Lights dont work


Despite your posts being a bit cryptic, I would think you might be burning your bulbs out.
What are you using for a power pack and what is the hook up point voltage reading where your track is connected to it?
 
D&J RailRoad said:
Despite your posts being a bit cryptic, I would think you might be burning your bulbs out.
What are you using for a power pack and what is the hook up point voltage reading where your track is connected to it?
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It don't have bulbs per say I don't know what they rbut they r not lightbulbs
 
Only other thing would be LEDs. If not installed with the right resistor, they'll light temporarily then burn out.
What are you using for a power pack?
 
No light bulb how do u change them
 

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I can't make any sense of your posts, but from the image I get the impression you might be replacing incandescent (glass + tungsten) bulbs with LEDs, and not including the critical current limiting resistors. That will burn them out really fast.
 
rickrusch361 said:
No light bulb how do u change them
Click to expand...
Ok here is the deal. Unless there are resistors on the underside of that board that we cannot see, the wire jumpers pushed in the DCC sockets are wrong. Pin #2 and #6 should not go directly to power. They should have a resistor on them and return to the common power - pin #7. A 1K resistor is usually good. Just replacing those LEDs like they are and they will burn out again.

Remove the wires you have between pins 1 and 2 and between pins 5 and 6 (I've marked in red). Replace with 1K resistors between 2 and 7 (rear headlight in yellow) and 6 and 7 (front headlight in white). Then replace the LEDs and they should be fine. Of course the polarity of the LEDs will have to be maintained as that is what is making them directional.

There is a way one could rewire the pins to use the motor as the resistor but it is more tricky.

DCC Decoder.jpg
 
Tyv
Iron Horseman said:
Ok here is the deal. Unless there are resistors on the underside of that board that we cannot see, the wire jumpers pushed in the DCC sockets are wrong. Pin #2 and #6 should not go directly to power. They should have a resistor on them and return to the common power - pin #7. A 1K resistor is usually good. Just replacing those LEDs like they are and they will burn out again.

Remove the wires you have between pins 1 and 2 and between pins 5 and 6 (I've marked in red). Replace with 1K resistors between 2 and 7 (rear headlight in yellow) and 6 and 7 (front headlight in white). Then replace the LEDs and they should be fine. Of course the polarity of the LEDs will have to be maintained as that is what is making them directional.

There is a way one could rewire the pins to use the motor as the resistor but it is more tricky.ty
Click to expand...
Ty yes
Iron Horseman said:
Ok here is the deal. Unless there are resistors on the underside of that board that we cannot see, the wire jumpers pushed in the DCC sockets are wrong. Pin #2 and #6 should not go directly to power. They should have a resistor on them and return to the common power - pin #7. A 1K resistor is usually good. Just replacing those LEDs like they are and they will burn out again.

Remove the wires you have between pins 1 and 2 and between pins 5 and 6 (I've marked in red). Replace with 1K resistors between 2 and 7 (rear headlight in yellow) and 6 and 7 (front headlight in white). Then replace the LEDs and they should be fine. Of course the polarity of the LEDs will have to be maintained as that is what is making them directional.

There is a way one could rewire the pins to use the motor as the resistor but it is more tricky.

View attachment 137678
Click to expand...
I allready did that I took the lights of a engine that didn't work and soldiers them in and my light in my cab is deffently brighter. Ty for that it would of save me some hassles that is the smallest soldiers I ever did but it works
 
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