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I spent over an hour each on two of my older Atlas turnouts trying to figure out the same problem. By tweaking the point rails and making sure the adjacent tracks and turnouts were all on the same plane, they run sweet now. Try running a single car over them ultra slowly, watching each wheel...

Based on my limited research, it seems that LEDs themselves require DC voltage, so I will likely have to convert my AC voltage to DC voltage or just use a DC transformer instead. I will have to experiment with what voltage/resistors provide the best appearance. I want the dwarf lights visible...

make sure you let the air out so they last longer in storage ;)

The ones I noted earlier are 2 led (red/green) units with three wires.

yes, exactly that. I was thinking I would, for example, have 4 reds and 2 greens activated when I throw the switch one way, and 2 greens and 4 reds activated when throwing the switch the other way. It's more for appearance than function, just to add a little interest to the layout. If I daisy...

Thanks for that. On my small layout, my plan is to install maybe 6 signals around the tracks, and I'll likely have them each illuminated (either red or green) all the time, which I'll have to factor in when choosing a resistor value, and use a single switch to alternate the colours. After...

So these will run off of AC voltage then, or AC or DC or does it matter?

I'm just planning for the future so they will be LED's. But something like this style;

So I just need to throw a 150 ohm resistor on a 12vac supply wire then?

I'm planning a new small layout and like the look of those little 2 or 3 color dwarf signal lights. While most use them in conjunction with a turnout system, I plan to use them mainly for decorative purposes, and wish to power them using a 12VAC transformer. My plan is to hook up a two or...

As a follow-up, I'm in the process of tuning up the limited rolling stock I inherited, plus recent additions of used cars purchased at a local train show. After making sure everything had Kadee couplers, and metal wheels, I went through the process of verifying car weighting using NMRA...

Slack sounds

If you every stood beside a freight train when they first start moving, you'd hear all the slack being taken up at each coupling with an echo of clunks all the way to the last car.

I realize that things can happen when fragile objects are shipped, but when manufacturers are charging $45-$80 for essentially a plastic model of fairly simple complexity (in most cases), it should come with some responsibility on their part to meet certain uniform standards as far as weight...

Also curious if all the main brands today, mid-grade and higher, adhere to NMRA standards as far as weighting? Does one need to still tweak brand new modern cars right out of the box?

With a 4 x 8 layout, all my curves are tight. lol It's amazing how much added friction the wheels create in turns as the wheel flanges rub against the inside of the rail.

My rolling stock is a mix of mid-grade Athearn, Bachman and Accurail from the 80's and in most cases I had to add between 1/2 to 1 oz of additional weight to each unit. In one closed hopper, it required an additional 1.25 oz. The cars feel heavy but roll much smoother and carry more momentum...

It's not fun. It's a labor of love. lol

When weighting a caboose, do you measure the body length only, or include the front and rear porches in the length measurement? Also, any quick/easy methods for adding weight to a tank car? Mine has a narrow spine that is too small to hide any weighting in. I've heard of inserting ball...