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You might have gotten more submissions if you'd have either set the mainline minimum radius at 18" or expanded the size to 5x10 while keeping the 22" minimum radius. I for one have plenty of plans already drawn up that would meet those criteria. BTW, looking at both designs only the winner...

Have you considered legs under the benchwork at the ends of the duckunder? That looks like an awfully long section to be unsupported.

The best suggestion that I can give is don't. Lift out or swing sections can be an endless source of derailments and frustration. Better to loop the track back on either side of the doorway if you have room. Or build the benchwork high enough that you can duck under the layout.

A couple of things to be aware of if you're going to try to build the Jerome & SOuthwestern. 1. the track plan, in order to save spave, used 18-22" radius curved switches. These are no longer made, and if you do find them used they will usually have brass rail. 2. The branchline on the track...

i have made most of my ties out of cut down matchsticks. i glue them down and ballast the track before i lay the rail, and have found that this helps keep the ties from splitting. i have used mostly micro engineering spikes as they are what i can find in my area. matchstick ties glued directly...

i have used tru scale roadbed in the past and found it far superior to homasote. it holds spikes much better, and doesn't warp like homasote. with my latest layout due to the scarcity of tru scale, i have elected to lay track directly on the subroadbed, which is white pine. it hold the spikes...