My Atlas Turnouts are breaking.... what kind should I get?


T

T-Tommy

New Member
I'm using Atlas turnouts, code 80 standard and #6 both left and right, and am having a problem with the points breaking. I haven't even finished the layout and I've replaced 2 and have 2 that need to be replaced. I think it's because I am using the Peco CDU, I have to, or else the Atlas turnouts won't snap into place, but the snap action (I think) is causing the rivet/connections on the bottom of the throw bar to come loose and the points to fall out... or else these things are total crap

so ... is there fix with the CDU/operation situation or should I get different turnouts? I am pretty new and dont' know many other places that will have track I can fit into this layout now that I'm this deep into it. It's only 2X4 but I don't want to start from scratch...
 
Peco Code 80 turnout, either Electrofrog or Insulfrog. Electrofrogs need to have the frogs wired while the insulfrogs are basically plug and play so to speak.

Peco track work is high quality, reliable and robust and best of all, if you do have a problem with one of their products, you get to speak to the company that made them ;)

If you do go with Peco Turnouts - go to Hatton's in the UK. Peco is so much more cheaper there, because that is where it is made, and Hattons are great to deal with and fast when it comes to shipping. If your interested, here is their website:

Peco Products N Track - Code 80 Streamline Products from Hattons Model Railways

www.hattons.co.uk www.hattons.co.uk
 
I have never had much luck with Atlas turnouts. I will agree Peco switches are the way to go if you want commercially made ones. If you need a lot of them, and If you're going to be in this hobby a long time and build multiple layouts over the years, then I would seriously consider building your own. I have collected all the jigs and filing aids over the past year to do just that. Plus you get a true NMRA compliant turnout at a lower cost.

www.handlaidtrack.com

Fast Tracks Hobbyworks Front Page

Welcome to Fast Tracks Hobbyworks. The premiere supplier of model railroad track building tools and accessories since 2003.
www.handlaidtrack.com www.handlaidtrack.com
 
wombat457 said:
@migalyto Building your own looks complicated and not an easy task though ... ?? OR, are they easier than they look to build ??
Click to expand...

Tony,

Can't offer you any guidance yet on building them, as I have never attempted it yet. I've just been picking up the tools to do it when I could find them on the auction site for less than I can purchase them new. There is a whole series of youtube videos Fastrack's put out showing how to do it. Let's just say I believe I can handle it. Time will tell.
 
I see that you're using N scale, so I can't really offer advice. I have 115 Atlas HO code 100 switches and I have never had the problem with the rivets. I did have a problem with one where the points came loose because the throw bar broke; but my LHS took it right back and exchanged it for a new one. No questions asked. I am not familiar with CDU, but I assume it's capacitor discharge unit, which may be for HO instead of the lower power required for N scale. Strictly guessing here.
 
T-Tommy said:
is there fix with the CDU/operation situation or should I get different turnouts? I am pretty new and dont' know many other places that will have track I can fit into this layout now that I'm this deep into it. It's only 2X4 but I don't want to start from scratch...
Click to expand...
I can't speak for Atlas turnouts, I don't have any Atlas track.
CDU's only give a momentary "kick" to snap the blade across, primarily used in larger scale track, unless your operating several turnouts simultaneously, or your turnouts are failing to snap over, you most likely don't need one, I'd remove it and see if anymore turnouts fall apart, or as other's have suggested use PECO turnouts. But I would definitely contact your supplier, it could also simply be you've received a bad batch.
 
wombat457 said:
@migalyto Building your own looks complicated and not an easy task though ... ?? OR, are they easier than they look to build ??
Click to expand...
They are actually easy... Fast Tracks has videos online and ask at your local club...I bet someone does make them. Plus, the skills you learn will make servicing your track and custom track work easy. For example, laying down bridge track, guard rails, crossings, etc. are so easy now and I just use the copper ties to solder and hold stuff in place (properly gapped of course). I did take a workshop at the NMRA a decade ago to learn but its easy to learn from the videos online at Fast tracks. I wish I was more of a videographer...I plan on building 3-4 #6's today...easy peasy...I will try to take some pics.
 
Okey dokey,
to kind of update you guys..

I dabbed some super glue on the throw bars and got them to work again... I had to be VERY careful, the test subject got glued together completely, but it is working.

I think some of my problem is that I started 3 months ago with an old 1st-generation n-gauge train set that has all kinds of issues on its own. I tried to do too much in too small a space, misusing the geometry with no knowledge of railyard operations or what a train can even do. Now I'm taking a step back from the project and reducing the "how much can I do" factor and focusing on "how good can I do it". That means taking at least 1 switch out of my layout to free up space and reduce the opportunity for breakage and derailing (within the trainyard part of my set up).

Building your own turnouts... that is what I am going to do, super cool, but I think it could be a while before I get to that... between then and now I'll be working with the atlas I have for this set and then moving on to some form of undertable throw for the next.... and getting new rolling stock
 
Smudge617 said:
I can't speak for Atlas turnouts, I don't have any Atlas track.
CDU's only give a momentary "kick" to snap the blade across, primarily used in larger scale track, unless your operating several turnouts simultaneously, or your turnouts are failing to snap over, you most likely don't need one, I'd remove it and see if anymore turnouts fall apart, or as other's have suggested use PECO turnouts. But I would definitely contact your supplier, it could also simply be you've received a bad batch.
Click to expand...
I had to get the CDU, I got the one from Peco..it says HO and N, for all solenoid switches... mine wouldn't work without it, even just 1.
 
T-Tommy said:
I had to get the CDU, I got the one from Peco..it says HO and N, for all solenoid switches... mine wouldn't work without it, even just 1
Click to expand...
A single turnout should work without a CDU, either it's the wrong power pack or you've a wiring problem.
 
@T-Tommy

I am with @Smudge617 - any switch machine/solenoid switch should work as a stand alone item. If they don't - there is only two possibilities:

1. The switch is stuffed or
2. There is a wiring problem.

When it comes to Switch Machines, I swear by DCC Concepts Cobalt machines. Strong, reliable, fairly easy to wire up.
 
Sorry, just went back and read the original post again. To reiterate - loose the atlas stuff and get yourself Peco Turnouts, probably insulfrogs and you wont need anything else.
 
T-Tommy said:
peco... I like them better,

I've decided Atlas are fine but you either need to be 1) lucky with them out of the box or 2) have more experience than I started with and know how to tune them up before you install them.
Click to expand...
You shouldn't have a problem with them remote throwing, if you do, then it's back to a wiring/switch problem.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.



Back
Top