Atlas Switch Machine Wiring

[OgreMike]

Hello everyone. I’m wiring up my very first home layout (DCC), but “currently” (pun intended), I’m overwrought with trying to wire up the teeny, tiny Atlas switch machines to an old AC transformer. I’m finding out that wiring these tiny machines with their tinier wires is a tedium and a stress that I’d definitely like to reduce! I’ve already learned that I’ll need a Capacitor Discharge Unit (CDU) to fire multiple Atlas machines at once such as at crossovers, since there’s not enough power to fire more than one at a time without something to provide an extra burst like the CDU is designed for. But my real question for any and everyone . . . How for the love of Pete do you handle and work with such small wires (24 gauge?) with the kind of shaky hands an old fellow like myself has? With wires that small, I can’t strip the insulation off with any of the tools I have without often cutting the whole wire!! Do “they” make wire strippers for such small gauge wire? Also, do you all solder such small connection wires? Or simply use heat shrink wrapping? What’s the best way(s) to work with such small wires? If you solder, can you please elaborate as to how or point me to a video perhaps? Bear in mind that these Atlas switch machine wires are relatively short, and coming out under the layout framework can mean very little room to work in an otherwise awkwardly small space! Help! Mike

 

[flyboy2610]

I have these for stripping small wires:

https://www.amazon.com/DOWELL-Stripper-Multi-Function-Tool%EF%BC%8CProfessional-Craftsmanship/dp/B07D25N45F

I've been quite pleased with them, they work very well.

 

[santafewillie]

That tool that Flyboy posted looks just right. In my case for fine wires like that, I am able to grip the wires a certain way and strip the insulation with my fingernails. You might also look up "spade tips" or "fork tips" to attach to the fine wires that make it easier to attach them to terminals. Personally, I have switched to ground throws as they work for me; but I do not have any situation where multiple switches need to be thrown at once, and most all of my switches can be easily reached from the layout edge.

 

[Mixed Freight]

Hi OgreMike,

I picked up a set of strippers similar to what flyboy linked to. Can't remember where, seems like maybe a local hardware store? Or maybe Harbor Freight? At any rate, it strips the insulation from 20 ga. down to 30 ga. wires. And does a surprisingly good job of it.

A smaller soldering iron, or one that can be dialed down quite a bit, is very useful for these smaller wires. Too large of an iron, and even the radiant heat emitted by the tip will melt the plastic insulation back far more than you bargained for. In example, for 24 ga. wire, I use a cheapy 30 watt pencil-type soldering iron just because it's always handy. I have to take care to get in and get out quick to avoid melting the insulation back. And sometimes protect the insulation with a damp sponge or similar. An even smaller iron, about the 15~20 watt range, would undoubtedly be much better for 24 ga. wires.

And If you're using 24 ga. stranded wire, you may find 24 ga. solid wire a little easier to work with, especially for switch machines. Since the switch machine wires are generally never subjected to flexing once installed, may as well take the easy approach here.

 

[OgreMike]

Thanks guys! Yeah . . . A big “duhhh” from me is all I can say. Yes, I’ve discovered that Lowes has wire strippers for wire gauges down to 30! Can’t believe I was so dumb as to not figure it out on my own!

 

[OgreMike]

Hey, here’s an AR question . . . Do I understand correctly that a reverse loop (I have 3 on the layout I’m building) should only be powered by the AR unit itself? No other bus should be connected? In my case, I’m looking at Digitrax AR1s. The wiring appears to call for two power lines coming into the AR1 from the mainline BEFORE the gap, then the feeder lines going from the AR1 to the loop AFTER the gap. And of course, both ends of the loop are gapped. Can you run multiple pairs of feeders from the AR1 around the loop it services? Or does one feeder pair suffice for the whole loop? Right now, my loops are fed by ”detection section“ busses thru a Digitrax PM74. The 74 is supposed to be configurable for AR, but I’m having a hard time getting it programmed to do this. Thus my new interest in the AR1s. Comments most welcome! Mike

 

[Mixed Freight]

"Can you run multiple pairs of feeders from the AR1 around the loop it services? Or does one feeder pair suffice for the whole loop?"

Hi OgreMike,

In my opinion, either way is fine. If you start out with nice, tight metal rail joiners connecting all the rails within the reverse loop, then one pair of reverse loop feeders to the loop should suffice. However, over time, expansion, contraction, and oxidation could cause some electrical gremlins to start popping up. In which case you may want to either........ install more feeders to the rails, or........ go ahead and solder all the metal rail joiners within the reverse loop. Of course, you could go ahead and do either one of these from the git-go, and thereby eliminate most, if not all, potential gremlins from the very start.

Myself? I'm a believer in minimal wiring. So I normally solder every metal rail joiner in sight (including turnouts ) and run just one pair of wires to the reverse loop, or to the block, or to the whatever. Other folks may not want to solder their rail joiners at all for a variety of different reasons, and therefore simply run more jumper wires to help insure good electrical conductivity throughout the loop or block.

Like I say, either way is fine, and either way works good. It all depends on what works best for you.

 

[OgreMike]

"Can you run multiple pairs of feeders from the AR1 around the loop it services? Or does one feeder pair suffice for the whole loop?"

Hi OgreMike,

In my opinion, either way is fine. If you start out with nice, tight metal rail joiners connecting all the rails within the reverse loop, then one pair of reverse loop feeders to the loop should suffice. However, over time, expansion, contraction, and oxidation could cause some electrical gremlins to start popping up. In which case you may want to either........ install more feeders to the rails, or........ go ahead and solder all the metal rail joiners within the reverse loop. Of course, you could go ahead and do either one of these from the git-go, and thereby eliminate most, if not all, potential gremlins from the very start.

Myself? I'm a believer in minimal wiring. So I normally solder every metal rail joiner in sight (including turnouts ) and run just one pair of wires to the reverse loop, or to the block, or to the whatever. Other folks may not want to solder their rail joiners at all for a variety of different reasons, and therefore simply run more jumper wires to help insure good electrical conductivity throughout the loop or block.

Like I say, either way is fine, and either way works good. It all depends on what works best for you.

So if I’m reading this correctly, powering an AR1 either thru direct track connections on either side of the polarity shift “gap” or in the same manner, by wiring the AR1 to the mainline bus BEFORE the polarity shift gap and also to the loop bus AFTER should work? I’m trying to figure out why I can’t get my DCC loco to auto-reverse at the gap in question and proceed straight thru. Instead, the system senses a short and shuts down both sections at the gap instead of allowing the loco to continue unimpeded.

 

[Mixed Freight]

So if I’m reading this correctly, powering an AR1 either thru direct track connections on either side of the polarity shift “gap” or in the same manner, by wiring the AR1 to the mainline bus BEFORE the polarity shift gap and also to the loop bus AFTER should work? I’m trying to figure out why I can’t get my DCC loco to auto-reverse at the gap in question and proceed straight thru. Instead, the system senses a short and shuts down both sections at the gap instead of allowing the loco to continue unimpeded.

Well, hate to admit it, but since I don't have one of these devices or never had experience with one, that's above my pay grade right at the moment.
Hopefully someone with some experience can jump in with the answer. In the meantime, I'll try and do some research and see what I can come up with, when I have some time to pursue it. I'd also kinda' like to know, maybe I can move up a pay grade or two.