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    Bachmann Spectrum 2 10 2 uneven running.

    Yep, out of quarter. I HATE plastic 'choo-choo's' for that reason. I re-quartered ALL my Bowser loco's and all my brass until someone 'borrowed' my Brazelton Auto-quarter and never returned it. Thats $175 I'll never get back. Of course that was 2003.
  2. Y

    400 Ton Coaling Tower questions

    Walthers is easier to build. Both have nice details. Walthers WOOD coaling tower is very nice too.
  3. Y

    Mallet Find!

    They were a nice kit. I built the one with a tender. MAKE SURE you have extra valve gear rivets as they wear out quickly on that loco. MOST faster than Bowser rivets.
  4. Y

    Accuracy in a Locomotive?!!

    I'd look at BRASS loco models too. For me I, like the OP, I want it as accurate as cheaply posible. I wanted all my articulated engines to pivot like the real ones. I built LOTS of Bowser kits and learned to modify their boilers and mechanics.
  5. Y

    What Era do you Model?

    1920-1940 Norfolk & Western.
  6. Y

    Not really model

    JEEEEZ!!!! Look at the amount of counterweight on the back of the crane!
  7. Y

    Figuring grade..

    Even with heavily weighted 2-8-8-2's, getting 30 cars up a 2.5% grade is a task. I actually REMOVED the weights on all my hoppers and just switched to Jay-Bee wheelsets so the weight was at the bottom of the cars.
  8. Y

    If Time and Money Was No Object . . .

    I would buy all the rights to the old Bowser HO scale steam engines and redesign the manufacturing process. 3D masters that can be scaled up to O and G scale. Corrected tenders. Corrected boilers with separate cabs. Can motors, NWSL gearboxes. New engines: N&W M class and 3 kinds of...
  9. Y

    sideshot sat

    I never realized the SP engines had Walscharts VG!
  10. Y

    Drill

    A dremel with smallest collet will be your best bet. Dremel even makes a drill press adaptor so you can mount the dremel tool and not have to hold it.
  11. Y

    sideshot sat

    Paint the driver centers! Then they won't look like toys.
  12. Y

    Relocating Stuff On Your Layout

    I used to play "Musical structures" when I was actively working on the layout. The stations and housing areas moved several times.
  13. Y

    2 'weird' issues with a new layout

    A really good book is John Armstrongs book "Track Planning for realistic Operation". Thats why I've used 24" and larger radius' and #6 and longer turnouts. I run N&W 1930's steam (USRA 2-8-8-2's etc).
  14. Y

    2 'weird' issues with a new layout

    I say its a problem with uneven and poorly layed track. My tiny little 2-8-0 HOn3 engines kept derailing and I soon discovered the track laying I did stunk. I went back to tracing radius with yard stick with holes drilled into it to correctly get those curves layed out. Easements and leveled...
  15. Y

    What is your general thoughts on your endeavor into the model railroading hobby?

    20 years ago, when my skills were at the top, I did LOTS of model making, weathering and steam loco collecting. In 2007 I had a place to build my model RR. Lots of stuff changed and my skills have decreased along with a desire to finish the layout. Glad I never weathered the track or put down...
  16. Y

    .

    I have an old Athearn kit that I had planned to turn into a steam powered pile driver as a scenery item.
  17. Y

    What is the Name of Your Model Railroad?

    N&W Sterling Hollow branch.
  18. Y

    my big boy fleet

    I don't know WHEN UP made the modification, but watching 4014 and 844 they both have a pair of steam turbogenerators where it used to be just one. Thats another mod you can do.
  19. Y

    Cat’s Head Pier

    i just copied the phrase "Sheepscot’s Cats Head Pier", pasted it into my browsers search field and saw MANY photos of it.
  20. Y

    .

    I would have re-trucked them with better wheels. Other than that Excellent job. I'm a reeferholic myself with numerous styles and owner names.




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