n scale steam loco runs better backwards


strnbrg

New Member
Newbie here... Is it common for locomotives to run better backwards than forwards? Mine does run both ways, but it tends to derail (and just plain get stuck) when it's going forward a lot more than when it's going backward.
This loco is a Kato C51 4-6-2 steam loco.
 
Newbie here... Is it common for locomotives to run better backwards than forwards? Mine does run both ways, but it tends to derail (and just plain get stuck) when it's going forward a lot more than when it's going backward.
This loco is a Kato C51 4-6-2 steam loco.
You might want to check you have the correct gauge on the front truck.
 
It's brand new but ok. Do I need one of those gauge measuring tools or will a micrometer be enough (and how close a tolerance are we talking about)?
Get you an NMRA gauge. It will do wheels, and track, turnouts, A must have tool!

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For years (decades) steam locomotives have run better in reverse. By “better” I mean quieter and more smoothly, not because of problems like derailing.
 
An NMRA Standards Gauge is indispensable for both wheel gauges and track gauges, and not to mention tunnel and structure clearances too.

Make sure you get one for N-scale. In the mean time, you could check with a micrometer. "N" stands for nine, or 9 mm (.354") between the rails. Out-to-out over the wheel flanges should be just a tad under the 9 mm dimension.

Kato products are high quality, but a slightly out-of-gauge wheel set could still slip by them once in a while.
 
Most models run better in reverse. It's a feature. I don't know which way SP cab forwards run best.
 
Thanks, everybody! I like this crowd already!

Ok, I figured it out: my coupling rods were jamming each other. I had no clue until one of them just came loose and dangled. So I removed it (seeing no chance whatsoever I could ever reattach it), which loosened all the others. Which made me sad, until I noticed that the wheels were suddenly running real nice (engine upside-down in my hand now, and me applying voltage to the wheels). So I removed the coupling rods from the other side and yeeha! the loco is running great at last!

I should have picked up on another clue; the loco was stopping without even derailing.

No coupling rods does reduce the realism but, hey, I'll take a running train over a non-running train.
 
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Thanks, everybody! I like this crowd already!

Ok, I figured it out: my coupling rods were jamming each other. I had no clue until one of them just came loose and dangled. So I removed it (seeing no chance whatsoever I could ever reattach it), which loosened all the others. Which made me sad, until I noticed that the wheels were suddenly running real nice (engine upside-down in my hand now, and me applying voltage to the wheels). So I removed the coupling rods from the other side and yeeha! the loco is running great at last!

I should have picked up on another clue; the loco was stopping without even derailing.

No coupling rods does reduce the realism but, hey, I'll take a running train over a non-running train.
Always happy times when you find the issue!
 



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