flyboy2610
Loveably weird
I couldn't decide whether to put this here or in my layout build thread, http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/...ion-Pacific-Soggy-Bottoms-Division-(HO-scale). In the end I decided to put it here, as this may become something of a semi-major project. I will add a note in my build thread directing interested people here.
The packing plant and icing facility will occupy the left hand side of the industrial area on my layout. In order to get it to fit the space available, the plant will have to be built 'backwards'. This means that the stock pens and loading ramp will have to on the right side of the plant, rather than the left side. Looking at the directions, this seems quite doable. The loading ramp will enter the building on the second floor at the left side of the building.
The kit is made so that the left front and right rear wall have an insert glued into place, with either a door or window occupying the top of of the insert. I should be able to put the door on the left side of the rear wall and a window in the insert. The loading ramp looks like it should be able to be constructed so that the bottom is to the right rather than to the left. The boiler house and smokestack can remain on the left side of the building.
This should be a fun build, but it will probably take awhile to complete it. Oh, well. It's a hobby after all, isn't it?
The first thing I did was to trim down a piece of 1/8" hardboard to cover most of the top of my workbench. I really do not need small pieces falling through the crack, and this way the build surface is flatter as well.
I read a post on here about Walthers kits shifting production over to China from Denmark, and how the Chinese kits use a different formulation of plastic that's harder and Testors tube glue doesn't work very well on it. Like the plastic is more ABS than styrene. Liquid glue is recommended for the Chinese kits, as well as thorough washing since the Chinese don't do that and the mold release agent is still on the kits. They are shinier and have a filmy feel to them.
I checked the box of my kit, and happy day it's a Denmark kit!
I had a partial bottle of Testors liquid cement, but it's getting old and I don't know how potent it still is. I also discovered I still have a second, unopened bottle! I recently purchased a bottle of Plastruct Plastic Weld cement as well. This kit will be the first time I've used it. I have a tube of Testors airplane cement as well. While it gives very solid joints, it tends to spider web as well. I use it mainly for gluing small parts into their holes, using a toothpick as an applicator.
Opening the box reveals parts in red, black, grey, and tan plastic. There a number of small parts loose in the box, so be careful when opening it! There is an instruction sheet and a sheet of decals with 5 different company names for the plant. Given Nebraska's pioneer heritage (the first homestead in the nation under the Homestead Act of 1862 is about 45 minutes from here https://www.nationalparks.org/explore-parks/homestead-national-monument-america ) I am leaning towards the Pioneer Packing Company name, although there would be a bit of irony for a plant built on flat ground to be the Hilcrest Packing Company!
The first thing I did was to thoroughly wash all the parts for the exterior of the building with warm water and some orange dish soap to remove oil and any release agent that may still be on the plastic. I used a toothbrush (which will never again be used to brush teeth) to scrub them well. They were then thoroughly rinsed and laid on paper towels. I patted them dry, and they will be allowed to dry until after church tomorrow afternoon. I plan to give them all a wash of acrylic paint (white with a touch of grey) to bring out the detail of the mortar lines. The directions for the smokestack show it being assembled from 4 parts with a ring in the inside middle and a top ring on the outside. Walthers must have changed that as the smokestack came wrapped in paper, in a factory sealed box, just as you see it here.
I look forward to building this. I've never done the brick mortar line wash thing before, so I hope it comes out OK. That's the nice thing about acrylics: If you don't like the way it came out, just wash it off and try again. It's not permanent until it's sealed with a dulling spray.
So go easy on me, guys. It's my first time.
The packing plant and icing facility will occupy the left hand side of the industrial area on my layout. In order to get it to fit the space available, the plant will have to be built 'backwards'. This means that the stock pens and loading ramp will have to on the right side of the plant, rather than the left side. Looking at the directions, this seems quite doable. The loading ramp will enter the building on the second floor at the left side of the building.
The kit is made so that the left front and right rear wall have an insert glued into place, with either a door or window occupying the top of of the insert. I should be able to put the door on the left side of the rear wall and a window in the insert. The loading ramp looks like it should be able to be constructed so that the bottom is to the right rather than to the left. The boiler house and smokestack can remain on the left side of the building.
This should be a fun build, but it will probably take awhile to complete it. Oh, well. It's a hobby after all, isn't it?
The first thing I did was to trim down a piece of 1/8" hardboard to cover most of the top of my workbench. I really do not need small pieces falling through the crack, and this way the build surface is flatter as well.
I read a post on here about Walthers kits shifting production over to China from Denmark, and how the Chinese kits use a different formulation of plastic that's harder and Testors tube glue doesn't work very well on it. Like the plastic is more ABS than styrene. Liquid glue is recommended for the Chinese kits, as well as thorough washing since the Chinese don't do that and the mold release agent is still on the kits. They are shinier and have a filmy feel to them.
I checked the box of my kit, and happy day it's a Denmark kit!
I had a partial bottle of Testors liquid cement, but it's getting old and I don't know how potent it still is. I also discovered I still have a second, unopened bottle! I recently purchased a bottle of Plastruct Plastic Weld cement as well. This kit will be the first time I've used it. I have a tube of Testors airplane cement as well. While it gives very solid joints, it tends to spider web as well. I use it mainly for gluing small parts into their holes, using a toothpick as an applicator.
Opening the box reveals parts in red, black, grey, and tan plastic. There a number of small parts loose in the box, so be careful when opening it! There is an instruction sheet and a sheet of decals with 5 different company names for the plant. Given Nebraska's pioneer heritage (the first homestead in the nation under the Homestead Act of 1862 is about 45 minutes from here https://www.nationalparks.org/explore-parks/homestead-national-monument-america ) I am leaning towards the Pioneer Packing Company name, although there would be a bit of irony for a plant built on flat ground to be the Hilcrest Packing Company!
The first thing I did was to thoroughly wash all the parts for the exterior of the building with warm water and some orange dish soap to remove oil and any release agent that may still be on the plastic. I used a toothbrush (which will never again be used to brush teeth) to scrub them well. They were then thoroughly rinsed and laid on paper towels. I patted them dry, and they will be allowed to dry until after church tomorrow afternoon. I plan to give them all a wash of acrylic paint (white with a touch of grey) to bring out the detail of the mortar lines. The directions for the smokestack show it being assembled from 4 parts with a ring in the inside middle and a top ring on the outside. Walthers must have changed that as the smokestack came wrapped in paper, in a factory sealed box, just as you see it here.
I look forward to building this. I've never done the brick mortar line wash thing before, so I hope it comes out OK. That's the nice thing about acrylics: If you don't like the way it came out, just wash it off and try again. It's not permanent until it's sealed with a dulling spray.
So go easy on me, guys. It's my first time.
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