What locomotives are most reliable in ho

[Jim at BSME]

I had a Bachmann loco once, a GE err something, the metal chassis had a very nasty attack of matzak rot and it was duly disposed off spares/repairs.

Not touched them since.

Zinc rot (aka matzak rot or zamak rot) is not unique to Bachmann and anything manufactured after about 1960 should not have the problem. It was actually the corrosion of the zinc alloy due to impurities in the metal alloy used for diecasting.

 

[Jim at BSME]

Not alot of solid evidence either way concerning Bachmann locomotives, some say a few are great others tell me to stay away from them. Well I like smooth running locomotives. I have bought one Atlas gp38 no dcc. Some of the details are applied while others were applied by me. I got them done but instructions are sketchy about where they go. I got about 92% of the details on. Not bad for a guy who is 78.
But in the future I will look for a more detailed locomotive. Btw the engine runs smooth and quiet

Atlas engines after they went to Kato drives (late 80s early 90s?) were very smooth runners.

As with most things when it comes to model railroaders they will tell you their experiences which may disagree with others. And then you run into the age of those experiences for instance N scale in the 70s it is a totally difference experience than in the 90s or later. Also you have to problem of a bad batch of engines being extrapolated to all engines of a particular manufacture.

 

[TLOC]

I know I’ve responded before but…

I do commission weathering for diesels and rolling stock. Whenever I get a diesel to weather I test it first and then again after weathering. This is subjective from notes I keep but for good running units I’d go this way

Kato
Atlas
Bowser
Scaletrains Rivet Counters
Athearn Genesis

I’ve done Athearn BlueBox units, Athearn RTR, Scaletrains operator units but not DCC, Bachmann and Walthers Mainline units. They are good runners but not as nice as my list of 5.

I have only weathered 2 Rapido units. Both for Marlin39 here on the forum. Not a good enough sampling to add to the top 5 I listed. But if you want a GE 44 ton diesel, the 2 units I did for David rank right out of the box as 2 of the best running and sounding I have ever tested.

 

[Jim at BSME]

I know I’ve responded before but…

I do commission weathering for diesels and rolling stock. Whenever I get a diesel to weather I test it first and then again after weathering. This is subjective from notes I keep but for good running units I’d go this way

Kato
Atlas
Bowser
Scaletrains Rivet Counters
Athearn Genesis

I’ve done Athearn BlueBox units, Athearn RTR, Scaletrains operator units but not DCC, Bachmann and Walthers Mainline units. They are good runners but not as nice as my list of 5.

I have only weathered 2 Rapido units. Both for Marlin39 here on the forum. Not a good enough sampling to add to the top 5 I listed. But if you want a GE 44 ton diesel, the 2 units I did for David rank right out of the box as 2 of the best running and sounding I have ever tested.

I'm surprised there is a difference in the running between scaletrains rivet counter and operator. As understand the mechanisms to be the same, just the level of detail applied to be different.

 

[TLOC]

I'm surprised there is a difference in the running between scaletrains rivet counter and operator. As understand the mechanisms to be the same, just the level of detail applied to be different.

I know the mechanisms are supposed to be the same but…

The Operator units I weathered were DCC ready units and my view on diesels is subjective.

To me in DC they just were nowhere near the way the DCC equipped Rivet Counters ran. Checking my notes I have done 12 STX DCC ready units. All the notes for testing have the same words, loud grinders. I have done 53 Rivet counters with no negatives about running characteristics. Light packages and terrible couplers but nothing bad about running

I love the Katos but for today’s train models the details are way lacking

 

[jmupton2000]

Zinc rot (aka matzak rot or zamak rot) is not unique to Bachmann and anything manufactured after about 1960 should not have the problem. It was actually the corrosion of the zinc alloy due to impurities in the metal alloy used for diecasting.

After 1960 should not have the problem but models manufactured by UK manufacturers were and indeed still are suffering chronic matzak rot issues in models made as late as 2018. The Hornby Class 31 made in the last fifteen years was particularly notorious for disintegrating chassis frames that crumbled to dust, the Heljan Class 47 used to expand and cause the cab ends of the bodies to effectively explode and the Bachmann BR(S) N Class had frames that went banana shaped and trashed the boiler and fittings in the space of just months.

 

[bnsf971]

Zinc rot (aka matzak rot or zamak rot) is not unique to Bachmann and anything manufactured after about 1960 should not have the problem. It was actually the corrosion of the zinc alloy due to impurities in the metal alloy used for diecasting.

