Question about the type of turnout I have

[tc1961N]

I am using Tru Scale turn outs from who knows when, they are old but most were new in packaging.

I'm trying to verify what type they are. I have everything wired up as shown and when I go straight thru from the bottom, all is well.

When I go thru the diverging route I get a short.

But if I disconnect just the red line marked with an X from power I can go thru the diverging route with no issues.

I'm figuring to toggle the red line off if I want to take the diverging route

I understand power routing turnouts,I think. power goes wherever the turn out is pointing on both rails.

I am using an ohm meter to see how they work and I understand where power is lost on my turnout, just curious what they are called so I can understand them and know what others might be the same way.

Thanks




.

 

[Michael B]

Picture of the turnout would help.

My guess is that they are power routing.
In which case, you will get shorts with them until you
use insulating rail joiners at each turnout.

For simple sidings just let the turnout power that siding- iow, use no insulating joiners or feeders for THAT siding.

 

[tc1961N]

Here is the turnout. when I drop (red)power on the straight thru left rail I can take the diverging route with no short, then reconnect to go straight thru with no short

 

[Michael B]

You must run air gaps, or insulating joiners with those turnouts.
You cannot avoid it!

We are talking two air gaps per turnout.
Right at the top of the turnout, only the two inside rails.

Use your hobby knife to remove/destroy the ones you already have installed. When removed, you must have an air gap - the rails must not touch. Note, if this process results in dead(unpowered) track rails, you must run additional power wires to those rails to
power them.

Usually these type of turnouts use a tortoise, or simular machine, to throw the switch. Such machines are used because they have
built in switches that change the polarity automatically - so you
do not have to worry about it. They will also power the switch itself more reliably, and they can operate signals.

 

[Michael B]

Here is the turnout. when I drop (red)power on the straight thru left rail I can take the diverging route with no short, then reconnect to go straight thru with no short
View attachment 254640

This turnout is defective.
You must either repair the defect at the frog, or replace it.
There is no flangeway on the straight route...

Looks repairable without removing it...

 

[J.Albert]

Michael B wrote:
"This turnout is defective.
You must either repair the defect at the frog, or replace it.
There is no flangeway on the straight route..."

Haha.
You never saw an old Tru-Scale turnout before.
The entire inner portion "pivoted" on the screw you see.
I think I fooled with these -- about 60 years ago.

OP:
For proper electrical operation that won't short out, you need to do one of the following:
1. put insulated rail joiners at the locations in red
or
2. cut physical gaps in the rails at the locations in yellow
(one or the other, not both)

 

[tc1961N]

Thank you!

 

[Iron Horseman]

Michael B wrote:
"This turnout is defective.
You must either repair the defect at the frog, or replace it.
There is no flangeway on the straight route..."

Haha.
You never saw an old Tru-Scale turnout before.
The entire inner portion "pivoted" on the screw you see.
I think I fooled with these -- about 60 years ago.

View attachment 254645

Wow, that is what they call a "speed turnout" as the frog rails move so there is no flange gap on the selected route! I saw prototype turnouts like this on the Rock Island when I was in high school.