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Very informative site, thanks!
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I did notice Micheals carries wire, but what size do you use? Oops, I guess they do sell it by gauge! Does the silver or gold work better than the other? Or is it essentially the same stuff, just a diff color?
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Looking to detail some locos and wondering if most buy pre-made wire grabs or do some of you make your own?
I'm kicking around the idea of just making my own, especially the odd stuff, the wide grab that is just behind the last fan on hood units, plus the curved ones on the front of the RSC2...
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What do you use for cement? I've heard about using a fine brush before, but doesn't it dry and harden the brush? Or does it get soft again when you put it back in the cement?
Thanks
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Thanks for the info!
One other question. I noticed they sell either the 18" or 24" drop grabirons.
Is there a good reference to find out what I need for my locos? I don't have a RR conversion ruler, if that would help. I'm looking for GP9 grabs for the front of the short hood. I do not...
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Love the face shot!! Where did you get the angled wire grabs? Does details associates sell them, or did you just make them yourself?
Thanks, Jason
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Very cool Jerome, interesting projects and options for me.
Happy Birthday by the way!
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Photo? (I did the same thing yesterday in a post;))
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What color are the shells after stripping? Are they that gray color similar to the undecorated proto models?
Was hoping to not have to strip all the paint, might just leave her in BN colors!!
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How do you guys go about painting over a shell like this? I'm looking to paint the shell all black and apply some Milwaukee Road decals, even though MR never had an SW1000 or SW1500 on their roster, thought it would be a fun project, maybe...
I don't think this model has decals, is it...
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Alright, thanks for the info!
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Are the proto 2000 GP7 and GP9 shells interchangeable?
I don't have either one of these but am keeping my options open for a future project. I'm assuming the shells ride on the exact same chassis, just making sure!!
Thanks, Jason
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Just got the model railroader.com newsletter and they are offering 12 issues for $32.95.
Shoot me a PM if your interested and I can forward the info.
Jason
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I really should have had the loco in hand prior to my last post. For some reason I thought you could just spin the truck around where it was, but it doesn't work that way!
Project complete, just swapped front to back.
Took longer to warm up the soldering iron than to do the job!
Thanks...
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So just keep the front truck in the front, just spin each of them around?
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So do I just swap them front to back, or do I need to not only swap them but spin them 180 degrees as well?
Prior to asking in this thread I swapped the worm gears hoping that would fix it. Not so much.
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Thanks for the responses! Ended up going with the MRC tech 4 260 and have been very happy with it. The momentum feature is neat but I'm just glad to have enough power to run all my engines now.:D
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Can the contacts coming up from the trucks(I think this is called the L bracket?) be switched to the other side?
Sounds like this might be too much work for what its worth!
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Hoping the wiring forum will help me out on this! I've got an old athearn BB GP7/GP9 that runs in the opposite direction of all my other locos. I read the article on "how to upgrade your athearn BB" and while it was mentioned to mark part of the truck prior to taking it apart to keep it...
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Searched the railpictures.net site for more info, as they do have tons of rolling stock pics that I totally forgot about, but it only narrowed this hopper down to a 2 bay.
Not sure if they are made more for wt limitations on certain sections of track? Seems like you see them in bunches when...
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