That is factually incorrect. A quick Google search for "zinc pest" will result in dozens, if not hundreds, of modern-day zinc rot horror stories, a couple of them suffered by yours truly. One of which was a DCC and sound equipped Atlas SD35.

 

[Selector]

I have an early 2000's Trix GG1 electric that has a metal shell, a very nice locomotive. Unfortunately, now nearly 20 years in my use (I think it probably sat on the seller's shelf for three or four years prior to its sale to me), when I invert it and look at the nether plate cover and sideframe, it shows evidence of 'florescence', or that separation of the metals into oxides that is evinced by white powder or crystals. It's not bad, but it's quite obvious outside the original paint. I hope it lasts until the last time I feel I can run trains, probably within 15-18 years if my dad's longevity, still alive at 95, is anything like a promise.

 

[Jim at BSME]

That is factually incorrect. A quick Google search for "zinc pest" will result in dozens, if not hundreds, of modern-day zinc rot horror stories, a couple of them suffered by yours truly. One of which was a DCC and sound equipped Atlas SD35.

Please note I said SHOULD not WOULD, just because some locomotives manufactured are still experiencing zinc pest due to impurities in the zamak alloy does not mean all will. I only know about what I read about zamak being produced in the US after 1960 should not have impurities to cause zinc pest. Granted most locomotives are manufactured in China where they may not care about the purity of the zamak alloy.

 

[TheXModelRailroader]

ATHERN BLUE BOX!!! Oh, wait... I said that already...

 

[Colorado Midland Modeler]

On the subject of zinc rot, or whatever your preferred term is, for older/second hand locomotives I would definitely stay away from anything made by New One, including certain AristoCraft and GHC models. I acquired five before I knew better. Fortunately, they didn't cost much and I did get to enjoy them for awhile. I lost a GHC Atlantic to zinc rot, I have two AristoCraft 2-8-0s that I'm going to have to retire soon due to zinc rot, one has it in the frame and cylinders, the other has it in the drive wheels and possibly the frame, I have an AristoCraft 2-4-2 that lost its original tender trucks to zinc rot, and an AristoCraft 2-6-0 that lost its entire tender to the rot. I have also seen many different New One made engines of various types on ebay that are clearly suffering zinc rot, often quite severe. Interestingly, the Atlantics made by them seem to suffer the most from it, with camelbacks as a close second.

 

[davidone]

Thanks guys for all your insights, plenty to think about.


Dave

 

[rgeiter]

Atlas and Kato are my “go to” models. Stewart was another one of my favorite, now Bowser. When I want to spend a lot more, Rapido and Scale trains fit that bill. Athearn Genesis? Haven’t bought one of those in years. Can’t confirm the durability on those. The ones I do have are ok.

 

[davidone]

What i have seen and looked at so far is that I have liked Atlas, Athearn. I'm not looking for the most detailed or dcc. Ill be running mostly straight dc. Sound in ho is basically annoying but that is just me. You can only get so much sound out of the speaker size in ho!
I can still add detail if needed when the cost of Athearn genesis and scale trains locos are just priced too high for me. They are incredible none the less. At this stage of my life I just want to run trains through some nice scenery.
I should be able to start sometime in the fall, it's now time to buy a few things including locos and cars. Now on to the fun stuff

Dave

 

[bnsf971]

What i have seen and looked at so far is that I have liked Atlas, Athearn. I'm not looking for the most detailed or dcc. Ill be running mostly straight dc. Sound in ho is basically annoying but that is just me. You can only get so much sound out of the speaker size in ho!
I can still add detail if needed when the cost of Athearn genesis and scale trains locos are just priced too high for me. They are incredible none the less. At this stage of my life I just want to run trains through some nice scenery.
I should be able to start sometime in the fall, it's now time to buy a few things including locos and cars. Now on to the fun stuff

Dave

Basically any locomotive that has "Kato" stamped on the bottom will be a good runner, and without all the microscopic details that can easily break or fall off. If you want simple and reliable rolling stock, most Athearn will be, again, reliable without a lot of delicate details. These are what was referred to back in the day as "shake the box" kits, in that you could almost assemble them by gently shaking the box it came in, and it would assemble itself. If you go down that route, before you assemble them, grab a can of black spray paint of nearly any brand, and paint the steel weight that comes with the kit before assembly.