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That's right. All A rails to one side and all B rails to the other. Especially those little short crossover tracks too.
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Do not count on the turnouts routing power to the track. All sections of track must have feeder wires to both rails. This way the turnout will not be required to be in a certain position to provide power to any section of track.
Bill
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Here's an update on the bridge. I repainted the bridge deck to more of a white-concrete color and also cut slits in the spline to simulate the concrete pieces of the deck.
Bill
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The background to the bridge and the whole mountain is made of cardboard strips covered with plaster soaked paper towels and rocks carved from plaster of paris. The "dirt" is dry plaster of paris mixed with dry tempura paint and sprinkled on the plaster with my wife's gravy sifter. A few light...
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The deck on the prototype is concrete and looks in really bad shape. You can see a picture of the prototype on Joel Ashcroft's site. It is a mighty hike to get up to it.
http://spcascades.railfan.net/structures/TUNNEL11eastportalButtress.jpg
I'm going to do some work on the spline to get...
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The deck is the existing spline roadbed which I use for the track base on my layout. You can see the spline painted concrete color under the track. The railing is just styrene strips.
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Sorry, I know I don't post much on here any more, but I thought I'd share a recent upgrade to my UP Cascade Subdivision layout. I have a large area that was pretty bland and I decided to add a concrete slab bridge modeled from a prototype bridge from the actual Cascade Subdivision in Oregon...
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I ended up using Bruce Chubb's Super Mini. Here's his site.
http://www.jlcenterprises.net/MR.htm
Of course this is a little over the top as far as cost goes, but you can't beat the realism. It'll require an old PC and a bit of BASIC programming. I used all ORS signals. The detectors I...
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I also use Atlas plate girder bridges for all my bridge making. Thy're inexpensive and work well when cut apart.
Bill
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One thing I can say from building my helix is that it uses up a ton of wood. There seemed to be no real way to use the wood efficiently.
Bill
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Here's a Second Attempt
This time I chose an actual background scene from the Cascade Sub. I oversprayed the background with partially transparent white to add depth. I also used feathering when I copied the foreground snips. I think this one is better.
Bill
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Thanks for the comments. I think I'll be out taking some photos of different sky scenes to pick up a few more to chose from. This was more-or-less just a test to see if I could make it work. Thanks for the comments.
Bill
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Hello All,
I saw a couple photos in MR that got me wondering how good a job I could do with Paint Shop Pro on modifying the sky in a model railroad photo. In the two attachments you can see the original photo shot on my layout and the modified photo. I created a mask for the sky and masked...
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I run all 6 axle locos and I'm saying the Athearn 6 axle locos are prone to derailing. In my experience the Kato and Atlas 6 axle locos are very much less likely to derail. I believe the Athearn units are very suceptible to any irregularity in the track, where other brands seem to be more...
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After you hit Post Reply, look down below under Manage Attachments.
Bill
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The struggles you are talking about here have caused me to stop buying Athearn locomotives. Too many derailments for me. Curves have been trouble as well as picking points on many switches. To me it just was not worth all the pain to get the locos to run right. Now they sit in the yard and...
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I'm waiting for your next post.
Bill
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The voltmeter is the only real way to make sure you don't over-voltage those bulbs and cause yourself some early bulb replacement work.
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I start out with 1 K Ohm and work down to a lower value using a voltmeter across the bulb. I usually try to shoot for just under 1.5 volts across the bulb when the loco is moving. Seems like different decoders require slightly different resistor values.
Bill
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I never had much luck thinning acrylic paint with rubbing alcohol. I seem to have better luck with just plain water. I tried denatured alcohol too, but it seeked to attack the paint on the cars so I discontinued that experiment.
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