Search results

Seconding the correct way to secure the load, there should be 2 straps within the first 4' of the load according to current DOT regulations. This is to reduce the risk of load shift into the rear of the cab in the event of sudden braking. Some states require the rear to be strapped the same way...

I've seen some pretty silly stuff done to model railroading before, but I gotta say, this takes the cake. Waving your hand over the collectors as a means of regulating speed? Now that's just plain funny.

Better slow and accurate than fast and illegible.

Here are a few more pics.

Here are a few shots of the new extension. Main line is now connected and can handle through trains. Still need to add some more sidings and industries, with the major new industry being the power plant with balloon track above the helix. This section has 2 passing sidings, the first, on the...

All I can say is proof read it. Lots of typo's in it.

Here is a link for turnout controllers such as tortoise.http://www.ncedcc.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=7&Itemid=1&vmcchk=1&Itemid=1 Here is a link to a detector for occupancy...

How much room are you wanting to allow for your yard? Length, width. With a small layout you would be better served with an industry and simulate your yard with a couple tail tracks that disapear into the backboard or behind your backdrop. That allows you to simulate interchange, gives you...

Kind of hard to tell on the yard, but this is what I see in whats shown: Sidings are to short, you will only be able to fit 1 or 2 cars cleanly on the shortest of them. I don't see a run-around or escape track. This is a must if you don't want captured engines waiting on cars to be pulled to...

Deffinately a model. No question in my mind at all.

Contrary to popular belief, just because its a model train doesn't make it a collectors item. Most of the older stuff was flat out junk. Sure it was good for the time, but with the advances made in engines, wheels, tooling, and any number of other areas, you will be hard pressed to get "top...

Believe it or not, the plastic is so thin after stretching that it is extremely flexible. I'm talking to the point that you could almost tie it in a knot. Yet at the same time there is enough memory in the plastic that it stands up and holds its shape nicely. The way I do mine is I heat the...

The way I make mine is to heat an old model parts tree and stretch it til it is hair fine. This typically yeilds several antenas and doesn't cost a cent.

I was stationed at Polk back in the early 80's. I remember they had a hobby/computer/game store on the corner of 3rd and Texas. Spent many a day there playing Star Fleet Battles and looking at the layout along a side wall. Wasn't much of a hobby shop though, didn't have anything in stock, you...

Here is a look at one of mine. All engines on my layout are required to have some form of safety lighting, either strobes or ditch lights. My ditch lights are always on and alternate when the horn is pressed.

My best guess would be cardstock with either a spray adhesive or a rubber cement brushed on the surface. Roll it out with a wall paper roller to remove any bubbles. Actually a pretty neat idea for a very realistic look.

I'm a big fan of Pine-Sol for removing decals. A 15 minute soak and the decals wipe right off. (Those that haven't floated free on their own that is. Will remove latex based paints as well.) Rinse thoroughly in warm water and you are ready to go.

Here is a short vid of a typical train length running past a new section of the layout, just exiting the helix.

Yeah, go to the bus. You can effectively isolate either leg, keep plugging away at it. This is where a meter or test light comes in real handy. I use several different testers I have made, from a buzzer that detects a short with the power off, to a light that is used when the power is on...

OOOp,,,I see where I screwed up....there, that should fix it. Forgot to allow for the Wye lead and only isolated the return loop.