My question regarding the couplers between the locomotive and the tender sparking has a new twist to it. I took the motor out and examined it to see it anything was touching something it shouldn't and couldn't find anything wrong, although there could be something I'm not experienced enough to know. After I got it back together I put the train on the track and the headlight bulb was burned out and the sparking at the couplers has stopped! So was the bulb somehow getting electrical current to the body of the engine? Nothing obvious is visible around the motor like a loose wire, everything looks correct. I've ordered two new bulbs, we'll see what happens and keep you posted. Edit: I just went and started the trains and I saw sparks at the coupler between the Loco and tender!! So much for the light bulb scenario. Anything I should check about this motor? Tom
Marx #898 loco question with a twist!
- Thread starter ThomasB
- Start date
Dub
Lionel 3 Rail
Does it have the reverse unit? The only way to get couplers to spark is to isolate the drive wheels by adding tape or something else for traction. The next car must have metal wheels. I would try it without a second car to see how it works. Also find out where the center pickup wire connects to. So models connect to the side of the light bulb socket. Otherwise, the drive wheels must be very dirty.
Dub, It does have a reverse unit. I'm a bit confused. You say the only way to get couplers to spark is to isolate drive wheels by adding tape for traction? I don't want to get the couplers to spark. This set is post war late 1940's, # 898, 0-4-0 engine, 6" tinplate cars with tab and hook couplers. I have no "pickup" wires to the track, just the original lock-on connector to outside rail and center of course, and a 50 watt original transformer. I don't understand when you say "So models..." I assume a typo and you mean SOME, but still, what connects to the light bulb socket? There are three wires connected to the light bulb socket, one from reversing unit, one from the pick-up shoe and one from something else, don't know what it is. I do know that most of the problem with sparking from the wheels is dirt on track and wheels. The wheels are very clean but I think dust etc. is being picked up from the rug it's on. Its pretty dry in the house with the heat going this time of year! Also the wheels are somewhat pitted and the track is not perfect so there are probably unseen gaps that are causing sparking. The mystery is why sparking at the tender to engine coupler? When the light bulb burned out it stopped but then after awhile it started again although not as much as when the light bulb was working. I'm not concerned about the wheels sparking but I would like to know how power is getting to the couplers to cause it to spark when the hook moves around in the tab. Thanks for your help.
Dub
Lionel 3 Rail
Sparking through the coupler is weird. It means the motor is no grounding to the rails at all. It is grounding through the tender.
The engine grounds through the drive wheels. Do you have pilot or trailing wheels on the engine?
Three wires on the socket are fine. The third wire goes to the wedge to supply the main circuit to the motor. The other wire just powers the coil to move the wedge.
The socket in this circuit is hot and the bulb works by grounding through the bulb to the frame. The bulb, and the motor and the reverse coil all ground through the frame. Somehow you have current passing through the couplers.
The engine grounds through the drive wheels. Do you have pilot or trailing wheels on the engine?
Three wires on the socket are fine. The third wire goes to the wedge to supply the main circuit to the motor. The other wire just powers the coil to move the wedge.
The socket in this circuit is hot and the bulb works by grounding through the bulb to the frame. The bulb, and the motor and the reverse coil all ground through the frame. Somehow you have current passing through the couplers.
Dub, The engine is a 0-4-0, post war with reverse, no other wheels. My motor looks like your image only with the reverse unit on top. Could the whole problem be just that the train is picking up dust and dirt from the rug which is making the tender ground for an instant while the engines wheels are losing contact? I don't think this issue is a big deal as far as sparks on the tender coupler, the train still runs well. Should it be a concern and did the bulb burn out because of this weird grounding thing and will I keep blowing bulbs? I guess I'll see what happens when I replace the bulb! Is the wedge the unit under the reversing unit and visible under the light bulb socket that you can see when looking at the motor from the front?
The train is in our parlor on the rug. I'm taking it down today while we remove Christmas decorations and the tree. I may put it in the attic that has a plywood floor and is probably much cleaner and free from winter dust.
The train is in our parlor on the rug. I'm taking it down today while we remove Christmas decorations and the tree. I may put it in the attic that has a plywood floor and is probably much cleaner and free from winter dust.
Iron Horseman
Well-Known Member
That was going to be my comment. Are these sparks just electrical contact arc sparks, or are they sparks due to a short circuit? As the train is running well, it sounds like the former to me, and therefore nothing to worry about.
I think I would set the loco and tender on the track separate from one another and use a multi-meter to determine what power is going through the coupler bar. My guess is that the coupler wheels are just additional pick ups for track power.
And oh yeah, if it is just power transfer sparks, perhaps a tiny drop of electrically conductive lubricant would make the sparks go away.
Iron Horseman, Thanks for your reply. I do think that the sparking is just electrical contact arcs as you say. The train runs well, when it doesn't it is mostly just dirt. Occasionally it will just stop or start running backwards, but that has always been remedied by cleaning the wheels or pushing the track sections together when then separate a bit. I don't have a multi-meter so can't check what you suggested. As I said earlier we will see if the new light bulbs blow due to a short circuit, I have a feeling everything is going to be okay. I don't have electrically conductive lubricant either, would WD-40 do the same thing?
Thanks for the help
Thanks for the help
Bruette
Well-Known Member
I like these products. I think either one could solve your arcing problem.
I use the Aero-Car after cleaning my track, wheels, and pick-ups. Basically, I clean everything twice. The last step is cleaning (treating) with Aero-Car.
This works well also, but it is more expensive.
I use the Aero-Car after cleaning my track, wheels, and pick-ups. Basically, I clean everything twice. The last step is cleaning (treating) with Aero-Car.
Aero-Car Track & Rail Cleaner and Conditioner Fluid 8oz (This is not a lube; it is a cleaner that will enhance conductivity.)
This works well also, but it is more expensive.
Bachmann Trains - E-Z LUBE - CONDUCTIVE CONTACT LUBE (1 fluid ounce) (This is not a cleaner; This is a lube that will enhance conductivity.)
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Iron Horseman
Well-Known Member
No, I would not recommend WD-40. WDs carriers eventually evaporate and it leaves a sticky dust collecting residue. I have both of the products that Bruette shows. Pick them up whenever they go on sale.
Harbor Freight tools occasionally has a multi-meter as a free gift, or free with any purchase. I've gotten piles of them that way.
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-59434.html
