CambriaArea51
Well-Known Member
Looking at a few videos on CSX coal cars I noticed a few had paint peeling exposing the aluminum underside. I had some aluminum paint and decided to try it out. One not done and one done. Not to sure though.
Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread
- Thread starter TLOC
- Start date
Jaz avalley
Station cat
CambriaArea51
Well-Known Member
Today yes, but they still use bottom drop in some applications. The time frame of that car would be bottom drop.
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
All bottom drop nowadays, as I've posted already.
Jaz avalley
Station cat
I am liking it, do you intend to dirty it as well.
fyi if you ever fancy giving the wagon a dent, heat a spoon and press the plastic, I have tried it on a wheel…not on rolling stock!
Attachments
Jaz avalley
Station cat
But I model the old mines and I’ll refrain from adding pictures here, I keep stepping sideways too much already, grins sheepishly
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
I know, for the era you model and I used to model your correct, (I always wanted a side or end offloading ramp but no longer) but not for the era we're looking at.
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
Have to admit, I'm not a fan of this, looks too deliberate to me, sorry
CambriaArea51
Well-Known Member
Coal cars don't get dented like the gondola car that get different types of loads.
I'm thinking of toning it down a bit. You can see how this one the aluminum is a bit dirty. A bit of earth airbrushed should do the trick.
Jaz avalley
Station cat
I bought these cheap
not the best models
airbrushed a dull grey
then worked on a rusty finish
no upgrade to the inside
just paint
paints and DCC concepts powders in rusts
and their black
white acrylic for the condition.
I cut some !0 thousand thick plastic strips to add some missing detail and glue on, used a reference site to get a decent reference to use
not the best models
airbrushed a dull grey
then worked on a rusty finish
no upgrade to the inside
just paint
paints and DCC concepts powders in rusts
and their black
white acrylic for the condition.
I cut some !0 thousand thick plastic strips to add some missing detail and glue on, used a reference site to get a decent reference to use
CambriaArea51
Well-Known Member
No problemHave to admit, I'm not a fan of this, looks too deliberate to me, sorry
Jaz avalley
Station cat
You can see the yellow peeling,if you get a thicker glue that does not lie flat you can edge the logo and then paint the glue a toning yellow to look like it flakes,the same with sone of the grey there appears to be three layers , the grey an off white then the aluminium which here has two colours dirtying the exposed wagon
some yellow gel pens might add the graffitti, I would use tracing paper pencil it,rub the back with a hb or b pencil then redraw it onto the wagon then go over with the gel pen, that is just one way loads of other approaches would do the job as well or better.
but I like your take and I would definitely give it a go as you started.
Jaz avalley
Station cat
I always think it’s worth having a go..
with the wagon I did above I did a rake with different finishes
my idea of dents
I just went with off white paint here
you do finer work I think
with the wagon I did above I did a rake with different finishes
my idea of dents
I just went with off white paint here
you do finer work I think
TLOC
Well-Known Member
What I learned about the VMS varnishes is clean the airbrish no longer than 5 minutes after you use it. That to me is the only real issue I have with it. I spray it at 30-35psiI've a bottle of VMS which arrived last week, I'll use that on the StClair and CN cars rather than then Tamiya clear I have, I may get some Army Painters, I'll see how you get on with it first tho'
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Great start. I like it.
I had to go look at page 22. Thanks Smudge617, it was a good reminder of doing gondolas for me. I mix colors on gondola floors but your 1 color looks super. I stipple one color at a time while still wet. But like everything else, there are tons of ways to do this. The top edge you can handle when you do the sides of the cars. Or you can swipe some ofthe floor color on it now. But when you do the sides you can just start at the top edge and pull down. It will blend.
As CambriaArea51 mentioned the slide area to the bottom hatches would be smoother, less paint color, shiny like… I use the lead from a pencil on Centerbeams to create the scratches from where the forklifts would scratch the floor plates picking up, that might work for the floors here.
migalyto
Well-Known Member
Here is the first attempt:
Two things I learned.
1. 91% alcohol is way to shout for a wash.
2. Youtubers make this look really easy.
This was strictly the brown base i referred to a few posts up.
VA light rust
VA rust
Then a mix of the two in Alcohol.
Lay the good, bad, ugly on me!
UGG!!! I see I have a brush hair in the last photo.
Two things I learned.
1. 91% alcohol is way to shout for a wash.
2. Youtubers make this look really easy.
This was strictly the brown base i referred to a few posts up.
VA light rust
VA rust
Then a mix of the two in Alcohol.
Lay the good, bad, ugly on me!
UGG!!! I see I have a brush hair in the last photo.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
I have a note book I used to keep track of formula mixes. I do occasionally reference it but many things I now do by eye.
What I have started doing, especially when using the Pan Pastels is to note on the picture comment area which one I used.
example
On the above picture I added the comment from my notes finally today. I sent a picture of the trucks and PP to the client so he could decide what truck color he preferred.
migalyto
Well-Known Member
Thats a great idea.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Get the hair out… tweezers or Exacto to scratch it out and dab some more of your paint mix over it. No biggie but frustrating isn’t it?
Not sure what you mean by 91% IPA is too SHOUT for a wash. What is SHOUT?
I mix 99% Isopropyl Alcohol only with Tamiya Arcylics in my airbrush. I also use it to clean the freight car as I do not clean with warm soap and water.
I use tap water when I create washes with any of the Vallejo lines. Air, mecha, Panzer Aces or Model Color. I do not use IPA of any % with Vallejo paints. I rarely now use Vallejo Air in the airbrush but if shaken well it sprays nicely. For me the tip dry with VA is not worth my time, Tamiya for me works great. YMMV
Many of the YT content providers make it look easy by way of editing and not commenting about issues. I am now friendly with a few of the YT content weathering guys. One says he will do 4-5 makeovers to get what he wants to show. Another is Dan Arnold who is Dansrailroad2011 on YTwho shows it straight, rarely retakes and shows it as he does it. He is very good, explains well and a must see.
