layout

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ctclibby said:
Dave: Remember to check around the corners of the unit, both top and bottom. As you may know these are picked up from the top to get them on or in something. I have seen them dropped to ground cuz the operator did not make sure all 4 corners were locked into the lifter. Bottom usually takes the brute of the fall and could possibly leak. Check top corners too as sometimes they get dropped there; although usually the dropped unit goes through the roof of the unsuspecting receiving unit.

In the case of a refer unit - might be the way to go as those things will go from colder to cold to nominal to warm to warmer without having to reconfigure anything. And as Terry says they are insulated very good already. When we hauled 'the vax' we were sometimes in upwards of 100F temps with the refer unit only running once in a while to keep at -60C. The diesel, compressor and heat unit are in one unit and are pretty small and quiet. The diesel electric part may put a wrench in the works. Hmmm, you always wanted a diesel electric sans traction motors, right? Oh, you could forget the diesel part, but you would need 440V 3 phase @ 200A for the compressor and/or heating elements. That amperage is from memory, so YMMV.

Also, I would set up a post building with a roof over the top of the whole shebang. No worry about snow load or it melting and that should not cost that much more. Snow load could be a problem as those things are rated for ( usually ) no more than 3 containers on top when at gross weight (120K ish Lbs). That is sitting in the slots on the ends/edges with nothing on the metal roof. 4 foot of really wet snow is quite hefty for a roof with minimal cross-bracing!

In any event, have a blast with this and of course we know you will post pix!

Later
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I have one used shipping container. We store our garden tractor, tools, and outdoor stuff in it. The oldest date on it is 2002. It is still tight and rodent proof. Bought it in 2018 and stored our belongings in it for 3 years while we moved. Put a condensation bucket of pellets in there since we had furniture and my model railroad modules in there.

The one I am getting this time is a "one time" (came over once and otherwise new) guaranteed model, from the same outfit I bought the previous one from.

Seriously, I do have a budget, folks.

Dave LASM
 
The only down side I see with using one of these containers is the width. 8' is a very narrow 'room' to build a railroad and will almost necessitate an around-the-room type layout just so you're able to turn around without banging into something every time you move.

It is also very dark without any natural lighting allowed in. If I were to do this, I would install several (many) skylights in the roof and several casement style windows along the sides (higher than the layout level for easy access).
 


RhB Michael said:
The only down side I see with using one of these containers is the width. 8' is a very narrow 'room' to build a railroad and will almost necessitate an around-the-room type layout just so you're able to turn around without banging into something every time you move.

It is also very dark without any natural lighting allowed in. If I were to do this, I would install several (many) skylights in the roof and several casement style windows along the sides (higher than the layout level for easy access).
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Michael, I thought of all that stuff, there will be an average width of 2' for track so will have 4' hallway which is great plenty.

This is an 8' tall container, will have the ceiling at 7' with air flow above insulation to reduce condensation. Will be wiring lights all along the ceiling which I can upgrade as time goes on, will start with just bare bulb fixtures every 4 ' which will be lots of light.

There will be 2 window panels, essentially screens with a wooden plug. The fewer openings, the better energy efficiency, this will be heated and cooled by a wall unit. The insulation comes in 100' long 4' high sheets. There will be no draft. Where I live, it gets down to -35f in the winter and up to 100f in the summer. There will be no skylights as those are both expensive and problematic, unnecessary to the running of trains.

I will have two very long runs of 40' which will contain hills, curves, industry, etc. Also, the sections from my existing layout will be incorporated, the quarry, the Wyoming and Groningen modules, the feed mill and saw mill, the wooden truss bridge, these will all be moved over there.

It will be around the room. My current layout is around the room. My previous layout was in the middle of the room, which did not really improve anything in my mind.

Thank you for the comments and concerns! I ordered the container today so the excitement level is quite high right now. I budgeted an extra $1,000 for track and accessories.

Dave LASM
 
If I may suggest something, putting the door halfway or so gives you a quick escape if need be.
Otherwise make sure you can scramble out a window.
That would also allow loops on the two ends if desired?
Looking forward to the updates! 😃
 


RhB Michael said:
I only mention the windows and skylights for allowing natural lighting into the container. This comes in handy for photography and alleviates the somewhat claustrophobic feeling of the container. It is an extra (costly) expense, but they do have energy efficient skylights that blocks most UV-A/B thus keeping the heat out in the summer and the heat in during winter.
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I personally don't like skylights for the same reason I don't like a sunroof in a car. You're cutting a hole in the roof, and hoping whatever you installed doesn't leak. I have always had the idea if it isn't there, it can't break (or leak).
 
Bruette said:
I've never seen a Sunroof or a T-Top that didn't leak.

But, if anybody can do it, the Log and Saw Man can!
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I put skylights in one of my first building projects. It was carefully constructed and, I thought, 100% airtight.

It leaked, and no amount of caulk could fix it.

Wife wanted skylights too. However, she is not the one building it, fixing it, or even spending much time in there.

It is a worthwhile suggestion for someone that enjoys experimentation and that type of challenge.
 
Bruette said:
I've never seen a Sunroof or a T-Top that didn't leak.
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I've got a 2011 Kia Sportage with a fully retractable roof, had a Suburban with same, and 2 F150s. None have leaked, so I guess there are exceptions. Had a friend with Corvette "T" tops. All leaked. Of course I am normally a full convertible person, so the sunroofs are an anomaly in my garage.
 
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Shipping container arrives Thursday. I may have changed my mind and may be adding a skylight, not till next summer, however. As crazy as I am, it will be made by hand and not manufactured, to assure it doesn't leak (like the one I made in 1980?). I am planning it so the glass part can be raised and it will allow ventilation on those hot Minnesota summer days. We'll see...

Wife looking forward to me getting the trains out of our spare bedroom, it will be transformed into an office/TV room. I admit I am looking forward to that, too.

Dave LASM
 
RhB Michael said:
It is also very dark without any natural lighting allowed in. If I were to do this, I would install several (many) skylights in the roof and several casement style windows along the sides (higher than the layout level for easy access).
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The mrr club near me has no windows or other means of natural light. Even if it did, they mostly meet at night 😂

If the artificial light is adequate I don’t think that’s a problem
 


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