Chain Link Fencing


Tony,

This might be another option. I've been binge watching his stuff lately getting weathering tips. I ran across this and thought of you.

I know it may be a little late to change plays in the middle of the game.

 
Start of the gate:

t8Rux7R.jpg
 
So moving along a little - I completed the "gate mesh" and have started putting in the "Top Wiring" using this EZ-Line. It will look better when sprayed Silver Leaf I believe, OR, I can leave it rusted ??

OSlBwz8.jpg


And a Second Strand:

fpVJsep.jpg


I* intended to have three strands but the second one kept slipping off of the sold joint :(
 
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I've been thinking about your project, and I came across this "thick body CA": https://starbond.com/products/thick-ca-glue-em-2000

It's available on Amazon (but a bit pricier I think), as well as from several other brands.

I wonder if a single tiny drop might fill the gap between your tulle material and frame enough to get it where you want it, but not spread out like a thin CA would. To stick in just the one small spot, but not wick out along the "wire," so to speak.
 
Another thought, and if someone who knows more about this wants to chime in, or even correct me, I'm all ears: Silver solder. The melting point is a higher, but I have the idea it makes a MUCH stronger joint than does conventional solder. Enough so that--this really surprised me--even BANDSAW blades can be rejoined successfully using only silver solder.


I'm posting this one just to show how strong silver solder joints can be. I THINK they can make a smaller joint a lot stronger, but using a lot less solder (I'd try the smallest diameter I could find and work upward as required)

I also recall resistance soldering tools can make smaller joints than other methods, but even using high heat, like you might get using a propane torch.
 
Snowman said:
Another thought, and if someone who knows more about this wants to chime in, or even correct me, I'm all ears: Silver solder. The melting point is a higher, but I have the idea it makes a MUCH stronger joint than does conventional solder. Enough so that--this really surprised me--even BANDSAW blades can be rejoined successfully using only silver solder.


I'm posting this one just to show how strong silver solder joints can be. I THINK they can make a smaller joint a lot stronger, but using a lot less solder (I'd try the smallest diameter I could find and work upward as required)

I also recall resistance soldering tools can make smaller joints than other methods, but even using high heat, like you might get using a propane torch.
Click to expand...
Snowman: Yes, Silver Solder has a higher melting point - somewhere close to 1800F, whereas 60/40 starts to melt about 350F. When working with ( very ) small things I suspect that getting temp up for the SS to melt it could dis-color stuff near by and will also melt some of the other joints no matter what you use for a heat sink. Besides Silver, SS has Zinc and Copper which should be stronger than regular solder with Tin and Lead.

Also, when soldering your posts and rails, give a go at putting a tiny blob of solder on the tip before you touch it to the wanted joint. Those post and rails do not have much mass and should heat up rather quickly and not cool off the tip enough to cause grief. End result would be less filing and you still would have a good mechanical joint.

Later
 
Before I go anywhere else with this, let me apologize in advance, Wombat, for (once again, as with all-too-many others) hi-jacking your thread. It's just that, with me anyway, one train of thought leads to another (sorry for the "train" thing too). My brain just works that way.

@ctclibby Great info, thanks. As far as discoloring--bluing--I've seen that, yes, even on chrome finished golf club shafts, and in those cases the heat source is only a handheld propane torch. It only has to be hot enough to melt and separate epoxy joints for reshafting...yadda yadda yadda...clubs.

If one is overpainting with a silver (or grey galvanized) color as Wombat is this shouldn't matter, of course.
 
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