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Jim, Thanks for the advise. And thanks to everyone else as well
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Tomorrow I am planning on taking the pludge to drill out and file for my lighted number boards. then I can start adding all the small detail.
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I bought the shell back in Jan 07... I have spent alot of time just thinking of what and how to do this...All I know is that when this one is done, my next SD60F will be a breeze.
You know with that BLI SD40, you might consider a SD40-2F instead
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please tell me your thoughs on it?
Next I wanna fix the holes iin pilot for coupler boxes and plan on installing lighted number boards. Then I can start adding the fine detail.
Orderd to micro LED's from my LHS to use in ditch lights also.
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added updated pics on another post i started about my SD60
go to "showing off" look under Sd60 project
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Ok now
seems like I need to get my butt in gear on this project
As you can see from older pics I had a 3/16 groove milled on side of the weight where there used to be a half round groove before. After filing down thickness of 3/16 styrene strip so it would slide easier in groove. I drilled...
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I joined about year and half ago. I went there a few times. asked a few questions about weathering and all I got in response were start ass answers in return... I won't pay. guys were a bunch of stuck up snobs and rivit counters in my opinion
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My father used to drive dump truck. dump box was aluminum and he wasn't able to haul rock as it would dent and possibly puncture the side. So I would have to say i doubt they will ever get into hauling scrap
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Last night I finally was able to get the proto 2000 chassis along with the weight to fit into Kaslo's SD60F shell. Had to make a few mods to both, but nothing to hard, some minor milling is all. Hopefully more to come soon. Just saw that front isn't all the way down when I took picture.
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Sorry it took me long to get back as I took a break from working on my
SD60F for awhile. As you can see in the picture i had the top of the steel wieght milled down. I was trying to grind down front of weight to but after getting frustrated I just decided to cut the front off completely. I...
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can some one tell me if this loco is a snoot nose or not? Have decals for it and wanna paint one up. From photos I have found online looks like it may be.
What size snoot nose too? 123" 116"
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I am in the processs of making myself a SD60F. I orginally was going to do the same as you are. Use a Overland chassis with a Kaslo Shell... but after i got the chassis I realized that I didn't really like the power pick up.
I am now gonna use a Proto SD60 chassis. Gonna have to do some...
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Have you though of using the decal sheet to make yourself a template instead of masking?
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what is gouache? and where can I find it?
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Pin vises
When you get a pin vise, Do yourself a favor and stay away from any in Walters catalogs. Few I got from there are all junk. Would not tighten on a #80 drill bit. I ended up going to local industrial supply store and buying a set of tool and die makers pin vises, little bit more...
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That looks cool between the other 2 engines. How are you gonna paint it? Somehow continue the blue wave on top to match the other 2 possibly?
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Steve,
Thats gonna look cool when done, can't wait to see it. Instead of green putty have you ever thought of using CA? Thats what I do. Add Gap filling CA, then I add a few drops of Accelerator for CA. after a few minutes you can sand it down. In my opinion its stronger then green putty...
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Jerome.. I have a bottle of it now. I used it lastnight but didn't seal it yet. after I posted this I was at lhs lady there told me to try Fixatif by Krylon. Won't turn out spotty like dulecote does.
Thanks Paul i'll try that also
Doug
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Engines look great.... I am attemping weather cars first. I have used AIM Powders along with chalk. what do you use to seal after you apply the chalk? Have tried to use Testors Dullcote, but after it dries it looks all spotty. Thank you
Doug
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