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For me, has nothing to do with the size of the railroad, all throttles are walk-around. More to do with how I want to control locos, I prefer just one loco per throttle, but all throttles are wireless. I don't carry more than one at a time, just lay the others down or in a fascia holder.
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I don't know what a power pack with switching levers is. I'll assume you have a DC power pack. To use that you will have to wire your railroad into multiple electrical blocks. For two trains a double pole, double throw switch will suffice. Your main track with a passing siding would be two...
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I would think that would not be a problem, just setup the DB150 to be a booster only. I believe it can handle up to five amps. It will be half duplex but that should not be a problem. Oh and the phase will be switched so you probably will have to swap track power wires to get them to match.
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Time for "Fun With NMRA Track / Wheel Gauge". Check your track and wheelsets with the NMRA gauge to see what the cause might be. If wheels are out of gauge should be easy to twist and push (or pull) to put the wheels in gauge. Track may be harder to fix or may need to be replaced.
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Sparks are from having a small gap between two conductive surfaces, the roller and the track. Probably due to bits of dirt on both. Use some Goo Gone on a paper towel and clean the roller until you do not get any dirt on the towel. Then clean the track where you see sparks, then clean the...
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I'm looking for a decoder I can use to control a 1 - 2 AMP motor (0 - 12 VDC). Does not need to be a mobile decoder, so size is not an issue. Don't need any functions such as lights or horns. I could use a mobile decoder, but figured it would be a waste of functions and size. Any suggestions?
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For getting close I would suggest an around the room shelf railroad, about 12" deep with lift out bridges for doors and windows. If you build it close to eye level it should not block any other uses of the room. The around the room shelf will allow for larger radius turns but still allow for...
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I would tell not to use brass, just nickel silver, joiners and track.
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It looks like brass, do you have brass track or nickel silver? Brass oxidizes over time whereas nickel silver oxide still conducts electricity.
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I built the "Gum Stump & Snowshoe" for my kids when they were young. An operation session usually lasted about 30 minutes which was their attention limit.
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Can you glue some styrene to the bottom of the car to provide a mounting surface for a screw fastened coupler box?
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I made my brackets with 2" x 2" and 1" x 4". I used lag bolts to secure the 2" x 2" to the wall into studs. I cut a notch in the 2" x 2" on the wall and then used another 2" x 2" angled from the notch up. Then the 1" x 4" was horizontal from the wall, three drywall screws in pre-drilled holes...
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Okay, I did 24" deep shelf with angled brackets. My shelf was 56" high and the bracket went down to about 12" off the floor. In your case I would suggest angled brackets to keep the floor clear. Makes it easier when searching for coupler springs!
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What is your longest reach from where you can stand? Looks like the corner in the lower left will not be accessible. Do a Google search on "Heart Of Georgia" model railroad.
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Ken, what is the planned depth and height of the shelf? How much load will it carry?
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