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Normally when i change a CV the loco moves a 1/2 inch or so on the track confirming that it was recieved. maybe it does not do this when changing the address though.
i worked on it again last night and i am not sure what i am doing wrong. it is a tsunami decoder and CV 1 should control the...
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okay, another never ending string of questions...i got one more i really need some help with on this.
Note: loco ran smoother last night after running it for the last two days, no more jerkyness.
question: I cannot seem to change the default address code from 3. i need to change it so i can...
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I got the train engine, it is super nice, the weight is good the colors are good the low speed is great and it runs super quite at anything under 2/3rds throttle.
the engine idle sound is loud though, i need to look at adjusting that CV, it almost hurts my ears if i am standing near the table...
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thanks for all the helpful reply's.
My experiance so far with model trains is i always find a reason after a few weeks to take a loco apart. i want to see how everything fits together and check the unit for overlubrication/underlubrication pretty much i come up with a reason and convince...
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Well i pulled the trigger on it and bought it from FDT.
question does anybody have a part diagram or breakdown of this Loco Proto 2000 GP60? i would like to study it before it shows up and i start taking it apart. :rolleyes:
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Anybody ever order from here? Factory direct trains? on sale for 206 bucks...i have only ordered through walthers so far...
FDT Low Price: $299.98
Sale Price: $206.99
You Save: $92.99 (31 %)
Item Number: 920-41807
Manufacturer: Walthers
Thanks for the help guys.
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Okay, so my B-day is coming up and my wife is letting me spend 300 bucks on some train stuff. i really want a full size engine with DCC and sound. anybody have this walters proto? is this a good model, is their other options for loco's that would be a better use of the money. any and all...
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My Athearns has the brass/bronze square bearings in it. But the amount of sidplay is enough that sometimes the bearing will slip inside the steel sheet that you were talking about.
Anyhow ran the loco for an hour or so last night with no problems so no permenate damage just the loss of two...
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Thankfully it wasnt the S4, it is an old Athearns GP-38 i bought second hand and i was running in DC mode.
Yea, I knew it was a bad idea to leave it unattended but it was running so smooth around the layout i thought, awe it will be okay for a minute...:o
anyhow, it could have been worse, i...
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Well i had my first bad track delrailment last night :( of course i stepped out of the room for about 2 minutes when it happened. i came back to the room and saw the wreck and after looking closer saw smoke and plastic starting to burn. :mad:. i grabbed the loco that had derailed on a turn out...
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okay, got it working Friday night, must have been the beer drank during the set up and install that got me confused by the time I got around to testing it.
I am very happy with this unit. the controls are great and i havent even been able to get the power pack to feel warm to the touch...
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Thanks for the reply, i might have to look into that down the road a bit.
Still new to soldering iron but getting better. i soldered the wiper clip to the bracket and a wire to the bottom of the bulb (that was fun :eek:) but it did take and didnt blow the bulb. sure is a bright light. LED's...
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OKay, i will mess with again tonight but i tried everything and it just kept defaulting back to Loco...
so i just push loco and wait and it switch to DCC? does anything on the screen indicate which mode it is in.
it is a MRC tech 6 6.0, i bought it on your advice :) that is was a worthy...
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Okay, i need some help here.
I got the controller yesterday and hooked everything up. It only seems to run in DC with my Bachmann S4.
I have power to the pack and the sound control (green power light on). Link light is not on, it does blink when i give the train a command though.
screen...
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the coupler screws hold the base to the shell. i have the UP #1156 version.
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