Engine lubrication ...


goscrewyourselves

goscrewyourselves

I'm the one
I have a few Kato N Scale Diesel engines and a couple of N Scale Steam engines that haven't been run for almost 12 months and am wanting to give them a service, so to speak, before I do run them again.

What parts of the engine should be lubricated?
What is the best way to lubricate those parts?
What do I use as a lubricant?
 
wombat457 said:
What do I use as a lubricant?
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I have a set of Labelle lubricants made specifically for model trains. After I got this set i've only used it and the motor bearing lubricant, and electro-lub from areo-car.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Labelle-Lubricants-LAB1001-Ho-Complete-Lubrication-Kits/105424117
http://achlubes.com/

I like the needle point applicators of the areo-car products. Lets me get the stuff exactly where I want it.

You want grease on the worms.
I put the light weight stuff on my steam loco drive and valve gear.
Rather obviously, I also lubricate the motor bearing.
Axles depend and are debatable since the Derlin type plastic is supposed to be self lubricating. If it is a brass axle in a brass bushing, then definitely.
 
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I know this will be looked at askance by some, but I have used automatic transmission fluid on all my steam locomotives' valve gear, rods, and axles. Since about 2005. However, ensure the one you use, if you have some dregs lying about in an open plastic bottle, is safe for plastics and for paints. In N. America, the variety known universally as Dexron III Mercon is such a safe transmission fluid. Dexron III is formulated to spare plastic seals inside transmissions.

Why transmission fluid? Because it flows easily, is highly viscous, has great surface tension, is anti-oxidant and anti-corrosive, and is generally a great lubricant available in most garages....household garages. By the time you add a quart/liter, you still have a tsp or more left in the bottle. Dip your needle applicator into a bit of the red stuff in the bottle cap and touch the tip to your axles' bushings and to rod pins.

Thirteen years later, the paint on all my tenders and locomotives is unmarred, none of my plastics (loco shells and railroad ties) have been harmed, my steamers' valve gear and rods churn silently and freely, and I still have about 70% of those dregs I mentioned.

Before I tore down my second layout, I decided to try an experiment. I wiped a good portion of my single track main with ATF. Then I let my a train run around the main for about 15 minutes. The grades were near 3.5%. There was no slippage, oddly, but there was also no disruption of electrical contact between the rails and the metal pickup tires under the tender and locomotive. None.
 
Crandell,

Thanks for the tip and I have heard about using ATF for cleaning track before but never thought the suggestion was serious. No disrespect to anyone else but this sounds like a good, cheap and readily available option.
 
Dexron3 does have a bit of a Cat smell to it, so be sparing on your track. Try not to let any get into the ballast.
 
tootnkumin said:
There's always the oil trough method. I'll leave you to imagine what that is.
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Ahh, are you not suppose to use that method??? Oops ... :(

GNMT76 said:
Toots,

This book may be of help:

https://www.amazon.com/Maintaining-Repairing-Scale-Trains-Railroader/dp/0890243247

It's the only such title I've seen for comprehensive do-it-yourself repair and maintenance of locomotives and rolling stock, suggested to me by a member of the Model Railroader forum.
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Think I might get a copy of that as well.
 
GNMT76,

I see in the description for that book it stipulates DC engines - I am assuming that the same applies to DCC engines as well, right?
 
wombat457 said:
I see in the description for that book it stipulates DC engines - I am assuming that the same applies to DCC engines as well, right?
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While I do not have this book, I would presume they have specified that to distinguish this from maintaining the Lionel / American Flyer AC type locomotives. They are very different concepts in power pick up, distribution, and motor design.

I can still imagine there are several sections that would be different for a DCC controlled pike. It says, "make simple electrical ... repairs" which could of course be different, also "maintain a ... trouble-free layout" that probably contains some electrical stuff that could be different too.
 
Crap ... I'll have to look around for a DCC equivalent or one that includes DCC then when the time comes. This is going to be a "newby type of question" then:

If the only difference (essentially) between a DC engine and a DCC question is the decoder that is installed, how does that effect the lubricating of the engine?

You can't tell me that "they" make DCC Equipped, DCC Ready and DC engines differently with regards the lubrication and maintenance of the "working parts" of the engine. You buy a DC engine, you can convert it to DCC ... the actual engine hasn't changed.
 
The book was published in 1999. The DCC standard wasn't published until 2001 (the working group started in 1992). So there was no DCC when the book was published (though there were a number of digital control systems). Horseman is right - the DC reference is to separate it from AF/Lionel AC systems.

So Tony's assumption is correct: there is no difference between the lubrication of a DC locomotive and a DCC locomotive. My only concern (not having read the book) would be if there is any recommendation on motor lubrication, motors have advanced a lot since the book was published.
 
Kevin,

You make a very good point regarding the advancements in motors. No doubt, what worked 20 years ago may not be appropriate for today's engines. That being the only possible "flaw" with the book then, it (the book) might be a good guide for engine lubrication and maintenance and handy to have around.
 
All you can do with the Can motors that are prevalent today, is a spot of oil at each end where the shafts come out. A light general purpose mineral oil for bronze bushings (or save a bit of that synthetic from your car oil engine oil). Most, unless doing a total tear down (I'll us the US terminology here Tony) are pretty difficult to get into with the flywheels and mounting cradle in the way. And that's HO.
 
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